MS3 oil?

redspeed said:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

I use synthetic and I notice that at 5k miles intervals the oil is not as dark, like the conventional oil at 3k miles. It's not rally that expensive if you know were to buy.

Did you happen to read the very end of the Synthetic paragraph?
It clearly states a test was done with NY taxis and regardless of the oil used all cars in test showed the same amount of engine wear after a certain test period with both Regular oil and synthetic...........
So what does that tell you.
 
justa4banger said:
Did you happen to read the very end of the Synthetic paragraph?
It clearly states a test was done with NY taxis and regardless of the oil used all cars in test showed the same amount of engine wear after a certain test period with both Regular oil and synthetic...........
So what does that tell you.

Calm down boss! :rolleyes:
All I'm trying to do is to share some info. All that high temp. in a turbo engine is more reason for me to get synthetic. ALL engines are going to wear regardless, Synthetic is not a magic cure but it helps.
 
I once saw a show at 1:00 in the morning where they tested 2 engines, one with synthetic oil and one with petroleum based oil. The synthetic oil won can't remember the brand, but they did throw in a free chamois and funnel wit 6 qts....
 
JUST SAY NOOOOOOOO to MOBIL1

they actually downgraded their oil.

Go with Amsoil or Royal Purple <-- The only 2 good synthetics out anymore
 
Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F.

Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. In fact, synthetic oils are now available with viscosity ratings as low as 0W-30, as in Mobil 1's new Tri-Synthetic blend or Castrol Formula SLX. These oils flow more than seven times faster than a conventional 5W-30 motor oil during initial start-up, yet at normal operating temperatures act like a regular Grade 30 oil.

An 0W-30 synthetic oil is capable of pumping easily at -62 degrees F and flowing at even lower temperatures. Conventional oils are essentially frozen solid at that temperature, so there's simply no conventional equivalent to this new grade. There are 5W-30 conventional and synthetic oils, but even here, the synthetic has a real-world advantage: Mobil 1's 5W-30 will pump at -58-degrees F, compared to about -35-degrees F for a conventional oil.

----2007 Car Craft, a PRIMEDIA publication. All rights reserved. WEB-023

In short....synthetics better withstand the searing temperatures of a turbocharged engine, leave behind fewer (if any) deposits when heated, and flow better in extreme cold temperatures. There's a reason so many performance car manufacturers fill their vehicles with Mobil1 from the factory.

Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, Escalade, XLR, XLR-V, SRX, STS and STS-V
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10

Anything good enough for Porsche, Bentley, Aston Martin and AMG is good enough for me.
 
A big factor in oil getting black and dirty is combustion gases blowing by the piston rings.

I'd be willing to bet a thousand dollars if one were to take any engine (NA or turbo) that blacked up the oil relatively quickly and compared it to one that took longer to dirty the oil, one would find that the engione that made the oil dirty more quickly had worse compression.

Change the engine oil every ~3000 miles. Change the tranny oil every ~50000 - 75000. Hmmmm . . . interesteing . . . no combustion going on in the tranny. . .

I plan on running synthetic in the winter for those morning cold starts when normal oil is about the consistency of cold pancake syrup. Although I ran petro based oil in my Cavalier in the winter which had 155000 miles on it and never threw a rod or burnt oil, so what the hell do I know about petro vs. synthetic. (uhm)
 
Ive got three words you should live by with a forced inducted engine...

Amsoil or Royal Purple
 
I am going 5k for my Mobil 1 changes since it has been suggested to me it can go 7500 but 5k should be about right for assurance.


My friends dad is a Amsoil dealer so he can sell him self s*** at cost but its funny how he spends all that money then gets rid of the car every 2-3yrs. My Mobil 1 will be just fine in the 3 years or less that I plan on keeping any car.
 
Personaly ill go two oil change periods before i change over too mobil one so as to aid in the break in process. I always like the story of the mercadese AMG engine tore apart after 100,000 miles with virtualy no ware. fully synthetic being chemiacly made is all uniform and flows smother then dinosore fluid, which isnt as uniform from differing rates of decay and all.
 
Just changed out my break in oil at about 2800 since I wanted to put 3k on it for before I switched to Mobil 1.

The dealer did it and it took a little less then the 6qts that I brought with me they said. I checked it at the dealer and it seamed dead on with the Max fill line but when I got home it is now just above it. I was told by a friends dad that a 1/4 qt extra wont hurt anything and no worries but I thought I would ask around here.

On the dip stick the oil reads above the 2nd eyelet where it says "MAX" and is even with the the letter "A". That amounts to about 1/4 inch above the eyelet.

What do you guys think?

I am guessing some of the old oil was still up in the engine from having drove the car from the parking space to the actual stall where they change it. This would then be the reason not 100% oil was out of the engine and it took just under 6qts to fill it.

I've always put conventional in my vehicles every 3k. Although I've never owned a car that can perform like the MS3 until now....what I really wanted to clarify was...

You purchased 6 quarts of MBL1, brought it to the dealer and they changed it? They will do that?! How much money did you save by not having them put their synthetic oil in the car?

The dealer usually charges me $30 for a conventional oil change. What did you pay?

Thanks...and I am considering synthetic, I'm in New England, it gets cold in the winter and hot in the summer...
 
im running chevron supreme right now and up till sround 6k or so then im going with synthetic. i have havoline, penzoil platinum and valvoline synthetics - enough for around 50,000 miles. i buy them when they go on sale and paid under $3 a quart for them.
 
I bring my own oil in for the dealer to change. On this MS3, i really dont want to dick around with the engine cover, the oil filter setup and the hassel. So, it costs me $15 to have them do it with my oil. Besides the fact i build a relationship with the dealership since my car is modded.

Synthetic oil helps, anyone who says otherwise is cheap and full of s***. Ive had plenty of performance cars/trucks and have torn engines down after 150K... there is a difference between an engine using synthetic and one that doesnt...
 
mobil 1 syn is s*** for turbo cars, it gets dirty twice as fast as any oil and it disapears twice as fast. on my highly modded suby i always used royal purple sense day one with very little oil consumption. the first time i tried using M1 to save money and still have synthetic i was a 1 and1/2 qts low by the end of the first day!!!! i drove the car hard for a few hours but damn !!! and everysense that change to mobile one my motor continued to burn oil like you wouldnt believe!! i will never ever use mobil 1 syn again.
 
i use AMSOIL on all my cars and on the MS3, I change the oil every 2.5k to 3k miles. I traded in a Focus last month for another car and two different people at the dealership mentioned that I "take care of my cars" because of the fact that I used AMSOIL synthetic. Must have been engrained in their heads that owners that use AMSOIL synthetic oil really take care of their cars....
 
ha i bring oil and filter and only pay 6 to have it changed..well worth it...i use brad penn gt1 10-30 in the summer and castrol syntec 5-40 in the winter...ya gotta rememeber the 30-40% mark up on everything sold so ya bring the oil ya save the mark up
 

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