Need Help Shopping
- Thread starter EvilMSP
- Start date
for componets up front i'd try and stick with a solid 6.5" this will alllow you to get that thing playing as low as possible the 6.5 will play lower then the 5.25. in your case i'd propably just stick with a 5 channel amp as well. and u shouldn't have any complaints over the dls amp. they seem to be doing a good job of putting out quality stuff.
chuyler1 said:
nowhere. i have never seen them anywhere but through authorized sources.
http://www.dls-america.com/Dealers.htm
scott bawalda will only sell to you if you don't have a dealer within a reasonable distance (50 miles away), otherwise to purchase from him you have to e-mail him with what you want, who your local dealer is, and why you would rather buy from scott. they are VERY strict about there sales policies, and scott told me he got in some trouble for it before, so now he does everything by the book
sndsgood said:
you definitely want the front speakers to play as low as possible, for what you need. scott's iridiums are high passed at 33 hz
but that is what he needs for his SQ setup. other rides he has setup or helped setup, he leaves a gap between the mid-bass and subs. say low pass the sub at 50 hz and high pass the mid-bass at 80-100 hz. cabin gain will take care of the rest, and proper adjustement of the x-overs will blend the mid-bass and sub perfectly(headbang)As of right now it sounds like I would do this...
Nakami CD-400 (There is actually a store 50 miles from me, so I'll go check it out)
Adire Koda Components
DLS CA-50
Adire Koda 10" (eventually)
Those main 3 add up to 1k so that hits my target pretty well.
For now I chose the Koda Components because my friend was able to listen to them and described them to me. They sound like what I am looking for.
Nakami CD-400 (There is actually a store 50 miles from me, so I'll go check it out)
Adire Koda Components
DLS CA-50
Adire Koda 10" (eventually)
Those main 3 add up to 1k so that hits my target pretty well.
For now I chose the Koda Components because my friend was able to listen to them and described them to me. They sound like what I am looking for.
WTF, they have a dealer in Alaska but not a single one in New England?got wake? said:nowhere. i have never seen them anywhere but through authorized sources.
http://www.dls-america.com/Dealers.htm
scott bawalda will only sell to you if you don't have a dealer within a reasonable distance (50 miles away), otherwise to purchase from him you have to e-mail him with what you want, who your local dealer is, and why you would rather buy from scott. they are VERY strict about there sales policies, and scott told me he got in some trouble for it before, so now he does everything by the book
All I really want now is a price chart of the different products.
Yeah I'm not sure what I'm gonna do in terms of installing them. And wow 3 layers of mat is so much lol. That's a lot of moneygot wake? said:koda components have great mid-bass and a nice sounding tweeter from what everyone has said. prepare to dynamat your doors, though
EvilMSP said:Yeah I'm not sure what I'm gonna do in terms of installing them. And wow 3 layers of mat is so much lol. That's a lot of money
you don't *need* 3 layers, but i'd do 2 for the kodas.
[font=Verdana, Arial]raam@raamaudio.com
that the e-mail of rick from raamaudio. here's the website. ask for the retrodrive discount. i paid $102.36 for a roll shipped to FL from CA, and shipping was almost $24, so you don't have to worry about quite that much. if you wanna save some money, he's got some B-stock rolls that are anywhere from 45-50 mils thick as apposed to the 60 of regular raamat60 that he is selling for $59 each plus shipping.
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Haha yes that indeed is a massive amount of matting. If my car was audio only that would be good 
Im planning out the cost and timing of all this stuff right now. For now I'll probably just dyno mat the door once and set the koda's in there. Ill wait til I can actually hear/play with the Nak HU. But the amp/sub concearns me. I don't like waisting money on parts that wont matter in the long run. What I mean is I have a picture in my head of what I want my car to be, and i'd rather go directly to that image then spend time messing around.
My car will eventually have 2 racing buckets upfront (probably Sparco SPeeds but I need to sit in a bunch before I decide). I would have the amp under the passenger seat to cut down on wire distances and I would rather have no clutter in the trunk. That is why I ripped that pos kenwood enclosure out long ago. And I've been toying with the idea of taking out the rear bench assemble and having matching buckets in the rear. I've been told that that assembly must weight somewhere from 100-150 lbs so racing buckets would = awsomeness. And I am pretty sure I'd have enough room inbetween them to place the Koda 10" in a custom box so they blended nicely.
So I am trying to see what I want to do here Oh also I thought of installing the amp in or under the glovebox (need to measure). Would it be a bad idea to put it inside the glovebox if I can?
Thanks for reading this needlessly long post lol. Just wondering what people think of my plans/ideas.
