Im sorry to bug everyone but i feel weird asking for help my name is robert and im from los angeles i just purchased this car because my ******* s2000 was wrecked so i needed something quick... i got a great deal on my msp its a micah blue color in only had 25000 miles and i got the car for 10,000 out the dealer at norm reeves honda in cerritos california. well since then i have put on about two thousand miles, i have upgraded to a CAI by INjen powerder coated black i have purchased air/fuel ration guages and boost guage but have yet to install made by actecniques. also i have purchased a greddy profec boost controller II but still my car sometimes lag and i cant understand? I havent put anything on to the car yet! but i want to put a greddy Blow off Valve type rs that i have purchased aswell do you think this will help me gain horsepower? Also if anybody wants to sell oem fog lights that go with this car let me know you can contact me at depeche185@yahoo.com. sorry also im bought a greddy turbo timer to go with all this stuff.. i would appreciate some feedback is it worth the money im putting into the car and will i get results or is it a joke? Or what are other mods that i can do to gain horsepower without going over 500 dollars at a time..? THanks everyone would appreciate the help!
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Need help with my msp please someone help me?
- Thread starter Rnajera
- Start date
congrats on the purchase of your msp and welcome to the forum. there is a mazda california forum also, moccforums.com . for hp try getting a midpipe, that will help to free up some of the exhaust and it will give you a noticable increase in power.
cboe's_mp5
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 3
Welcome To The Mazda Forum
silverspeed03
Boost Junky
- :
- 2008 MS3
welcome!
I don't know how you guys experience lag with our turbos. I actually hate the damn thing. It spools insanely fast, I want something that does have some lag. To answer the original question buy a midpipe w/ a high flow cat since you are in california. Then get the dsm afc, it will get rid of the hesitation. And lastly get a front mount or new side mount. Heatsoak will own you with the stock intercooler.
TX Speed Demon
Member
You can lessen the hesitation by getting proper bolt ons, but really some sort of EMS will get rid of it the easiest. The problem is an overly rich air/fuel ratio. Proper bolt ones and added boost will help hide it, but an EMS system will fix it. If you can, save up and get a programmable EMS system if you want to tune yourself, or a Unichip if you want plug and play.
If you want to go the Bolt on Route get this:
First $500:
Exhaust $100-900 depending if you buy new/used/part/full system - Midpipe that replaces the catalitic converter. I bought a used Apex 2.5" catless down/midpipe one for $150 and love it.
New Vac lines ($10) - replace all your old vac lines as the stock lines in an MSP get very brittle and crack.
Front Motor Mount ($90) - Awr sells an upgrade for your front motor mount which help eliminate wheel hop ad transfer more power to the ground. The higher the dourometer, the more it will cause you car to vibrate. Get the 70 durometer ones if you don't want increased vibrations
----
Next $500:
New fluids and tune up for your ride. Unless you know the previous owner it would be a good idea to replace all the fluids. Get some redline transmission fluid and at least check the condition of all the others
---
Next $500
Upgraded intercooler. If you plan to run 10+ psi or just really like the look, get a FMIC. They run $900-1200 new and will make a big difference in your hesitation issues, especially in hot weather. You can find a used one for sale, or just get a core and build your own pipes for under your $500 limit.
If you want to appear more stock looking, or don't plan on raising the boost, get a set of Hardpipes and an upgraded SMIC. YOu can probably find this combo for sale here too, not sure on total costs.
Manual Boost Controller ($50)
----
At this point combined with your CAI you should be good to run 8-10 psi with little to no problems. I've been running 8-11 psi for about a year with the above modifications. The only thing that's gone wrong with my car is I think I have broken the stock rear motor mount with that extra power.
This will definatly make it faster than a stock S2000.
Then the rest is up to you. You can either spend your next $500 on a better boost controller that you can adjust boost by rpm or gear, or save it for an EMS system. Personally I'd get the EMS system. I've ridden in an MSP with identicle mods to mine but he had the Unichip. There was a night and day differance in power (of course he's running 2lbs more boost too) but his power was constant throughout the powerband while mine tends to hit a flat spot between 5300-6000 rpms. I'm saving for it now.
