Need 2015 Mazda5 Sport stock stereo head unit wiring diagram

[bnwgraaf]

Hi!
I have just bought a 2009 Mazda 2 and would like to install an Android head unit. But of course I do not want to loose my steering wheel controls.

I have read a lot on the internet, but everytime they say, that you need a steering wheel interface adapter (canbus adapter?), but those are pretty expensive, especially compaired to the prices of an Android headunit.

Now I have found this forum post and if I understand it well, you can do without a steering wheel interface adapter? Why should one buy such a pretty expensive adapter? Is that because it is easy and plug and play, while without it, you will have to do some extra work yourself? Or will I miss some functionality when not using the adapter?

Does this adapter use canbus and is using pin 1N and 1P another way of using SWC but with difference in resistance?

In my Mazda 2 the display is only used for the radio, not for other things like climate control, temperature, etc....

So do you think, on my mazda model 2 it is also possible to use the steering wheel controls bij only using pins 1N and 1P and connect them to ground and to key 1 and after that learning the headunit the right functions to the right buttons?
Of course i have to check the exact pinout on my car, but I beleive it is the same connector.

 

[teetee1]

Hi!
I have just bought a 2009 Mazda 2 and would like to install an Android head unit. But of course I do not want to loose my steering wheel controls.

I have read a lot on the internet, but everytime they say, that you need a steering wheel interface adapter (canbus adapter?), but those are pretty expensive, especially compaired to the prices of an Android headunit.

Now I have found this forum post and if I understand it well, you can do without a steering wheel interface adapter? Why should one buy such a pretty expensive adapter? Is that because it is easy and plug and play, while without it, you will have to do some extra work yourself? Or will I miss some functionality when not using the adapter?

Does this adapter use canbus and is using pin 1N and 1P another way of using SWC but with difference in resistance?

In my Mazda 2 the display is only used for the radio, not for other things like climate control, temperature, etc....

So do you think, on my mazda model 2 it is also possible to use the steering wheel controls bij only using pins 1N and 1P and connect them to ground and to key 1 and after that learning the headunit the right functions to the right buttons?
Of course i have to check the exact pinout on my car, but I beleive it is the same connector.

I am not familiar with 2009 Mazda 2 so the following is only what I know:

It is possible to use interfaces like axxess aswc-1 or canbus to send the steering wheel signals to the head unit as long as the unit has the pins for receiving the predefined signals. The interface converts the button press signal from the car(different car has different signals e.g. resistance or voltage) into standardized signal for the unit.
For resistance signals from most Japanese cars, most head units can skip the interface and provide key1(and key2) and ground pins for receiving the signals. It does not know each signal mean and that is why the user needs to configure them one by one on the unit after installation. There is no reason to use the interfaces or decoders if your car supports resistance signals from the steering wheel buttons if your unit supports it.

There are addition features that the interface / decoder can support but like you said, if you don't need it, then there is no point to spend extra money on it.

 

[bnwgraaf]

I am not familiar with 2009 Mazda 2 so the following is only what I know:

It is possible to use interfaces like axxess aswc-1 or canbus to send the steering wheel signals to the head unit as long as the unit has the pins for receiving the predefined signals. The interface converts the button press signal from the car(different car has different signals e.g. resistance or voltage) into standardized signal for the unit.
For resistance signals from most Japanese cars, most head units can skip the interface and provide key1(and key2) and ground pins for receiving the signals. It does not know each signal mean and that is why the user needs to configure them one by one on the unit after installation. There is no reason to use the interfaces or decoders if your car supports resistance signals from the steering wheel buttons if your unit supports it.

There are addition features that the interface / decoder can support but like you said, if you don't need it, then there is no point to spend extra money on it.

Thank you for your quick reply!
This sounds promising!

I have found another forum post and it's about a Mazda 2, slightly newer year than mine, but with a picture of the same connector as you have mentioned.

So there is a good chance that it also works for me.
They told over there that some people loosed their info after removing their oem headunit, but that was restored after connecting pin 13 (1P) to ground.

I think I will find me a nice Android unit and will try it!

How do you like the Android so far and which one do you have?

 

[teetee1]

Thank you for your quick reply!
This sounds promising!

I have found another forum post and it's about a Mazda 2, slightly newer year than mine, but with a picture of the same connector as you have mentioned.

So there is a good chance that it also works for me.
They told over there that some people loosed their info after removing their oem headunit, but that was restored after connecting pin 13 (1P) to ground.

