MSP oil pressure install

[evolv]

okay first, don't post "do a search", I have been doing that for a freaken hour now, still no correct answer.

Any one with a MSP that has installed an Autometer Electric Oil Pressure Guage, or installed one into an MSP please help.

What wire did you hook up the ignition wire from the guage to???

thats it... thanks in advance

 

[P5 Rally]

take the cover off the steering column and find the ignition harness (a bunch of thick wires and the harness is clipped to the ignition switch) ...
now that you found it, locate a red and black wire...that is the '2nd ignition' positon this is position that turns on the other gauges and radio and provides a 12v switched source.

Please solder the wires together

 

[II-Savy]

okay first, don't post "do a search", I have been doing that for a freaken hour now, still no correct answer.

Any one with a MSP that has installed an Autometer Electric Oil Pressure Guage, or installed one into an MSP please help.

What wire did you hook up the ignition wire from the guage to???

thats it... thanks in advance

I JUST installed one and I used a power source from the drivers kick panal fuse panal. There is one spot in there with no fuse. I made myself a fuse tap and ran a fused line to the gauge.

 

[byohndspeed]

I JUST installed one and I used a power source from the drivers kick panal fuse panal. There is one spot in there with no fuse. I made myself a fuse tap and ran a fused line to the gauge.

i did the same..if you dont want to do that you can always go to the alarm harness, its labled..

 

[flat_black]

I purchaced a very odd type of fuse tap device. It's a little block with two spots for fuses. Plugged it into the socket for the meters power (Driver's side kick panel, back of the panel reads 'METER' in the slot, and it's a 10A fuse), and crimped the wire end onto the wire for the ignition. Done. I THINK it was made by Painless Wiring, but I'm not sure.

 

[evolv]

Excellent, all connected and working great. I opted to use a fast connect rather then soldering. I was a little intimidated by the lack of room for soldering. My connection seems solid and all is working well. I'll keep my fingers crossed on it staying connected.

When I started the car the alarm went off, expected considering I disconnected the battery and unpluged the harness for easy access.

Here are my pressure reading; let me know if they seem wrong;

At idle engine cold = 40psi aprox

at idle, engine warm = 20psi aprox

driving, low to high rpm's = 40-60 psi aprox.

thanks everyone for your quick responses, I looked and looked for that damn wire, (not realizing it was under the steering column covers) started to wonder if I had the correct color code.

 

[byohndspeed]

yup sounds about what i get..

 

[Ehawley]

How did you end up fitting the sending unit in there? I know there are threads on putting in T's and stuff, just curious how you did it.

 

[flat_black]

Yep... Those pressures sound right... You'll notice, though, when you let the car heat up considerably (30+ minutes of driving, or so), the pressure at idle will dip as low as 15ish PSI, and driving around, when cold, you'll see a max of 75(!), and when hot, you probably won't top 50 by much.

 

[evolv]

How did you end up fitting the sending unit in there? I know there are threads on putting in T's and stuff, just curious how you did it.

First I took out the mazda sending unit.

I got a nipple (2 male ends) 1/8" npt at one end and 1/8" bspt at the other end. BSPT end into the block. (its the tapered end) and used liquid pipe thread at all fittings.

Then I got a T-fitting (3x1/8" npt) and threaded that into the nipple so that the T was sideways.

Then stright out from the T, I threaded the Autometer sending unit and off the side of the T (towards the drivers side) I threaded Mazda's sending unit.

Hooked up the wires and strapped them down.

You could probably do this project without having to do an oil change as no oil will spill out of the block, but since I was doing a change anyways, I did it with the filter out of the way. (more room) There is also a metal bracket (held on with 4 bolts) under the car which I removed to give more room.

Everything fits very well, unfortunately I didn't take a picture (DOH) so here is a fast photoshop drawning. I should have played more with crayons when I was a youngen...LOL

 

[JasonMSP]

Where did you get the "nipple" and the "T" adapter from?<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_1187889", true); </SCRIPT>

 

[msp4you]

Link for a how to vtec line install from c-speed racing.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec3.php

You can view that link if you guys need info on it.

