I built a custom manifold adapter, and used a set of throttle bodies from a Suzuki Hayabusa. I found the injector location, pre-butterfly stack length and a few other issues that made the setup sub-optimal. So, I cut down my manifold adapter, mounted two sets of aluminum Weber DCOE flanges, then picked these up:
http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?products_id=113
And got them working like that. This completely changed how the throttle percentages were handled, as far as the TPS, and the values that were output. I don't recall exactly how I got around this, but it was just a set of values within the ECU, and had to switch a bunch of stuff around to get MAP working. On that note, too, I think you'd be best off to have IRTB's with a collector at the end (I think TweakIt also sells those) and a tube to run a MAF setup, rather than the MAP.
Even when it was tuned poorly, the car had absolutely ABSURD throttle response. Sharp enough that I had to be careful even with all of my engine mounts swapped with urethane to not get wheelhop... From a roll, it would happily do it at the higher end of first gear. Heh.
Let's see... Ditch EGR all together, because it makes it a real b**** to tune for, and you have to make a means to mount it and so on.
Back when I got these throttle bodies (I've since sold them, and the FS to DCOE manifold adapter, though I have a spare aluminum flange for the Intake on the FS engine, as well as some runners bent to shape, if you need them.) I had ordered 45mm race series, though in hindsight, it would have been nice to have the tapered mouth runners, rather than the straight runners. Probably would have helped a little more at the low end. I got the D-shaft for TPS added, and used 11mm injector bungs. Also, I went with the cable pull linkages, and used the stock throttle cable. I fabbed the vac runner myself, but I see they offer that, now, too!
As far as tuning it, I would suggest that you spend quite a bit of time at the dyno, then road test it and adjust as necessary. It makes the car EXTREMELY difficult to drive on the road if you lean things out too much, which lends itself to really rough, jerky throttle transitions... The tip-in enrichment is the biggest deal, since every percent of throttle you transition in is actually throating open a LOT more surface area than a single plate at the base of the plenum.
Oh, also-also, you're going to want to make the runners as long as you can... Seriously. Just don't forget that you have a firewall, and that the engine will rock back and forth, so... I think I ended up getting about 11.5" of runner, total, before I felt uncomfortable with proximity. That makes for a few harmonics at 5500, 7000, and some absurdly high thousand RPM. =) I think 11k, or something.
Some nice info posted there!