I think I will find me a nice Android unit and will try it!

How do you like the Android so far and which one do you have?

I find it a great upgrade considering I never knew how to use Bluetooth for phone calls or music playing, or rear view camera, or dashcams. Soon I can run them all plus a lot more (Nav app, games, movies, OBD2 with torque) all on one unit. It is a better and safer solution than trying to use smartphone for everything in the car.

One thing with the Android choices if you are ordering the no brand/Chinese brand at the low price (< $100). Get the one with Android 8.1 with 1GB ram. Don't believe any Android 9+ or units with 2GB ram below $100. The system info page on the unit would show Android 9.1 and 2G ram but when you run cpu-z, it will say Android 8.1Go with 1024 MB ram. Don't ask how I know.

You should be able to get a 7" Android based units for $55 with two USB cables (thee USB data channels) on the back and one in the front, in addition to the GPS antenna, iso harness, rear view camera cable, and the AV input/output cable on eBay. You also need to ignore all the WinCE units (are usually priced lower than Android based units) and make sure the Android one can access Google play store if your goal is to have an android with the ability to run android apps of your choosing. Some from XDA forum also mentioned the Android units do not come with good internal mic ( for voice commands which I find useful for GPS nav) so it may help to spend a bit more to find one that has dedicated external mic cable.

About low profile units: overheating can an issue. I DIYed a mount for a cpu fan to blow air towards the back of my unit and use the 5v and gnd from one of the USB connection from the unit. During the summer, I will make sure I use AC. With the fan I think my unit will be ok.

 

[teetee1]

More reference material for anyone who may find it helpful.

Pinout for 8227L based android unit

 

[Silentnoise713]

Still no idea but I did the install today and took this photo showing that connector:
View attachment 224305

This USB adapter looks to be the same:

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

I am going to order the following and replace the stock one.

8.48C$ 30% OFF|Biurlink 1.5m Rca Usb Cable Adapter Switch 3.5mm Audio Jack Aux Usb Cable Extention Mount Panel Wiring For Volkswagen Toyota - Cables, Adapters & Sockets - AliExpress

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Here is my wiring (top from left to right: antenna adapter, stock wiring harness, rear view camera; bottom left to right: antenna on the radio, AV input/output on the radio, ISO connector on the radio, and rear view camera on the radio).
View attachment 224307

The radio works better than I expected: Radio, GPS, Bluetooth (phone and music streaming), local file player, wifi, google play store all worked. The only thing that is not working is my steering wheel control - I was hoping connecting the KEY2 wire (from radio) to ground and KEY1 from radio to SW1 on stocking wiring will do the trick like in other discussion thread indicated but the steering wheel setting did not take it. Have to wait my second Metra harness arrive to move the pin/wire over and try again.

Here is the system info of my unit:
View attachment 224308

Todo:
- get the steering wheel learning to work
- install the rear view camera
- test the OBD2 bluetooth dongle

Thanks for posting updates.

I read quite a few of these budget end Andriods report fake specs (think overclocking/boosting). Run CPU-Z to see what hardware is really in there. If it works for you needs, guess it doesn't really matter BUT you can get some money back from seller

BTW, what is the cold boot-up time? Does this unit support quick boot? I'd like to know more about this feature.

There are a LOT of nuances to Android units to be aware of. Older chips run hot and the dashboard (no air flow) turns into an oven in summer heat.
-generation of processor - PX6 is the latest (don't focus too much on speed).
-RAM is a big factor (more the better and never enough unless you only plan to run single app. will eat up portion of memory)
-radio chipset
-internal amp chipset
-DSP or no DSP
-build quality
-bluetooth standard

 

[bnwgraaf]

I find it a great upgrade considering I never knew how to use Bluetooth for phone calls or music playing, or rear view camera, or dashcams. Soon I can run them all plus a lot more (Nav app, games, movies, OBD2 with torque) all on one unit. It is a better and safer solution than trying to use smartphone for everything in the car.

One thing with the Android choices if you are ordering the no brand/Chinese brand at the low price (< $100). Get the one with Android 8.1 with 1GB ram. Don't believe any Android 9+ or units with 2GB ram below $100. The system info page on the unit would show Android 9.1 and 2G ram but when you run cpu-z, it will say Android 8.1Go with 1024 MB ram. Don't ask how I know.

