Need a few questions answered Nascop5's Mazda Protege5 Build

Obviously there are two ways of improving fuel economy, higher gearing to allow for lower revs and running a higher quality fuel, the ECU allows me to run a higher quality fuel. Is there a way to say add a sixth gear or replace my 5th so I can get amazing fuel economy? I like how its responsive but I don't want it to be that responsive in 5th I want fuel economy for road trips. So if it would be possible to do either of those that would be outstanding. Yes I will be dumping some money into this car. I plan on keeping it as long as I can or need to.
 
I know they don't keep the coils compressed, I was talking about the part of the suspension they connect to. There is a cap that keeps the suspension compressed back by two nuts at the top. I have seen a few strut tower bars on ebay for like 20$... Are these something I should be staying away from? I don't feel like having it snap mid corkscrew at mazda speedway.

You get what you pay for.

Obviously there are two ways of improving fuel economy, higher gearing to allow for lower revs and running a higher quality fuel, the ECU allows me to run a higher quality fuel. Is there a way to say add a sixth gear or replace my 5th so I can get amazing fuel economy? I like how its responsive but I don't want it to be that responsive in 5th I want fuel economy for road trips. So if it would be possible to do either of those that would be outstanding. Yes I will be dumping some money into this car. I plan on keeping it as long as I can or need to.

You don't get to, you have to run higher octane fuel, otherwise you may see misfiring when you step on it.

You can put a 626 5th gear in place of the 5th gear in your current transmission.
 
Is there a build guide which I can follow to turbo the FS in my car? I'm not that big of a fan of turbo's simply because of the fact its more parts to make sure aren't about to blow up and as they stand they are already pretty unreliable.
 
Is there a build guide which I can follow to turbo the FS in my car? I'm not that big of a fan of turbo's simply because of the fact its more parts to make sure aren't about to blow up and as they stand they are already pretty unreliable.

The guide is on the forum, google it.

Turbo-charging a car is the best performance upgrade you can do before replacing the engine... If you do it right, it can be reliable enough for a daily driver. The BB turbos the MSPs came with are even more reliable than you think, any failure is more than likely caused by poor maintenance.
 
Do you have any recommendations for tires? I'm getting those replaced quite soon as the one's on my car don't match at any corner. I currently Have two direza's one regular Dunlop and a Nexen N2000 I've read good things about the 2000 but they don't make them anymore unfortunately. They are the stock 195/50R16's. I've been told that 215/45's also fit on the car decently. I obviously want to get 215's for the added performance benefit. I also have discovered the car is quite shaky at just above 100mph. Is that due to the tire imbalance or is the car that unstable at that speed, the only other time I have gone that fast was in an F10 M5 and those are comfortable up to 155.
 
Also I have a relatively solid idea as what I plan on doing to my car. MZR 2.3 DISI swap(Chipped to 350) with the transmission. New struts all the way around, strut tower bar, Coilovers, Carbon Fiber hood front and rear bumpers, Carbon fiber side skirts. Recaro RS7 seats, Digital dash cluster with tons of information about performance. MS3 Rims with the respective tires and red under glow when the car is parked, and faint illumination in the foot wells of the car all red. What do you think of my soon to be started build? I won't go out and replace the part if its still functioning. This will be a slow build, when my engine or transmission has major issues in goes the MZR and so on and so forth. Thank you for your help so far and I hope you enjoy my build when it starts.
 
Do you have any recommendations for tires? I'm getting those replaced quite soon as the one's on my car don't match at any corner. I currently Have two direza's one regular Dunlop and a Nexen N2000 I've read good things about the 2000 but they don't make them anymore unfortunately. They are the stock 195/50R16's. I've been told that 215/45's also fit on the car decently. I obviously want to get 215's for the added performance benefit. I also have discovered the car is quite shaky at just above 100mph. Is that due to the tire imbalance or is the car that unstable at that speed, the only other time I have gone that fast was in an F10 M5 and those are comfortable up to 155.