If you want to go the Bolt on Route get this:
First $500:
Exhaust $100-900 depending if you buy new/used/part/full system - Midpipe that replaces the catalitic converter. I bought a used Apex 2.5" catless down/midpipe one for $150 and love it.
New Vac lines ($10) - replace all your old vac lines as the stock lines in an MSP get very brittle and crack.
Front Motor Mount ($90) - Awr sells an upgrade for your front motor mount which help eliminate wheel hop ad transfer more power to the ground. The higher the dourometer, the more it will cause you car to vibrate. Get the 70 durometer ones if you don't want increased vibrations
----
Next $500:
New fluids and tune up for your ride. Unless you know the previous owner it would be a good idea to replace all the fluids. Get some redline transmission fluid and at least check the condition of all the others
---
Next $500
Upgraded intercooler. If you plan to run 10+ psi or just really like the look, get a FMIC. They run $900-1200 new and will make a big difference in your hesitation issues, especially in hot weather. You can find a used one for sale, or just get a core and build your own pipes for under your $500 limit.
If you want to appear more stock looking, or don't plan on raising the boost, get a set of Hardpipes and an upgraded SMIC. YOu can probably find this combo for sale here too, not sure on total costs.
Manual Boost Controller ($50)
----
At this point combined with your CAI you should be good to run 8-10 psi with little to no problems. I've been running 8-11 psi for about a year with the above modifications. The only thing that's gone wrong with my car is I think I have broken the stock rear motor mount with that extra power.
This will definatly make it faster than a stock S2000.
Then the rest is up to you. You can either spend your next $500 on a better boost controller that you can adjust boost by rpm or gear, or save it for an EMS system. Personally I'd get the EMS system. I've ridden in an MSP with identicle mods to mine but he had the Unichip. There was a night and day differance in power (of course he's running 2lbs more boost too) but his power was constant throughout the powerband while mine tends to hit a flat spot between 5300-6000 rpms. I'm saving for it now.
our turbos aren't laggy! I'm fully spooled by 2700 to 8.5 psi.. and it reaches the proper boost level as soon as I'm on the gas over that rpm range. It's way too easy to spool IMO.
1st) Midpipe / full exhaust if you can find one used & decent price. If your HP goals are moderate, go with a 2.5". I should have done that. If you want to build a beast, 3".
2nd) Cold Air. Let it breathe better. Or intercooler. Heat soak is a b**** on the msp.
3rd) a good EBC. something that lets you control "gain" - or how fast it lets the turbo spool. Ideally something with a gauge as well. Maybe the turbosmart EBC. very cool unit. But beware if you go much beyond 9-9.5 psi without management or internals - our rods are weak and stock ecu maps don't allow for much beyond 9psi. Personally I won't go above 8.5 psi, and peak occasionally to 9. Have fun! you won't find a much better handling FWD car out there in stock form.
1st) Midpipe / full exhaust if you can find one used & decent price. If your HP goals are moderate, go with a 2.5". I should have done that. If you want to build a beast, 3".
2nd) Cold Air. Let it breathe better. Or intercooler. Heat soak is a b**** on the msp.
3rd) a good EBC. something that lets you control "gain" - or how fast it lets the turbo spool. Ideally something with a gauge as well. Maybe the turbosmart EBC. very cool unit. But beware if you go much beyond 9-9.5 psi without management or internals - our rods are weak and stock ecu maps don't allow for much beyond 9psi. Personally I won't go above 8.5 psi, and peak occasionally to 9. Have fun! you won't find a much better handling FWD car out there in stock form.
Turbo timer is kind of a waste unless you like to push the car hard and immediately park it and turn it off. I only use mine when I autocross.
The Greddy EBC was a pretty good purchase, but don't install it yet until you have some engine management. My opinion of course.