You should be able to get a 7" Android based units for $55 with two USB cables (thee USB data channels) on the back and one in the front, in addition to the GPS antenna, iso harness, rear view camera cable, and the AV input/output cable on eBay. You also need to ignore all the WinCE units (are usually priced lower than Android based units) and make sure the Android one can access Google play store if your goal is to have an android with the ability to run android apps of your choosing. Some from XDA forum also mentioned the Android units do not come with good internal mic ( for voice commands which I find useful for GPS nav) so it may help to spend a bit more to find one that has dedicated external mic cable.

About low profile units: overheating can an issue. I DIYed a mount for a cpu fan to blow air towards the back of my unit and use the 5v and gnd from one of the USB connection from the unit. During the summer, I will make sure I use AC. With the fan I think my unit will be ok.

That is some great extra peace of advice!
I have seen units with 4GB ram from just about $150 till up to $400 or $500...
But I am also still looking at an "A-brand" radio with Android Auto.... I am not sure at this moment.
But great information on this forum, tnx guys!

 

[teetee1]

Thanks for posting updates.

I read quite a few of these budget end Andriods report fake specs (think overclocking/boosting). Run CPU-Z to see what hardware is really in there. If it works for you needs, guess it doesn't really matter BUT you can get some money back from seller

BTW, what is the cold boot-up time? Does this unit support quick boot? I'd like to know more about this feature.

There are a LOT of nuances to Android units to be aware of. Older chips run hot and the dashboard (no air flow) turns into an oven in summer heat.
-generation of processor - PX6 is the latest (don't focus too much on speed).
-RAM is a big factor
...

The cold boot time is less than 30secs on mine after the ACC+ and constant power was cut and reattached(not sure if there is a small battery inside to keep it running for short amount of time). By just cutting the 12v Acc line and reconnect it, the unit takes less than 5 seconds to see the radio player.

Good to know most of selection criteria for a smartphone apply to the android head unit.

 

[teetee1]

A quick update: I spent a good portion of one weekend in May to wire up the rear view cam, two (front and back) dashcams, the external mic, and finished mounting the head unit. It was a pain to get the yellow RCA video connector through the rubber tube for the hatch wiring but the 5min struggle paid off. I used the passenger side of the car for routing wires of both rear view camera on the hatch(above the license plate) and the rear dash cam attached to the trim piece, behind the top hatch trim, where the third brake light is. The cable went through the the passenger side ceiling and took a turn down behind the weather seal before meeting the sliding door. There is plenty of room for the rest of the cable to go underneath the doorjam to the fuse box location next to the glove box, the the cable was wire-tied behind the glove box before it reached the center console.

There are few minor issues that are not really deal breakers but would be nice if I could solve, including the loud volume from the radio and the low volume of Bluetooth and navigation voice from the Here app at the same volume level setting. Even with the minimal volume setting ("1"), the sound coming from the radio is still louder than normal sppech volume and with that setting, I can't hear anything from the phone or navigation. I will have to play with the sound mixer setting more to hopefully improve that.

The rear view camera video quality can be improved but it is usable for what it does.

The electronics of the unit seems to work as expected. There is no battery drain when the car is off. Overall it was a worthy upgrade considering everything including the soldering supplies, dash kit and three cameras was under $100 after getting $50 partial refund from the eBay seller.

 

[bradlee313]

All that work on wiring and you could have just bought the PAC interface.

 

[hleboklop]

There are few minor issues that are not really deal breakers but would be nice if I could solve, including the loud volume from the radio and the low volume of Bluetooth and navigation voice from the Here app at the same volume level setting. Even with the minimal volume setting ("1"), the sound coming from the radio is still louder than normal sppech volume and with that setting, I can't hear anything from the phone or navigation. I will have to play with the sound mixer setting more to hopefully improve that.

There should be some sort of "hidden" "factory settings" menu or "engineering menu", where you can adjust the sound balance between navigation, music and notifications. Usually, this menu requires a password, such as 1111, 8888, 3368, 1234, etc.

 

[hleboklop]

All that work on wiring and you could have just bought the PAC interface.

I wish this interface exposed more functions to Android system, not just steering wheel buttons. Imagine, how cool would it be to map voice commands to AC controls!

 

[Silentnoise713]

All that work on wiring and you could have just bought the PAC interface.

Not sure how the PAC would have saved any wiring work in this case, esp running camera. The initial user error is a diff debate.

The PAC is just an external firmware that an android does via software for free.