Best thing is to NOT use the T however.

Since it's a 4 cylinder engine and there is a lot of vibration it's best to actualy run a -an fitting from the block out to the firewall, secure it there with a distribution block at the end. You would then hook up your sending units to the distribution block.

What this will prevent is hanging these huge jalopy's off the back of the engine block and risk stripping the threads out of the back of the block causing a dramatic loss of oil to the engine and risk blowing it up.

Hey, it's your engine though.

 

[evolv]

Well if that happens, atleast I have a pressure gauge that will tell me I'm losing my oil.

I suppose if someone were worried about that, they could create a metal support and attach it to the metal straping that sits directy below the sender. Although I cannot imaging how threads would tear apart from attaching maybe 1 lb of stuff to the block. It's metal not plastic and thats the idea behind using BSPT threading / tapered threading provides better sealing and fitment then stright threading does.

I picked up the nipple and T from an automotive hardware store. They are very standard parts.

 

[P5 Rally]

i grabbed some SS fittings....those bad boys are as strong as hell and the sender is installed pointing down...in theory minimixing momentum forces that would be greater if it was installed on the end of the T.

BTW....i'm getting SS lines to remotly mount the sucker!!

 

[II-Savy]

yes guys be very careful....the brass fitting as complete s***. They WILL NOT hold the weight of the Stock sender, the aftermarketsender AND the T. SS is the way to go. I learned the hard way. My brass adapter snapped off and I lost a s*** load of oil and was almost in big trouble. I bought another brass fitting and JUST went with the autometer (aftermarket) sender only. It's been fine. The problem is the weight of the whole assembly resting on only the brass adapter. Think about holding 10 lbs in your hand....now extend your arm....it's much heavier. Eventually it will break off from the weight and the fact that it sticks far out. PM me if you have any questions.

 

[msp4you]

yes guys be very careful....the brass fitting as complete s***. They WILL NOT hold the weight of the Stock sender, the aftermarketsender AND the T. SS is the way to go. I learned the hard way. My brass adapter snapped off and I lost a s*** load of oil and was almost in big trouble. I bought another brass fitting and JUST went with the autometer (aftermarket) sender only. It's been fine. The problem is the weight of the whole assembly resting on only the brass adapter. Think about holding 10 lbs in your hand....now extend your arm....it's much heavier. Eventually it will break off from the weight and the fact that it sticks far out. PM me if you have any questions.

Glad you posted since there's a lot of non believers out there

I see both the brass t's break and the threads from the block strip out which is even worse because then what do you do? Retap it with a larger diameter?

BTW, sucks you had to learn it the hard way.

 

[II-Savy]

Glad you posted since there's a lot of non believers out there

I see both the brass t's break and the threads from the block strip out which is even worse because then what do you do? Retap it with a larger diameter?

BTW, sucks you had to learn it the hard way.

Yea...people should be careful. Our engines move a ton and with the weight situation it could be bad. I would go SS or bag the stock oil sender. After all what do you really need it for? The autometer sender will show the pressure going down. The reading is pretty consistent from the gauge so you should be able to see trouble way before the stock light would light up.

 

[flat_black]

I have a brass fitting on mine, but just an NPT to BSP adapter; No tee or extension, since the oil pressure light in the car is totally useless. Heh. You don't get the oil pressure warning light if it's not plugged in, as it only triggers the light when it gets a signal, rather than coming on when it loses it's signal, as an FYI.

 

[II-Savy]

I have a brass fitting on mine, but just an NPT to BSP adapter; No tee or extension, since the oil pressure light in the car is totally useless. Heh. You don't get the oil pressure warning light if it's not plugged in, as it only triggers the light when it gets a signal, rather than coming on when it loses it's signal, as an FYI.

Yes exactly. It throws a ground when it hits 5psi I believe.

 

[hazeXban]

so can you get these SS fittings at an auto store as well?