Im planning out the cost and timing of all this stuff right now. For now I'll probably just dyno mat the door once and set the koda's in there. Ill wait til I can actually hear/play with the Nak HU. But the amp/sub concearns me. I don't like waisting money on parts that wont matter in the long run. What I mean is I have a picture in my head of what I want my car to be, and i'd rather go directly to that image then spend time messing around.
My car will eventually have 2 racing buckets upfront (probably Sparco SPeeds but I need to sit in a bunch before I decide). I would have the amp under the passenger seat to cut down on wire distances and I would rather have no clutter in the trunk. That is why I ripped that pos kenwood enclosure out long ago. And I've been toying with the idea of taking out the rear bench assemble and having matching buckets in the rear. I've been told that that assembly must weight somewhere from 100-150 lbs so racing buckets would = awsomeness
. And I am pretty sure I'd have enough room inbetween them to place the Koda 10" in a custom box so they blended nicely.So I am trying to see what I want to do here
Oh also I thought of installing the amp in or under the glovebox (need to measure). Would it be a bad idea to put it inside the glovebox if I can?Thanks for reading this needlessly long post lol. Just wondering what people think of my plans/ideas.
that must be one big glovebox. if it did fit you'd just have to take care of heat issues.
as for the doors i seriously would suggest 2-3 laers. dont nessicarily have to do 3 layers on the door completley but basically the area behind the door on the outter door skin should have a couple of layers. i used a 6.5 with only 50 watts and 1 layer of dynamate on the exterior skin and i still had to adjust the volume down on them because the outer door skin rattled so much and that rattle will kill your midbass big time sound damping sheets are worth their money. and rammatt and a few other places out there have stuff for way less then dynamat. i used partsexpress.com and for around 300$ i got 300+ sq. ft. of sound damping, enough to cover my car with 2-3 layers. bit overkill for most people but its nice to get out of the car, shut the door and not be able to tell the system is even on.
as for the doors i seriously would suggest 2-3 laers. dont nessicarily have to do 3 layers on the door completley but basically the area behind the door on the outter door skin should have a couple of layers. i used a 6.5 with only 50 watts and 1 layer of dynamate on the exterior skin and i still had to adjust the volume down on them because the outer door skin rattled so much and that rattle will kill your midbass big time sound damping sheets are worth their money. and rammatt and a few other places out there have stuff for way less then dynamat. i used partsexpress.com and for around 300$ i got 300+ sq. ft. of sound damping, enough to cover my car with 2-3 layers. bit overkill for most people but its nice to get out of the car, shut the door and not be able to tell the system is even on.
Heh that sounds very cool.
So when you take the door apart there are 2 main metal sections i take it. So you placed a few layers on the outer layer, but the middle layer back on the door and then coated that with mat also? Just want to make sure cause this will be the biggest stereo i've done in a car so far. Want to make sure I do it right.
So when you take the door apart there are 2 main metal sections i take it. So you placed a few layers on the outer layer, but the middle layer back on the door and then coated that with mat also? Just want to make sure cause this will be the biggest stereo i've done in a car so far. Want to make sure I do it right.
The outer skin is the backside fo the metal that you see when you look at the side of your car. The inner part is kinda a skeleton framework thing where your windowmotors and such are mounted. THing is there's alot of open gaps and such there to begin with, and it's covered with crinkly plastic. If you pullout the plastic, and cover the whole thing so that it's just a solid wall, it kind of seals everything off, and essentially turns your door into a "box" a large one for your midbass speakers. I posted osme pics back on page3 of this thread, but let's see...
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?t=67844&highlight=doors+edead In hindsight, the paint-on really didn't add much convenience, cost more money, and really just made things kinda messy. with a little bit of patiece, and careful trimming and folding/peeling, etc it's entirelypossible to get good coverage backthere with standard style deadening
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?t=67844&highlight=doors+edead In hindsight, the paint-on really didn't add much convenience, cost more money, and really just made things kinda messy. with a little bit of patiece, and careful trimming and folding/peeling, etc it's entirelypossible to get good coverage backthere with standard style deadening
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correct. However seeing as it' such a large space, pressure changes aren't all that significant, so it's not absolutely vital that every little nook and cranny gets capped off. Infact you'll need to leave a hole of some sort for your doorlatch pushrod. I'm Actually currently attempting to figure out what to do to keep my Windowseals from flapping, it's kind of annoying.
Yeah I know what you mean I just wanted to get the general "box" idea right before I start planning things out.
And sheesh your windowseals flap that is HILARIOUS lol . And I haven't taken the door apart yet obviously but I imagine you would just need to cap off that area, may be more trouble than its worth.
And sheesh your windowseals flap that is HILARIOUS lol . And I haven't taken the door apart yet obviously but I imagine you would just need to cap off that area, may be more trouble than its worth.
