my engine swap thread

G

gato9lives

Member
:
mzda prtge msp
went zoom zoom boom at 120k..was pretty much stock...
swapping all the fs-det parts on my msp to an fs-de to bring my car back to life...have never done the swap but read all about it in the numerous threads on here(deadhorse
....i have mechanical skills and am going to attempt this at home. Have the mazda factory manuals (that i got a really good deal on if anybody wants to know about)to guide me through this.(boom02) starting to take it apart today....new old engine should be in my driveway on thursday....
had some coin stashed....
Going to be adding some mods as well........would like some input and advice on my choices here...
nology wires or magnacor
fidenza flywheel or mazdaspeed lightweight flywheel(dont know weight or much about this 1?
new clutch???act hdg6 6 puck or street series??
stainless steel clutch line
underdrive pulleys
awr side mount inserts or the the whole mount(is it worth it or just get the mounts...)
awr tranny mount???any input???
hard pipe intercooler kit??
possibly corksport downpipe????
and some type of mbc and blow off valve kit(forge motorsport??)
have not bought all these parts yet as i am still doing some research and would be glad for any advice and input....
help%21.gif

(group)(usa)(whistle)
 
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if you went boom on stock boost, def do not get that boost controller lol
the swap is really straight forward, unbolt the s***, then bolt it back up how u found it

and to the flywheel, the fidanza is alot lighter then the MSP, clutch; do not get the 6 puck, or you'll be hating yourself in stop and go traffic
the mounts, those are ok as long as you dont mind a few vibes at idle
 
actually was more like zoom zoom grind....main bearings wore down...drained oil and had metal flakes floating in it...started with horrid clicking tapping noise and just got worse...very....1-2k on parts depending on much bang i can get for the buck....was also going to pull my diff to see what it looks like and hopefully get it welded....
 
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already got the rear medieval/awr mount....vibration and comfort is not an issue....not my daily driver....plan on rebuliding the engine in it possibly....bought my car with 15 miles on it brand new...will probably keep long term....grown attached to it and its quirks(many).(burn)
 
yudkib said:
what happened that you blew up? and what are you looking at for a mod budget? (or a total project budget?)
Click to expand...
how do you like the forge OEM replacement valve and AEM UEGO wideband???tell me more about this wideband magic thing you talk about???(stash)
 
hahaha my sig is so horribly outdated. the wideband is a MUST if you plan to run anything more than 7-8psi, and i liked the AEM unit. itll tell you your air/fuel and much more accurately than a cheap air/fuel gauge which is just a voltmeter for your O2 signal wire.
if youve got one or two grand to spend, most people will tell you to upgrade your intercooler and blowoff valve... the forge bypass replacement was hardly an upgrade. it was nice, shiny, but the OEM setup is far from ideal and theres only so much a replacement BPV can do to fix it... skip it and go straight to a front-mount intercooler and a nice valve like an HKS.
 
yudkib said:
the wideband is a MUST if you plan to run anything more than 7-8psi, and i liked the AEM unit. itll tell you your air/fuel and much more accurately than a cheap air/fuel gauge which is just a voltmeter for your O2 signal wire.
if youve got one or two grand to spend, most people will tell you to upgrade your intercooler and blowoff valveskip it and go straight to a front-mount intercooler and a nice valve like an HKS.
Click to expand...
any simple straight up blow off valve setups??
intercoolers?? whats up the the low budget kits on ebay????
i also have one of these sitting in my closet but nobody can give any good input on it???
apexi_avcr_boost_controller.jpg
 
the low budget kits work, but you have to route your own pipes and cut everything to fit. theres a bunch of how-tos on here for that. you also have to buy a straight pipe with a BOV flange on it, or weld your own onto one of your intercooler pipes.

if you build your own intercooler, you can move your mass airflow sensor to a spot on the cold pipe near the throttle body. then you can run a blowoff valve that just vents to atmosphere.
its pretty simple, again, theres how-to's, and it lets you run a straight blowoff setup (you will have to cap your intake).

and the AVCR is a stupidly nice boost controller. if you want to give me a nice gift for helping, id gladly take that.
 
yudkib said:
and the AVCR is a stupidly nice boost controller. if you want to give me a nice gift for helping, id gladly take that.
Click to expand...
traded some junk for it and i didnt really know much about it..???read the instruction manual for this thing.....i was like whoa....overkill for my setup???i just need some help setting it up....(confused)would like to do it myself...????would have to hate to break down and take it to a shop and pay for installation......may have too though.....(toilet)
 
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lol no such thing as overkill, just smart modding
do a google search for some more info on it, ive never heard of those but im sure other people have used them
 
sorry to hear about the motor but I would definitely take that mod money and get some forged rods and pistons, new bearings and ARP studs instead of modding on another stock motor and risking another motor
 
yeah - forged rods and pistons is the single best thing you can do at this point, but it will add substantially to your build. youre just swapping in a junkyard motor?
 
Spiced MSP said:
sorry to hear about the motor but I would definitely take that mod money and get some forged rods and pistons, new bearings and ARP studs instead of modding on another stock motor and risking another motor
Click to expand...

(iagree)

If this isnt your daily driver and you truly want to do this the right way...go forged.

It may burn up most of your mod money but you have a lot more options after that.

You will be thankful down the road when all of us are on our 7th motor.
 
would really like to get the car back on the road...
car had 120k..so the clutch and flywheel thing is more like a maitnace thing while the engine is out.....planned on rebuilding the engine im pulling out but taking my time(not to long though)on it....pistons and rods are like 1300 for the arias and pauter combo(boom06).....plus labor and many other parts......
(paying 800 bucks for a "low"mi jdm engine delivered to my doorstep..30-40K miles supposedly...??)when that shortblock is ready i plan((limb))on taking that one out pulling off any mods-upgrades and slapping them on...i think that rebuild will probably cost about 4-5 grand at the end....???am i right???(anyone)
 
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K1 rods are cheaper than Pauter but are only rated for around 400HP. I would choose Wiseco pistons over Arias since Arias has had a few problems in the past(cracked pistons, clearance issues with oil jets and causing damage) and I have not heard any problems with Wiseco ever. Also, if you can find a reputable machine shop in your area with good pricing, you won't spend anywhere near 4-5 grand on a rebuild. Of course, this is just for the rebuild, not other mods+rebuild
 
I have K1's and Wiseco's. its honestly the best set-up for the money. There is no way you can really max out K1's on the FSDE unless you got mad bills.
 
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