Need a few questions answered Nascop5's Mazda Protege5 Build

Nascop5

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2002 Mazda Protege5
Hi there I am a new member of the forum as I just got my Mazda back in September '14 as a car to learn how to drive manual on and get my license. I am looking forward to starting the mods as soon as I have my license and my job is in place. I am curious if the 5.7l Hemi will fit in the engine bay. The reason why I want to choose that engine specifically is I really love it in my brother's '11 mopar Charger and Want to get that wonderful sound and power in the p5. I've tried looking around and really haven't found any solid answers. So to you the modding forum of the Mazda Protege5 Forum please answer this main question. I will be updating the thread as I go a long but for now the only real plans I have for exterior mods are '10 MSP3 Rims darkest legal tints possible and blacking out the lights as well as the rims. As my car is Black the emblems and other items came blacked out from the previous owner. I also plan on putting red underglow lights red footwell lights and a new Headunit to blast some nice tunes from the new 6x8 Kickers I recieved this morning. Also will the stock psu supply enough power for the Kicker Door speakers or will I need an amp?
 
Are you me? Lol all of that but the job, im working two right now, thats how i bought my own protege5 in 3 months time. 2500 cash for 114k miles. Such a nice car.

Welcome to Mazdas247. You'll have a bit more luck with responses in fourms if you post in The Welcome Area.

Any Pictures of your car? How many miles on the car?
 
Welcome to the forum.

Things u should know about our cars.
1. They handle great as is and respond well to suspension mods
2. These cars are slow unless you dump a lot of cash into it. Modding a pro isn't cheap period.

As to ur 5.7 question, ur gonna need custom motor mounts to fit the motor. Also chargers are rwd so unless u gonna cut up ur pro don't try. If your really looking for power if kl swap ur pro. It's the 2.5l v6 that came in different Mazdas in the 90's and early 00. Motor and trans bolt in fine only difficult part to the swap is wiring.

Personally if I were you I'd just do suspension modds you won't go fast in a straight line but with the right setup you'll be faster than most around the corner.

5.7 v8 in a pro now I've heard of everything lol
 
Even if you could drop that engine in here, why would you?

If you bought this car to go fast in a straight line, then i suggest you sell it and buy yourself an American.
 
Even if you could drop that engine in here, why would you?

If you bought this car to go fast in a straight line, then i suggest you sell it and buy yourself an American.

Exactly. Though it would make an epic sleeper...if you managed to get off the line with all that torque steer.
 
My intentions are that exactly make it a sleeper and keep it FWD.My older friend recently totaled his '12 R/T and he is willing to sell me the motor for dirt cheap. I'm talking a month's worth of working for a teen in the Bay area. I am obviously planning on taking advantage of the McPherson Front strut by putting struts in the front and the back. I'm aware I would also need a transmission from the challenger to keep it in manual spec and have the transmission last compared to the stock one from the pro. Its currently at 124,000 miles and just had all major components involving the timing belt and cams. The car is quite torquey and is really fun to drive on backroads like Highway 9 and Hicks road (San Jose). However I want a bit more umph when it comes to the higher end but still keep the responsiveness down low.I am also considering forced induction at a High PSI rating.
 
Well I know I never listen to others and do what I want, so I'm not going to try to discourage you, but rather give you the details involved in doing this swap.

The 2.5l v6 from Mazda is a cram fit into this engine bay. If you say your 5.7l v8 is not much bigger, then you are good there.

I hope you are planning to keep it front wheel drive and can source parts that will fit within the chassis dimensions. If you are doing rear wheel drive, prepare to do a custom fuel tank, custom rear sub frame, custom diff mounting, and cross your fingers to find an appropriate length drive shaft, then custom exhaust.

Assuming the engine and transmission fit under the hood, you now need to fabricate your own engine mounts.

I don't know if you are planning to use the wiring from the 5.7, but if not, then you will need a standalone and do your own wiring with power distribution and some dyno time.

I'm sure I forgot to mention something, but I have my doubt's that the engine will even fit.

Going back to the price, how much do you value your time? Even if it was a free engine, I wouldn't dare take on this challenge.

But once again if you feel you are up for the task, planning is KEY! And do the planning before you buy the engine.

There is also a saying within the automotive community: "if you have to ask your way over your head".

Cheers!

Phil.
 
Transmission from the challenger won't work unless you convert to rwd. To keep it fwd, you'll need to find a fwd transmission from another car that can bolt to the engine, which might require some modifications.
 
Is there an engine swap that would could offer more power? 2JZ swap comes to mind but if you say the 2.5l v6 is a cram do you think there would be room for forced induction? I'm looking for more power than the 200 available from the KLZE. If not is it just as torquey as the pro5's I4?
 