Wheel balancers are only capable of a certain simulated realistic speed. Assuming you have the stock rims for your car and they are not new, you will feel more vibration in the steering wheel with speed, as I will safely assume that your rims are not in new condition. If you want to try to improve it, clean your rims off any dirt or grime or get brand new rims.

Typically people investigate wheel vibrations because it is annoying for prolonged periods of time. Unless you are tracking your car, you have no reason to go that fast, and don't see why you are worried about it. If you are trying to impress us with how fast you have been in these cars on the streets or which other cars you drove fast, then I will ask you to stop it, as people like you increase everybody else's insurance rates and give a bad name to our cars.
 
No wasn't trying to impress you with how fast I've gone, when I went to 100 I was at Mazda speedway Laguna Seca coming out of the corkscrew and final three turns I kept a lot of speed and saw that starting at 90 it gets shaky and at 110 its unsafe. The M5 I was witnessing a test of my uncle's new car when I saw him in Dortmund, Germany this last summer, I hate people who raise my insurance too I try not to contribute to it. Yes I am planning on tracking my car, and my rims are actually in really good condition no curb rash or anything of the sort, The wheels were cleaned before taking off for Monterrey back in San Jose so I can imagine they collected a bit of dirt.
 
Also about your FSZE is the JDM FSZE naturally aspirated or turbo charged? Everywhere I have read people confuse the FSDET and FSZE becuase they produce the exact same amount of power and I can't get a solid answer.
 
Also about your FSZE is the JDM FSZE naturally aspirated or turbo charged? Everywhere I have read people confuse the FSDET and FSZE becuase they produce the exact same amount of power and I can't get a solid answer.

Both make the same power, FS-DET is the same engine you have with a turbo, FS-ZE is the Japanese N/A engine.
 
Also about your FSZE is the JDM FSZE naturally aspirated or turbo charged? Everywhere I have read people confuse the FSDET and FSZE becuase they produce the exact same amount of power and I can't get a solid answer.

Like the Dill already mentioned, it's N/A. It's just an FSDE with higher compression pistons, more aggressive cams for higher RPM, and a slightly different intake. The 170hp is only fully attainable with the JDM ECU, or a custom reflash. The gains are pretty insignificant with the P5 intake and ECU.

I noticed a very slight increase in high RPM power, that's it.
 
So what you are saying is that if I want that kind of power I need to get the JDM FSZE A flash isn't going to get it done for me? If that's the case I think I'll go that route and then turbo it.
 
So what you are saying is that if I want that kind of power I need to get the JDM FSZE A flash isn't going to get it done for me? If that's the case I think I'll go that route and then turbo it.

You'll be able to get that kind of power with the fsde, but it's going to take a lot more work/money than it's worth imo. The only "custom reflash" out there is the mp3 reflash which wont get you the kind of gains you're looking for. The main reason you don't see many fsze swaps is because the ECU is OBD1 not OBD2 like the fsde. If you're looking for reliability/decent power just turbo a built fsde and add a piggy back.
 
So what you are saying is that if I want that kind of power I need to get the JDM FSZE A flash isn't going to get it done for me? If that's the case I think I'll go that route and then turbo it.

Effective compression ratio is a lot more efficient if you have turbo pressure over higher piston compression. If you go fs ze and turbo you wont have the same potential gains as an fsdet. We all live in the same world where murphies laws exists.
 
So is the best way I can get this done to, piece a turbo kit together myself, get the turbo and ECU and everything else required from a MSP, or to just engine swap the whole thing. I know the transmission is capable of handling ~300hp, I'm planning on swapping the 5th gear from an MX6, a probe, or a MS3 of the time. Also is there a way I can get the car to run off of one of three tunes, such as an E85 map with a high psi rating, a premium map with a high psi rating, and a premium/regular map with a minimal boost rating? If not this is pretty much a deal breaker for doing anything to the car until I have another one as a DD and this mess around with.
 
Back