n/a beast
- Thread starter prozeke07
- Start date
Couple quick points.
Stock TB= 55MM
Nitrous IS a method of forced induction because it isn't natural. A pressurized substance being injected into a motor qualifes it as a FORCED induction. Real basic understanding there folks..
Moreover, Tri-point's 240hp Protege's weren't 2.0L's..They were custom made motors that are based off the FS-DE. They were bored over and had substantial work.
Also, as for HP "liking" nitrous. Everything "likes" spray, just make sure your motor can hold it. That's really common sense.
Also, AEM's EMS is way overkill for what you want. Go microtech or haltech E6X. Also note, "headers" = "header"
Stock TB= 55MM
Nitrous IS a method of forced induction because it isn't natural. A pressurized substance being injected into a motor qualifes it as a FORCED induction. Real basic understanding there folks..
Moreover, Tri-point's 240hp Protege's weren't 2.0L's..They were custom made motors that are based off the FS-DE. They were bored over and had substantial work.
Also, as for HP "liking" nitrous. Everything "likes" spray, just make sure your motor can hold it. That's really common sense.
Also, AEM's EMS is way overkill for what you want. Go microtech or haltech E6X. Also note, "headers" = "header"
SpicyMchaggis said:
Really? So I guess we might as well close down the NA Tech section then. Because we all have pressurized substances being injected into the motor. It's called gasoline.
Nitrous is an oxidizer, allowing more free oxygen molecules to combine with fuel to create more power. Forced induction involves forcing more air(ie, nitrogen, oxygen, CO2, argon etc) under pressure to combine with fuel to create more power. Although obviously only the oxygen is needed.
I thought forced induction was just that, forced! You have a turbo or S/C that forces air. N2o is more of an additive, you don't have any thing forcing it down. What does NHRA classifi it as?
Oh and if you do a 50+ shot on a 12.1 or more you better make sure you have a bullet proof block and internals. It can be done but you can't make any mistakes. And I don't know if raising the RPM would go good with the increases comprestion and nitrous.
Oh and if you do a 50+ shot on a 12.1 or more you better make sure you have a bullet proof block and internals. It can be done but you can't make any mistakes. And I don't know if raising the RPM would go good with the increases comprestion and nitrous.
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twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
in australia, n2o and FI are classed as power adders, simple as that.
NHRA says Forced Induction qualifes as: Superchargers, Turbochargers, and Nitrous Oxide. All of them are power adders. All of them FORCED induction. What's hard to understand about a pressurized chemical being FORCED into the combustion chamber and creating supplemental oxygen to bond with fuel. It's not gasoline folks. FORCED induction means a agent or mechanical part is forcing an otherwise abnormal amount of oxygen into the combustion chamber.
I have read that nitrous likes high compression. But for those, like us, who have weak bottom ends it is highly recomended that you get stronger internals. I am not a super car guru but if you are planning to add 150 shot I would find a way to add more fuel also. You take the chance of running lean.
^^^
Of course, that goes for anyone running nitrous period. There is no safe "kit" you can run on. everyone seems to think 50 wet is "safe" Nothing is ever really safe with n20. Anyone who wants to run a real (and reliable) N20 based system should of course invest in supplemental fuel, proper engine management, and invest in strengthing the weakest links in your motor. As said many times before in the Forced Induction section, just because someone has forged internals, it doesn't mean your motor is bulletproof. So many other factors involved. But, good luck with your N/A project. (N20 isn't N/A)
Of course, that goes for anyone running nitrous period. There is no safe "kit" you can run on. everyone seems to think 50 wet is "safe" Nothing is ever really safe with n20. Anyone who wants to run a real (and reliable) N20 based system should of course invest in supplemental fuel, proper engine management, and invest in strengthing the weakest links in your motor. As said many times before in the Forced Induction section, just because someone has forged internals, it doesn't mean your motor is bulletproof. So many other factors involved. But, good luck with your N/A project. (N20 isn't N/A)
average gasoline is approx. 8 carbons bonded with about 18 hydrogen atoms to create C8H18 then it is mixed with the oxygen in the chamber to combust. with that in mind... we need oxygen for combustion but how to get it... 
what does traditional F/I do?
it creates more oxygen in the chamber for the combustion by forcing more oxygen into the chamber.
what does nitrous do?
it creates more oxygen in the chamber for the combustion by forcing more oxygen into the chamber.
whether it does it with a spinning turbine or just a simple chemical compound where oxygen is present, its all F/I.
N20 = F/I
what does traditional F/I do?
it creates more oxygen in the chamber for the combustion by forcing more oxygen into the chamber.
what does nitrous do?
it creates more oxygen in the chamber for the combustion by forcing more oxygen into the chamber.
whether it does it with a spinning turbine or just a simple chemical compound where oxygen is present, its all F/I.
N20 = F/I
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Part number is no good for a dealership. However I was told it may be a good Mazdaspeed (aftermarket) number?
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
I do not.
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
how much whp would you think I would have with injen CAI(currently have), mam midpipe and 2.5" cat-back(planning on getting these)? also, think this is good for mid 15's?
SlimMilkMan327
Member
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- 2003.5 Black P5
maybe adding a header could give you a chance with that
