need oil help. PLEASE HURRY
- Thread starter Stealth5
- Start date
RTM!
15 wieght won't hurt the motor. It would be a pain if you were in the great white north, but Taxus winter shouldn't be cold enough to cause hard starting. Page 8-9 of the 2003 owner's manual states 5W-30 or 10W-30 as the recommended viscosity for the Protege in most temperature ranges. Jim
15 wieght won't hurt the motor. It would be a pain if you were in the great white north, but Taxus winter shouldn't be cold enough to cause hard starting. Page 8-9 of the 2003 owner's manual states 5W-30 or 10W-30 as the recommended viscosity for the Protege in most temperature ranges. Jim
gaZOOM-ZOOM
Member
Why? #1 it costs power.Don said:
#2 loses efficiency. #3 old school :bs: .#4 Harder on the engine. 5w-30 to 10w-30 is all that is needed. Second hand guessing the engine designer is not neccessary. The engine was not designed to pump mohlasis. I personally run mobil 1 5w30 and 3.25 qts, and get 38-40mpg week in week out. Hard to argue with the numbers. Zoom-Zoom.
gaZOOM-ZOOM said:
It's not "second guessing the engine manufacturer" - It's just disagreeing with the federal government.
If you check the recommended oil to use in a Mazda sold anywhere else in the world (owners manual, or the underhood sticker) EXCEPT for north America and the good ole USA, you'll find 20/W-50 is what MAZDA recommends. Our government just purports to know more about what's good for the car than the manufacturer does . . .
We have members on MiataForum from Australia, New Zealand, Japan and Europe and they ALL have much different lubricant recommendations for their cars than what my USA book says.
I've put near 200K on half a dozen different cars with nary one which required any engine work, and I'll stick with what works for me, and not what our government tells me is most eco-friendly.
Don
MikeBlueP5
Member
- :
- 2K2 Protege 5 (Sold) now 08 UrbanRunner
I use mobil 1 10w30, not just because its whats recommended, I used this in my 94 ford ranger, it now has accumulated to about 124K Very Very abused miles, trust me I was 15 when I got it, went through 2 clutches, and to this day it still runs like it just rolled off the showroom, other than the timing cover leaking a tad, not even dripping. Doesnt smoke or anything. hardly any oil usage between changes. Its been a good little truck. So since I had good luck with it, I figured what the hell might as well run what I know works. Along with amoco fuels. To all their own. I know other people at the machine shop I work at tell their stories of the oil they use too. Sorry for the novel.
Mike
Mike
gaZOOM-ZOOM
Member
:bs: :bs: The federal government? What works for you is fine, however, do more research into why thinner oils are used before making judgement against something, And I will say that I still stand by what I stated. Why is it you believe that the federal government "Knows what good"?,How many millions of dollars have been spent by oil, engine,vehicle manufactures to increase efficiency with out sacrificing anything and actually increasing component life? A simple test for you is to dyno checking emmisions, torque and horsepower. I will gaurantee you your choice is worse than you have imagined. Zoom-ZoomDon said:
It's not "second guessing the engine manufacturer" - It's just disagreeing with the federal government.
If you check the recommended oil to use in a Mazda sold anywhere else in the world (owners manual, or the underhood sticker) EXCEPT for north America and the good ole USA, you'll find 20/W-50 is what MAZDA recommends. Our government just purports to know more about what's good for the car than the manufacturer does . . .
We have members on MiataForum from Australia, New Zealand, Japan and Europe and they ALL have much different lubricant recommendations for their cars than what my USA book says.
I've put near 200K on half a dozen different cars with nary one which required any engine work, and I'll stick with what works for me, and not what our government tells me is most eco-friendly.
Don
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Old School
I've been using Mobil1 for years. My old '92 Saturn called for 5W-30 in the owner's manual. I ran this for several years and after the motor had 50,000 miles on it, I switched to 10W-30 Mobil1. After 100,000, I put 15W-50 to see if it had any effect on oil consumption. It didn't as the motor still was using a quart in 5,000 miles. It also didn't alter the fuel consumption which stayed at 37 mpg on the highway. Multiviscosity oil is formulated to alter it's viscosity as the engine temperature changes, getting thicker as the temperature rises to maintain viscosity. I checked Mobil's web site and they too recommend 10W-30 or 5W-30 for the P5. Jim
I've been using Mobil1 for years. My old '92 Saturn called for 5W-30 in the owner's manual. I ran this for several years and after the motor had 50,000 miles on it, I switched to 10W-30 Mobil1. After 100,000, I put 15W-50 to see if it had any effect on oil consumption. It didn't as the motor still was using a quart in 5,000 miles. It also didn't alter the fuel consumption which stayed at 37 mpg on the highway. Multiviscosity oil is formulated to alter it's viscosity as the engine temperature changes, getting thicker as the temperature rises to maintain viscosity. I checked Mobil's web site and they too recommend 10W-30 or 5W-30 for the P5. Jim
gaZOOM-ZOOM
Member
Re: Hang on a sec.
Cooling loss? Or any other problems you may suspect? between the "low mark and the "full mark is the "normal" or operation range. did you check the oilwhen the car was brand new? I will gaurantee you it was approx. 1/4" below the "full" mark, as for your statement of "low" on oil. not. How do I know where the factory puts the oil level?
