MS3 Boost Gauge Install

BluMicaR says
"just bypassed all the possible pain in the ass steps. I did NOT want to take my radio out and dash apart!"

I think the dimmer wire runs down to where u ran it in the kick panel, we just need to find out which one it is. Anyone know, I'd Hate to have that thing blaring in my face on a really long road trip, though I guess it would be easy enough to install a hidden dimmer somewhere or just a complete on/off switch for those rare situations. (Thinking out loud, sorry)
Tom

Does yours automatically change from one color to another when you turn on the lights or is it always same color and brightness.
Later,
Tom
 
BluMicaR says
"just bypassed all the possible pain in the ass steps. I did NOT want to take my radio out and dash apart!"

I think the dimmer wire runs down to where u ran it in the kick panel, we just need to find out which one it is. Anyone know, I'd Hate to have that thing blaring in my face on a really long road trip, though I guess it would be easy enough to install a hidden dimmer somewhere or just a complete on/off switch for those rare situations. (Thinking out loud, sorry)
Tom

Does yours automatically change from one color to another when you turn on the lights or is it always same color and brightness.
Later,
Tom

I /could/ have made it white with lights off, amber when on, or amber when off, white when on - but I just made it amber all the time, as the lights are amber all the time. I thought white would've looked oddly out of place. Finding the wire is the thing as per the dimmer... You'd need access to a wiring diagram/manual, I think they're about $80 from Mazda as I called about them, I'm getting one in November when I have more disposable cash. Right now I just got my intake, gauge and pod, waiting on set of custom leather boots/armrest, have my short-shifter, AND I'm buying a ring next week... Right before we leave for a week-long vacation. So I'm a leeeeetle short right now. (sssh) That next-to-last part's a secret still. :)
 
i installed my gauge and your write up helped me alot with removing s*** from the glove box, the gauge works but i havent got the wiring correct yet, i havent found the constant so that i c an save peak warning and have the gauge perform clsoing ceremony. I also blew a fuse and need to replace it 2moro before i can put my car back 2gether. it seriosuly looks like someone stolle everything related to the dash. i have a pretty good spot to the right of the steering column on top.
 
i installed my gauge and your write up helped me alot with removing s*** from the glove box, the gauge works but i havent got the wiring correct yet, i havent found the constant so that i c an save peak warning and have the gauge perform clsoing ceremony. I also blew a fuse and need to replace it 2moro before i can put my car back 2gether. it seriosuly looks like someone stolle everything related to the dash. i have a pretty good spot to the right of the steering column on top.

yea i had my dash apart for a day or two. i just didnt have time to do it all in one go so it looked similar to yours im sure. i looked at it and was like....oooooh nooooooo! lol.
 
yea i had my dash apart for a day or two. i just didnt have time to do it all in one go so it looked similar to yours im sure. i looked at it and was like....oooooh nooooooo! lol.


This is TOTALLY why I went with the left side, through the hood pull and tapping wire cluster in the kick panel by the dead pedal. Pulling dash apart = pain in my m/f ass!
 
its not really a big pain in the ass....it just looks like someone totally ripped your whole dash off. it takes no more than 20 mins to get it all off...plus its easier to run the wires...it was for the triple dash pod from lotek anyway.
 
its not hard its just funny, people proly think i got jacked, i still have the glove box in the back seat because i blew a fuse and im going to get one today. The gauge works fine and its cool knowing what my car puts down psi wise. i have a nice spot im gona take pcis when my car isnt stripped.
 
you think the glove box is big enough or what? when i saw it brand new i was like damn thats def a huge glove box. then i took it out and was like WTF?!?! its like a spare bedroom. lol.
 
thats where i smuggle the mexicans into the country. i hide them in my glove box. i mean....who the **** would look in there for people?
 
i couldnt believe it. its the biggest thing ive ever seen. the first few times i got confused on whether i was opening my hatch or the glove box.
 
Has anyone done this install recently and taken some pictures? If not, can anyone take some pics of the after product where you put T connector in for the boost/vacuum hose in the engine bay and routing?
 
Yea it's not that hard just take your time the parking light wire is going to be Orange with silver dots to the Amber/orange wire and I used the cig lighter for my 12V/Red wire and the one of the floor nuts for a ground(if you know what I mean) I have to go back to see where I connected the white wire. I posted it some where on this site ;)



Has anyone done this install recently and taken some pictures? If not, can anyone take some pics of the after product where you put T connector in for the boost/vacuum hose in the engine bay and routing?


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Oh Hell, it really aint any harder that what your talking about down there if you have to take you GB out and radio. Plus all your wires are right there. And gezz if you have to run a vac line it to your car just PM me and I have an auto meter with peak hold and warning set I can let you get pretty cheap.

I'd say just leave 4 hours to yourself and you should be good, not including time to prime and paint the pod. Taking the a-pillar off is about 10m the very first time, you want to be careful and not hurt any of the interior of course. Then you attach the pod to your pillar, and drill a hole for wires, put the gauge in there, and reattach the pillar, running wires down the door frame plastic to the kick panel outlet (there's a channel running down the frame you'll see). Use a hanger to pull the wires down from the top out the bottom by your cable of wires under the kick panel. The rest is clipping into the wires I mentioned with your power/acc wires for the gauge. Next is getting your sender hooked into the vacuum line by the BPV and mounted. You'll want to pull the battery out and the IC cover first. Then look for the rubber grommet around the hood pull and run wire (and vac line if you are doing a manual) through there. I think an electrical gauge is easier because you don't have to run any vacuum hose other than in the engine bay to the sender. If you leave 4 hours it won't take that long, more than likely, but it gives you time to look at everything you're going to do and plan and be 'familiar' with the car so you don't scar your $25k baby. Someone else asked if you could put it in the dimmer, I don't know. Maybe? You'd probably need a wiring manual/diagram; I think all 'dimming' is works by reducing voltage to the bulbs, so I don't see why not if that's correct. My way just bypassed all the possible pain in the ass steps. I did NOT want to take my radio out and dash apart!
 
I just installed my Prosport Elec. Boost/Peak this weekend. After searching the boards I found some really great information. I found that running the sender wires throught the hood release grommet was the easier way into the car. I just used a coat hanger, poked it from the inside to the outside and pulled the wires back through. Also get "add a circuits" from autozone and tap into the fuse box. All together I think the job took about two hours. Do the searched to find what fuses to tap. Sorry I was too lazy to take pics.

I do have one question for MS38449: Do we need to change the tubing like you did or will the tubing that came withe the gauge work? Also, I cut the vaccuum tube more toward the intercooler, under the cover. The tube does touch the aluminum piece that the BPV is connected to. Will heat be a problem? Thanks.
 
Hey I have a question for everyone with a boost gauge:

My 'stock' (with the gauge) clear plastic (like a fishtank) tubing is going 'flat', however I have had zero issues in the cabin with my gauge reading. Should I replace the tubing to/from my sender unit in the hood, or will it be fine?
 
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