My MSP is slower then a stock civic!!!

916msp

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Mazda, Protege Turbo, Mazdaspeed 2003
Kinda like the title says my 03 MSP is SUPER SLOW!!! There is no check engine light. However I have gotten a P0300 code recently ( multiple cylinder misfire). So far I replaced the coil packs and had the ECM updated by the dealer. The car still is super slow, feels like something is dragging is back. I am a mechanic and follow digestions instructions well. Iv been all over the forums but can't seem to find anyone with the same problem.
Recap: No check engine light, New coil packs and spark plugs, ECM updated.
 
Could be anything from a clogged cat, to bad stock tune.

If it is totally Stock, then yes, it's a bit slow I suppose.

I haven't been in a stock MSP since 2003.
 
Did it just become suddenly slow or has it always been slow? And if you are talking against something like a 2012 civic si then yeah, a stock msp is probably slower.

MSPs were never really fast. I haven't been in a stock msp in a long time either though.
 
Thanks for the fast replies. It wasn't this slow before. It feels like its dragging a tractor. After getting the ECM updated I raced my brothers 1999 civic HX (116 HP) he just embarrassed me. The Revs climb extremely slow I have no Idea what it could be. Could a bad cat really do that?
 
Did it just become suddenly slow or has it always been slow? And if you are talking against something like a 2012 civic si then yeah, a stock msp is probably slower.

MSPs were never really fast. I haven't been in a stock msp in a long time either though.

I outrun SI's no problem, but a stock MSP is pretty slow.
Sounds like you have wrong or incorrectly gapped spark plugs, or one of your coils has failed.
 
Thanks for the fast replies. It wasn't this slow before. It feels like its dragging a tractor. After getting the ECM updated I raced my brothers 1999 civic HX (116 HP) he just embarrassed me. The Revs climb extremely slow I have no Idea what it could be. Could a bad cat really do that?

Sounds EXACTLY like a clogged cat. I would definitely start there. It would only cost you a few dollars to have it replaced with a straight pipe and see if it fixes it. I don't know much about turbos but I imagine the built up heat from having a clogged converter could seriously mess up a turbocharger, so I would definitely check it out.
 
Sounds EXACTLY like a clogged cat. I would definitely start there. It would only cost you a few dollars to have it replaced with a straight pipe and see if it fixes it. I don't know much about turbos but I imagine the built up heat from having a clogged converter could seriously mess up a turbocharger, so I would definitely check it out.

It's more profound than that. A Restricted Cat literally prevents the turbo from spooling up and you get NA Car performance.
 
Do you have a boost gauge? Random misfire is pretty comon with a vacuum leak and that will definitely kill the performance.
 
Yes and it read 8psi under throttle. Been searching and still no luck. Any input is greatly appreciated.
 
i would definately replace the cat with a test pipe, when i bought my msp it was slower than my 92 vw golf until i went straight pipe. the inside of the cat clogged so bad that you can barely see anything.
 
Il go ahead and look into the cat problem, also i dont think its something wrong with the vacuum. The way it drives and feels. It picks up speed slower then a n/a protege so i feel like the turbo isnt the suspect here.
 
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There is an easy way to see, you could just run with the DP and nothing else for a short time.

See if all of the issues go away.

Also please check

that there are no leaks in the intake system.
that the VCTS system can move freely.

Both of those will severely hinder performance.

Also make sure that you are running 91 or better in the tank,
 
so you're sure its building boost? first thing i was going to say was a wastegate that was stuck open...and that the turbo is spooling fine, but just bleeding off any pressure...

if you're sure you're building boost...then its going to move the problem more towards the intake system...and a vacuum leak and/or air leak at the IC or plumbing, completely clogged air filter, sensor malfunction, etc...is causing that boost to either leave into the atmosphere...or not be registered by the ecu...

Clogged catalysts, as mentioned, can cause very noticeable driving problems on turbo'd cars...but you'll also usually see that through a lack of boost being generated...

so yeah, something is obviously up if you can't manage to hang with a 116 hp civic...I was thinking the same as others, if it was a k20 SI or something...those bastards can have nearly 190whp with just an intake and exhaust...and they're higher stock than an MSP to begin with...
 
Thanks for all the reply's, still no luck though. Well I removed the cats and still the same:(
The boost gauge says its boosting about 9psi but it sure as hell doesn't feel like it lol. Also the car is super sluggish from start(800-1500 RPMS), I mean probably slower then a Prius. This is my first Mazda and its driving me insane, really wish I just stayed with a Honda lol.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated, Thank you.
PS: The oil pressure gauge read 0psi at idle, Is this normal for a Mazda, when I first installed the gauge I was worried it only did 50psi under full load but I guess that's normal for a Mazda.
 
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Boost leak. The t25 is small enough to still build boost but it will still sap all the power. Check all piping thoroughly I had a pencil sized hole that made 16 psi feel like almost like 8. And don't just look at it and say you don't see anything, pull it off and check every bit inside and out
 
uh...0 psi oil pressure at idle is definitely not normal, bud...but if the engine is still running, i'm guessing its just a gauge malfunction...0 psi will lock an engine in a couple of minutes at even normal idle rpm...but 0 psi will show up just before an engine stalls, too...

there are a lot of crappy ways to install oil pressure gauges...usually when they are 'T'd off' an oil line...rather than having the sending unit placed at a 'dead end'...if that makes sense...the readings can be very innacurate if the oil isn't pushing against the sending unit properly...

Still betting on a boost leak somewhere...the leak is bad enough that its not only venting boost off, its screwing up the air metering...so the fuel requirements are all wrong...you could potentially have multiple leaks, based on how bad it seems...
 
Don't forget fuel pressure as well...low fuel pressure can cause multiple misfires and low power
 
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