MSPM1chele's DD/RTA/NASA/SCCA Thread

saving the unsprung weight would be INFINITELY more effective. but I believe her class doesn't allow that.

is hers a street car? she tracks it. Its worth it man dont be stupid. and she lives in hot weather, its worth it even more to let some heat escape the motor bay.

And they have 3 hoods. and i wound never suggest the stock replacement without no scoops or anything because that isn't worth it. but either of the 2 with scoops is good. Don't be stupid man....

yes she tracks it, but you'd get more weight loss by removing the seats than switching to a CF trunk and hood... my point is the weight differential in a steel-chassis car is insignificant.

don't be stupid? don't be mean!
 
I thought I was the only one that didn't care for CF

oh michele <3

=p
 
you guys all have a point. but once again the only reason i'd do the CF is for the ventilation. weight savings does count but in my situation it is not super necessary (i have full interior). as for WHICH hood, i fell into a really good deal with the evo hood. i hate the way it looks, but once again, it'd only be for the track.

as for the drop with the springs, i dont even remember, but you couldnt fit a finger between the wheel and the fender all around.


more pix to come soon of my FMIC pipe routing and maybe some interior shots. :]
 
she would be better off buying lightened rims over the racing harts. it might be a little more expensive but the racing harts are what, 22lb? she could get a set of 17 lb wheels, save the same amount of weight but get better performace (minimally but it still counts) since its on the drivetrain, and suspension for that matter.

as far as weight savings go,
bodywork: 15lb savings on sprung weight for a hood... maybe?
flywheel: fidanza is 7lb, stocker is like 19... thats 12lb savings on the sprung weight AND the drivetrain
wheels: -5 per wheel, so thats 20 pounds on the unsprung weight and 10 on the drivetrain

so yeah in racing every pound counts, but if youre not on a 300 million dollar F1 budget theres WAY better places to do it than CF body panels.

i have the flywheel :] and its 7.5 lbs ;]
 
so youre gonna get the lightened rims, right? PF01's are 17.5lb in 16's... im sure if you looked for lightened ones from places that sell actual track rims you can get lighter than what they have on tire rack...
 
so youre gonna get the lightened rims, right? PF01's are 17.5lb in 16's... im sure if you looked for lightened ones from places that sell actual track rims you can get lighter than what they have on tire rack...

im going to work on getting my cooling under control/efficient before i throw over 1k into wheels and tires. being as if the car cant stay cool, lightened wheels wont do me any good.
 
im going to work on getting my cooling under control/efficient before i throw over 1k into wheels and tires. being as if the car cant stay cool, lightened wheels wont do me any good.

Corksport or the group buy from doc b racing for an aluminum radiator.
 
i just stumbled on something about prodigy's car - he runs miata wheels, which are a hare over 10lb each. those are some racing rims right there...
cooling first, but miata wheels second
 
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MazdaManiac's Custom FMIC Piping/Kit on MSPM1chele's MSP

Okay so after several requests to see my routing on my FMIC I have decided to make this post. As you will see in the pictures, some cutting was done to the "softer" part of the subframe to get a direct route for better efficiency. (oh- and sorry for the dirty engine bay :P)

Basic picture of the routing; note the STRAIGHT pipe from the throttle body, no bends til the coupler to the intercooler's end tank
IMG_1613.jpg


The whole point of this thread is to show how I got 90* bends straight from the intercooler end tanks shown here:

HOTSIDE (LFT)
IMG_1598.jpg


COLDSIDE (RT)
IMG_1599.jpg



First "hole" on the cold side meeting the FMIC with 1 90* bend
IMG_1610.jpg


The hot side 90* bend, you can see it clearly.
IMG_1595.jpg


Top of the hotside, you can see it goes straight down to the 90* from the end tank
IMG_1626.jpg


IMG_1627.jpg


And another angle
IMG_1604.jpg


IMG_1606.jpg


IMG_1607.jpg



Here's an idea of the clearance:
IMG_1623.jpg



Hopefully that answers most of your guys' questions. If you're still confused on what the point is; the difference between this kit and all others is that it has the least amount of bends possible. For example, this kit:

DSC02583.jpg


has a much longer routing.

/the end! :]
 
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Nice, the way you ran it is similar to how the turbolife is.

You should grind down your cuts to smooth them out and Paint them after.
 
i just stumbled on something about prodigy's car - he runs miata wheels, which are a hare over 10lb each. those are some racing rims right there...
cooling first, but miata wheels second

im assuming they're mazdaspeed miata rims? bc i thought all miata's are 4 lug?

Nice, the way you ran it is similar to how the turbolife is.

You should grind down your cuts to smooth them out and Paint them after.
thanks :] and as for grinding and painting...
ehhhh.. you really cant see em... its not a show car :P

where did u get that kit? i could use some of that piping

MazdaManiac custom kit.
 
you know i think you're right... i went back to that pic and it looked like his were in fact 4lug. i forgot about that, it did seem too easy though. Anyways he would be the guy to ask...
 

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