I can tell you the best mod you can get for under $500 is the Airflow Logistics AFC sold by DSMConvert or at www.airflowlogistics.com. I got mine used for $280 and it was the best mod I have done so far.
You could try and get a custom s-pipe-back exhaust built for under $500, which would greatly improve the performance of the turbo. I feel my car being choked out by the restrictive exhaust. Down-pipe back corksport is $399, but you won't even come close to passing emissions with that. The additional s-pipe and j-pipe (to form the full downpipe) is an extra $250 if I remember correctly.
The Greddy EBC was a pretty good purchase, but don't install it yet until you have some engine management. My opinion of course.
I can tell you the best mod you can get for under $500 is the Airflow Logistics AFC sold by DSMConvert or at www.airflowlogistics.com. I got mine used for $280 and it was the best mod I have done so far.
You could try and get a custom s-pipe-back exhaust built for under $500, which would greatly improve the performance of the turbo. I feel my car being choked out by the restrictive exhaust. Down-pipe back corksport is $399, but you won't even come close to passing emissions with that. The additional s-pipe and j-pipe (to form the full downpipe) is an extra $250 if I remember correctly.
- :
- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
Robert, come out to the International AllStars Car & Bike night!
As for your mods, an exhaust would probably be a good first power mod. Our downpipes consist of an S-pipe leading from the turbo to a J-pipe that leads to the rest of the exhaust. Even a J-pipe back exhaust from 2.5" - 3.0" will give you alot of power. this will probably raise your overall psi a little as there is less back pressure for the turbo to spin against.
i agree with the other guys, get some kind of engine management (DSM's AFC, Unichip, MPI, Microtech, eManage) so that timing, boost and air/fuel can be controlled to increase power reliabily. too many people blowing their motors by increasing boost too much without minding the other factors.
the blow off valve, you can run a dual bpv/bov system, where you keep your stock bpv and open vent your greddy rs bov. to mount that greddy rs bov, you will require some hardpipes, if you don't have that them.
This month's Car & Bike Night will be on Thursday, November 17, starting at 7pm and hosted by Team Allstars. It's only THE place to be for the finest local cars and bikes:
As for your mods, an exhaust would probably be a good first power mod. Our downpipes consist of an S-pipe leading from the turbo to a J-pipe that leads to the rest of the exhaust. Even a J-pipe back exhaust from 2.5" - 3.0" will give you alot of power. this will probably raise your overall psi a little as there is less back pressure for the turbo to spin against.
i agree with the other guys, get some kind of engine management (DSM's AFC, Unichip, MPI, Microtech, eManage) so that timing, boost and air/fuel can be controlled to increase power reliabily. too many people blowing their motors by increasing boost too much without minding the other factors.
the blow off valve, you can run a dual bpv/bov system, where you keep your stock bpv and open vent your greddy rs bov. to mount that greddy rs bov, you will require some hardpipes, if you don't have that them.
TX Speed Demon
Member
Apex
Mental Addiction
corksport
Check the for sale section for vendors and non vendors.
Mental Addiction
corksport
Check the for sale section for vendors and non vendors.
I don't know if this is the same problem but I have a hesitation around 4500-5000rpm.
When I step on it in this range the car will buck (jolt back and forth) and you will hear a whinning noise which I think is the turbo spooling but the power is not there. If I plant me foot it will smoothen out and then I will have normal acceleration to 6500 rpm. If I feather the pedal through this range it is usually fine but I occassionally feel some hesitation.
Is this an extremeley rich condition or a leak somewhere? Please help. Thanks.
Mods:
Injen SRI, mid-pipe, FMIC with recirculating BOV.
When I step on it in this range the car will buck (jolt back and forth) and you will hear a whinning noise which I think is the turbo spooling but the power is not there. If I plant me foot it will smoothen out and then I will have normal acceleration to 6500 rpm. If I feather the pedal through this range it is usually fine but I occassionally feel some hesitation.
Is this an extremeley rich condition or a leak somewhere? Please help. Thanks.
Mods:
Injen SRI, mid-pipe, FMIC with recirculating BOV.
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