NA Race Results

high 15 is fairly straight forward if you are good enough to pull it off... i run a low 15 with next to no modifications (computer, cams, weight reduction etc)

I dont think most normal people would consider a standalone and custom cams 'next to no modification'...... :)
 
I dont think most normal people would consider a standalone and custom cams 'next to no modification'...... :)

well
i not normal :P

and

compared to something like say, what you've got...it is next to no modification.....
i mean...i layed down a 15.2 on the stock intake (!!!)

even prior to cams and microtech, the car was running 16.1's from memory....
:)
 
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Damn yer light-ass machinery! Maybe if I lose the spare... the sunroof... the propane tank... the baby seat... :D
 
Damn yer light-ass machinery! Maybe if I lose the spare... the sunroof... the propane tank... the baby seat... :D

Just so you know, propane tanks are not an allowed mod in the NA race! :) I have yet to get the baby seat mod done yet but I heard its alot of $$$$
 
Nope. Propane is legal as long as it's the only fuel source. I still have a gasoline tank, but I only use gasoline to start the car, since the propane vaporizer draws its heat from the radiator. Have been thinking of integrating a heating coil into the vaporizer so I can start on propane alone.

Anyway... on propane, I'm not even in the race. At about 145 whp on propane, while on gasoline, I'm at 151 whp at just 6500 rpm... we're probably going to raise the limiter a little and see how far up these cams can breathe.
 
R/T .197
60' 2.589
1/8 10.639 @ 67.25
1/4 16.430 @ 85.10

mods- front awr engine mount, mp3 ecu, 1.8 coil pack conversion, deep reach spark plugs, headers, boxless air filter, magnaflow exhaust, short shifter, and light weight clutch and flywheel.

Car had 32 psi in all tires. Had spare in the back and everything was as is on the street. I'm pretty sure when i get rid of this car i'm getting a v8...... lol.
Ls1 comes to mind.
 
just need to practice your launches. should be able to get 2.2/2.3's out of stock rubber (i got 2.14's on toyo t1s 205/45/16, stock wheels), which could get you in to the high 15's. try lowering the front wheel presures to 15psi, lift the rears to 50. naturally getting rid of weight will help as well. and dont worry about your reaction time - doesnt make you go any faster
 
I was going to say 32 psi is a bit high.... just work on your pressures and launches and you'll be fine...
 
The point of the first run was to see what my car could pull in a street setting. "daily driver". I've been to the track a while back and i lowered the tire pressures to about 20 and upped the rears to about 35. I just put that time because it was my fastest.

Sad thing is when my girlfriend came she wanted to ride with and i honestly didn't have the heart to tell her no. I ran a 16.6 and that was on my first run of the night. Second run i waited up for my friend to make it more even and the third run He added his frickin twin 12's in a custom made box that he has into the back of my car. Needless to say the first run was my quickest all night.

I plan on running once more and after that i'm done with it. I'm going to do a proper strip of the car and i've got the shifting points down in my car to a t. Not to mention i'll of course lower the tire pressures again.
 
I plan on running once more and after that i'm done with it. I'm going to do a proper strip of the car and i've got the shifting points down in my car to a t. Not to mention i'll of course lower the tire pressures again.

I'll make this easy on you - best shift points on the FSDE, in every gear, is the same....REDLINE. Even though you are dropping off the power curve, you'll still be generating higher thrust due to gearing in each and every lower gear...in fact if you could spin the engine to 10k rpm (you can't but if you could), the shift points would *still* be redline.

I cheat a bit these days - microtech dash provides me 2 pre-shift warning lights, then a shift light and an overrev light... first gear's a little quick, but 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th, I get pinpoint accurate shifts which helps a great deal with consistency...a shift light with a preshift warning light is a worthwhile investment as it will allow you to grab the next gear at the maximum possible engine speed every single time.
 
You are stating to redline and not actually "into" redline to the max it can go right before pinging off right?

To clarify, i shift right at the redline stated by the tachometer. I don't go into it, i just shift right at it.This is actually the point i've found to be the fastest in the times that i've screwed around at the track so far. Correct?
 
You are stating to redline and not actually "into" redline to the max it can go right before pinging off right?

To clarify, i shift right at the redline stated by the tachometer. I don't go into it, i just shift right at it.This is actually the point i've found to be the fastest in the times that i've screwed around at the track so far. Correct?

correct
with the FSDE, and G series gearbox, spin the engine as fast as you can before the engine taps on teh rev limiter - in every gear. If you can lift your rev limiter (those of us with after market computers run 7000, or 7500rpm rev limits), then spin them to THAT rev limit...

you'll never reach an RPM with this motor where the shift point will be anything but the redline....

16.4 with full weight isn't anything to be ashamed of really
i was running that kind of speed fully stock with full weight, and 16.1's after weight reduction...even mild mods struggle to see you into the 15's without a computer..aftermarket computer will bring much joy to your times :)
 
First time at the drag strip was pretty sweet. Ran four times and got a little better each time.

1
reaction .6704
60' 2.57
1/4 mile 16.25@85.8

2
.5803
2.53
16.14@86.3

3
.4285
2.49
16.05@86.3

4
.1149
2.46
15.97@86.63

stock rubber at ~30PSI maybe 45lbs weight reduction. i guess my 60' times are kind of slow, I was hoping for better but pleased with first time out results.
 
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