MSP Won't Turn Over

N

normandy2013

Member
Hey folks I shorten my spark plug gaps from .44 to .28-.30 new NGK-ZFR6F-11...I believed I heard some knocking while warming up my MSP, by not being familiar to the sound I began to drive off for about 5 min and then all of the sudden my MSP shut off and wont run.
I assumed that maybe I damaged my spark plugs by maybe not "correctly" shortening the plugs gap so I just replaced them with new ones and installed them. I tried to crack again but it just wont turn over.
I am thinking about just replacing my spark plug wires and ignition coils and see if that helps.
Any thought? Could the engine be damaged or simply my ignition.

I am doing a lot of reading about Detonation,Pre-Igntion, Burnt Valves...doesn't look good
 
-Will the starter engage?
-If so will the car even attempt to start while cranking?
If not then we need to rule out if your even getting fire at all, to do that you can pull the plug and coil out and without touching the plug and most likely using a rubber glove have someone crank engine and see if the spark is igniting. (This is provided that the coils do not ground to the valve cover, which I dont think they do since its alum.)
-if you do not have fire, then this narrows it down a little
-If you do have fire lets move to fuel, need to pull the line off the rail and put it into a jar or cup and turn key on and make sure your getting fuel to rail. Odds of 4 bad injectors is unlikely. But fuel pump maybe.
-Next in line is timing, check voltage and or ohms i=on crank and cam sensors as to these cane cause all crank and no start.

Fuel, fire, and time is all a car needs to run. How well it runs is another story, but should run. However shortening the gap could have cause internal damage, I would try these simple check before dumping any more money in the car. After those are check I would recommend a compression test. Sorry for not filling in all the little details, im still learning these cars myself, but I really hope this helps at least a little. I understand getting responses here can be difficult.

On a side note, might I ask why you shortened the gap? I really have not heard of anyone doing that with a car of this type. With all cars you want to plan for worse and hope for the best. From your description I feel that internal parts have been damaged and the three steps above may not help, but they will rule out those three items at least. Gook luck bud!
 
Ignore why I asked about the gap, just looked it up and the gap you used was correct. Sorry about that stupid question.
 
spark plug gap wont have anything to do with a no crank condition. where you in boost when it shut off or just cruising or idling?

No crank condition is cause only by a few things: faulty starting system (battery, starter, terminals, relay/fuse) and mechanical failure(hydrolocking, seizing, timing belt)

:( well start trouble shooting. start checking the simplest things

How does your oil look
Any visible leaks that didn't exists before
battery voltage
battery terminal clean and tight
inspect the engine grounds, check for rust or damage
remove your spark plugs and inspect them, look into the cylinder see if there is any thing strange like marks on the top of the piston
unplug the coils from the harness, disconnect the fuel injectors
check with a multimeter for voltage drop when you try to turn it over.

if all that checks out ok but still doesn't crank

try to remove the top section of timing cover if you cant remove the valve cover and check the timing belt and any damage.
if everything looks ok use a socket and wrench and try turning it over the engine by hand. with the spark plugs removed there shouldn't be much resistance

if you cant move the engine over by hand there is a major mechanical failure
If its easily turned over remove the starter and have it bench tested.
 
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That doesn't sound good at all, I hope it is something simple. If the cars does crank over but not fire I would check the timing belt for sure.
 
Hehe, Well I got the new ignition coils and spark plug wires, and no success. One of the shop guys was sorta helping me out, he doesn't see anything wrong... New spark plugs, wires, and ignition coils, fuel pump PSI is alive, no blown fuses
He says there's nothing wrong with the engine, no burnt valves I insisted, (I might do a compression test after I get the purchase the tester from Advance Auto), He really feels and I as well that it is a timing issue. There was 1 puff out the exhaust but thats all. He wants them to check it out for $50-$100, diagnostic and its waived if they fix it. I am tight on budget right now, not sure what I should do...
Meanwhile Ill be doing research about timing and how to get it fixed.
 
I do have the 200+ toolkit to do it but I would need to buy more such as timing light and more stuff, I think im just gonna let the guys take over at the local shop since it is my daily :P, looks like I'll have to use daddys car in the meantime, I just need to rob a bank real quick, acquire some some cash and pay these fools
 
You don't need a timing light to do the belt, but if you aren't experienced I would let a shop do it. Sounds to me like the timing belt broke.
 
Whattt nahhhh I really don't think it could be the timing belt, cauz wouldn't I hear it around the area, I feel like its the ignition timing...I meant a timing light with the crankshaft, but yea, Im just gonna have the shop take care of it :P
I do have close to 170k on the car/engine damn this is grandpa right now, I am not even sure if the previous owner changed the timing belt/waterpump...When I get a s*** ton of $$$ I wanna get a forged short block and try to do an engine bay shave lolll maybe...or just get an evo/sti lollll
 
Hey hornsfan10609 I just got a call the tech and he said the timing belt broke...lol your right man, He tells me that your valves/pistons could be damaged... its a 50/50 chance...Do I tell him to continue to replace,belt, waterpump...etc to get it up and running for ~$900?
 
the fs-de engine is non- interference engine which means if your timing belt breaks, your internals are all just fine and will not be damaged. I say just replace the timing belt, water pump, and hardware ( tensioner and idler, etc...) engine should be just fine.
 
There is a chance the valves could be bent, it happened to my friend's MSP a couple months ago. Replace the belt and have them do a compression test.

$900 for a timing belt and water pump is A LOT, we didn't even charge that much at the dealership!!
 
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Oh Christ, I'm a tiny bit worried, Yea he said around $900 something, should I ask what is the price break down of the parts and how much they charge for labor ? I was told $900 too a couple times with a couple different cars 01' MP3, 03' VW Jetta, and 93 Accord lol... I am in the DC area is that roughly standard ? What do you guys charge ?
 
I haven't worked at a dealer in quite a while but it was in the $750-800 range I want to say.
 
Lol give me 100 bucks and I'll trow my old belt in there with 20k mile just to see of it works and ill compression test it
 
Oh I see, hmm, I gave them the okay a few hours ago they said it will be done tomorrow afternoon, I don't know the outcome lol
Nextime ap123 >.>
Ayee ap123 do you go to the car meet in springfield on mondays or what ?!
 
damn so much money

naw ive never gone to that meet, i live in sterling. The only meet i attend is the sterling chick-fil-a meet in sterling during the summer.
 
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