Jim Frye said:
Cooling loss? Or any other problems you may suspect? between the "low mark and the "full mark is the "normal" or operation range. did you check the oilwhen the car was brand new? I will gaurantee you it was approx. 1/4" below the "full" mark, as for your statement of "low" on oil. not. How do I know where the factory puts the oil level? Re: Re: Hang on a sec.
I did check the oil level on my P5 when I took delivery and it was at the full mark. Yes, there is a range on the dipstick and it usually reflects one quart. When I change the oil and put in the specified amount, it always registers at the full mark after running the engine and then letting all of the oil drain back into crankcase.
So, does running the engine on 3.25 quarts of oil reduce the "load" on the motor and give you better fuel mileage? The reason I ask is that "38-40 mpg" is quite a lot more than what most folks are reporting here for the P5.
Engine oil flowing through the motor does most of the cooling of the cylinder and head. The cooling system then extracts that heat from the oil. More oil means more cooling capacity of that oil since there's more of it flowing in the oil system. That's why most racing oil pans have larger capacities. Granted, a half quart may not seem like much, but it's nearly 14% of the total oil supply for the motor. For that reason, I never let the engine go that low on oil, especially in the summer.gaZOOM-ZOOM said:
I did check the oil level on my P5 when I took delivery and it was at the full mark. Yes, there is a range on the dipstick and it usually reflects one quart. When I change the oil and put in the specified amount, it always registers at the full mark after running the engine and then letting all of the oil drain back into crankcase.
So, does running the engine on 3.25 quarts of oil reduce the "load" on the motor and give you better fuel mileage? The reason I ask is that "38-40 mpg" is quite a lot more than what most folks are reporting here for the P5.
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syn_lube_nut
Member
Oh boy! HEre we go again..allot of people who think they know anything about oil responding! Either listen to DOn or go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and go to the posting board section and do a search about your question.
For ONE, the 'W' does NOT stand for WEIGHT! It stands for WINTER! In OTW, it stands to describe the winter viscosity. For instance, let's use Mobil 1's 0W-40 (what I run as I think its the best OTC oil and tests back it up) as an example. As one can see the '0' is the winter viscosity (actually the viscosity anytime the oil is not hot, or at temp.) and the '40' is the viscosity once its warm.
You can run Mobil 1 0w-40 w/out ANY probs. In fact, go to www.mobil1.com and read the stats about the 0w-40 and youll see that its actually recommended in cars that call for 5W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30 and I think 20W-50 as well. This oil has been in use all around the world (mostly Europe and Australia) for years and does awesome in drain tests. But, you must decide on what oi fits YOUR needs and to do so you must investigate what oils do. The above site is an awesoem place to start-and good luck!
For ONE, the 'W' does NOT stand for WEIGHT! It stands for WINTER! In OTW, it stands to describe the winter viscosity. For instance, let's use Mobil 1's 0W-40 (what I run as I think its the best OTC oil and tests back it up) as an example. As one can see the '0' is the winter viscosity (actually the viscosity anytime the oil is not hot, or at temp.) and the '40' is the viscosity once its warm.
You can run Mobil 1 0w-40 w/out ANY probs. In fact, go to www.mobil1.com and read the stats about the 0w-40 and youll see that its actually recommended in cars that call for 5W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30 and I think 20W-50 as well. This oil has been in use all around the world (mostly Europe and Australia) for years and does awesome in drain tests. But, you must decide on what oi fits YOUR needs and to do so you must investigate what oils do. The above site is an awesoem place to start-and good luck!
gaZOOM-ZOOM
Member
Re: Re: Re: Hang on a sec.
:bs: :bs: What in the? "engine oil does most of the cooling of the cylinder and head". Oil is used to lubricate. will transfer some heat as well, cooling system bears the brunt of the cooling, to cool the cylinder head and it's components several things happen, as the engine is running heat from the combustion process is transfered thru the valve seats, thru the wall of the cylinder head chamber and the wall of the cylinder to the "Cooling system". there is no oil flowing on the back side of the cylinder wall. Yes you are partially right in the statement oil is used for cooling, does it do the majority? Yes it is very important, is it necessary to run the crankshaft counterweights running thru it? No. Keeping as much oil as possible off of the rotating assembly is paramount for efficiency. adds to power, adds to fuel mileage, am I running it to low? not low at all. It's approx. You also have to realize that at that kind of fuel mileage that we don't rev the piss out of it. If there were 2qts or less and high sustained rpm's, high g corner loads where the oilpump pickup may be uncovered, That would be the time for concern. As for overheating the oil. Not gonna happen as I'm running it. Even with petroleum base oil. Zoom-ZoomJim Frye said:
gaZOOM-ZOOM
Member
I don't see were a reference to weight as being the W in the viscosity in this post.syn_lube_nut said:
syn_lube_nut
Member
uh...uh...yeah....right, i know! I was just keeping y'all on your toes..
! j/k Since this has been pointed out to me now, i will go crawl back into my hole-but, just in case anyone was thinkning that the 'W' means weight-well, now ya know. and knowing half the battle-G.I. Joe! A re...uuhh.....nevermind.....Im goin' back into the hole now (echoing sound).
! j/k Since this has been pointed out to me now, i will go crawl back into my hole-but, just in case anyone was thinkning that the 'W' means weight-well, now ya know. and knowing half the battle-G.I. Joe! A re...uuhh.....nevermind.....Im goin' back into the hole now (echoing sound).