What suspension mods other than Front and Rear Struts. I know people always recommend coilovers but they are so damn expensive.
 
has 124,000 on the clock I've put about 4k on so on purchase it was 120k.
H82w8hy
kcMkBOa
 
Also can I get my question answered about the speakers? They are the ones listed at the link they peak at 140whttp://www.amazon.com/Kicker-DS68-Coaxial-Speakers-Watts/dp/B004MUGI00/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421291035&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+6x8+door+speakers
 
Is there an engine swap that would could offer more power? 2JZ swap comes to mind but if you say the 2.5l v6 is a cram do you think there would be room for forced induction? I'm looking for more power than the 200 available from the KLZE. If not is it just as torquey as the pro5's I4?

KLDE or KLZE are both a direct drop in, same mounts. You can also go with a KJ-ZEM, if you can find one.

Personally, I would go with either the KJ or a forged FSDE. Once you forge your engine, you can push a ton of boost, assuming you have good supporting mods, primarily engine management. The next limitation after forging your engine is the transmission, which lets go anywhere above ~300HP, unless you go easy on the torque you apply to the transmission.

Don't forget that our cars only weigh about 1285KG IIRC, so they are good on weight.

What suspension mods other than Front and Rear Struts. I know people always recommend coilovers but they are so damn expensive.

Rear sway bar from a mazdaspeed protege or an aftermarket one. Costs around $100 and stiffens up the ride.
 
Coilovers are cheaper than a motor swap that's for sure. A good set of coilovers and sway bars work wonders on these cars. Additional chassis braces help as well.

I'd be against a kj swap just cuz the wiring is a b****. I talked to the guy who had the kj p5 and he told me how much of a pain it was to wire. Just go with a kl and boost it of u really still wana swap motors.

Also u shouldn't be thinking about motors that are normally mounted north/south in an engine bay because most won't fit in a pro, plus finding a fwd trans for a rwd motor won't be easy. If u reaaaaallllly wana swap smn unique id look at smn like the 3sgte, mzr disi , k series, or bpt. These motors would be much easier to swap, not easy but still easier than smn that came in a rwd car
 
Coilovers are cheaper than a motor swap that's for sure. A good set of coilovers and sway bars work wonders on these cars. Additional chassis braces help as well.

I'd be against a kj swap just cuz the wiring is a b****. I talked to the guy who had the kj p5 and he told me how much of a pain it was to wire. Just go with a kl and boost it of u really still wana swap motors.

Also u shouldn't be thinking about motors that are normally mounted north/south in an engine bay because most won't fit in a pro, plus finding a fwd trans for a rwd motor won't be easy. If u reaaaaallllly wana swap smn unique id look at smn like the 3sgte, mzr disi , k series, or bpt. These motors would be much easier to swap, not easy but still easier than smn that came in a rwd car

I wouldn't keep KJ wiring anyways due to the automatic transmission, I would go standalone. The nice thing about it is that its forged from the factory (minus the pistons) and are known to withstand quite a bit of power. Furthermore, they are much lighter than our 4 cylinder.

I do know there is an issue with mounting the passenger mount for that engine into our chassis, did you speak to him about the engine mount?
 
Yes you are right but at the same time you are limited on power based on the design of the motor itself since it is a miller cycle motor. As for the passenger motor mount I didn't ask since he didn't say netting about that mount being an issue. He told me the main problem is the wiring since the ecu does boost by gear iirc so when u remove the auto trans the ecu is looking for the signals from the trans when it comes to timing or smn along those lines.

Hood clearance is also an issue with the kj in a pro. But that isn't a big problem as you can get hood spacers and your good
 
Yes you are right but at the same time you are limited on power based on the design of the motor itself since it is a miller cycle motor. As for the passenger motor mount I didn't ask since he didn't say netting about that mount being an issue. He told me the main problem is the wiring since the ecu does boost by gear iirc so when u remove the auto trans the ecu is looking for the signals from the trans when it comes to timing or smn along those lines.

Hood clearance is also an issue with the kj in a pro. But that isn't a big problem as you can get hood spacers and your good

The only limitation you have with the miller cycle is that you have to keep it forced induction. A buddy of mine put a turbo on it since the stock supercharger was not very reliable. And he is using the manual transmission from the KL, which is a direct bolt on as you must already know. I wouldn't even consider trying to get the stock ECU to run, thats just a nightmare. If I don't forge my FSDE I will be dropping a KJ into my car, that i can guarantee.

I dont mean to thread jack, but this is useful information in the event that you decide to go this route.
 
I was poking around in the trunk cleaning up some oil residue in the carpet and saw there were two caps right above the suspension with places to put in screws. I thought originally that it was a place to mount a Rear Strut Bar but after doing some research on ebay and other markets to buy a rear strut they either require customs fits or are fitted under the car. Is there a strut that mounts in the car in the trunk?
 
I was poking around in the trunk cleaning up some oil residue in the carpet and saw there were two caps right above the suspension with places to put in screws. I thought originally that it was a place to mount a Rear Strut Bar but after doing some research on ebay and other markets to buy a rear strut they either require customs fits or are fitted under the car. Is there a strut that mounts in the car in the trunk?

I have seen rear strut bars mounted in these cars, cannot remember where, look at bikingpro5's build thread, i think I saw one there.
 
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