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MPI tuning
- Thread starter Jeph
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Jeph said:It was running good. Then it goes toally lean for no apparant reason
It was running good with the lower numbers? I dunno, the main thing you want is the AFR on the SW to cycle between 14-15 at most while cruising around. You don't want it to dip in the 13's or much higher then the 15's or you may get a CEL after some time. It's not the cold either because I drove many a 10 degree day's plus windsheer back in MD and it ran smooth. Maybe you are "overtuning"???
Do you have a datalog of what you are talking about? Maybe do a log starting from a stop, dirving non boost to about 3rd, cruising in between and alos in 3rd so we can see how the AFR and voltage cycles.
So I just saw your post in the EMS thread. did you ever do what I asked about the AFR? Did someone ever solder up all your wires? When I left your car the last time, I left the wires just twisted together. I saw problems in your map that would throw the CEL. They are simple to fix. It also sounds like you were trying to "overtune" it. Making a ton of changes every 10 minutes just cornfuses the ECU. Have you started from scratch, meaning reset the ECU, get the analog voltage where it needs to be and just driving the car around to get some cycles on it. Then once tha'ts done, tune the boost and see what happens.
You should NOT need to tune the non boost area, like I think you are doing. You set the non boost area and leave it alone. If you are messing with it, then you are "overtuning". The MPI DOES NOT control the idle directly, so if the idle was messed up, it was because you had the wrong voltage, either too high or low, so the ECU was trying to compensate and threw a CEL. Also, while cruising, you do not want the AFR to cycle as much as yours was doing. Of course the car will run like crap if you are messing with it too much.
When you get a chance, call me and I'll walk you through getting a decent tune on it. We will FIRST start on a fresh ECU reset. If you want to disconnect the puple wires, then that will make the TM switch be so smooth. You can do this because you have xtra injectors. I told Beau this, but he wanted them hooked up so you could run something like 13-15psi, I don't remember what the exact number was. Since you only have 1 xtra injector, I don't know what the limit would be. But spending more money on a standalone will not ease your headache of tuning. You will have more tuning to do on that.
I know you are frustrated, but it is quite capable of having a great tune and not throwing any codes as long as the car is running right, like it was when I tuned it here.
And if 505zoom see's this, yes I hooked it up and it WAS hooked up right, just not soldered, because we were trying to troubleshoot another non MPI related issue, like the cams being timed 180 degree's off. The car ran like crap and of course Beau blamed the MPI, so I went over there at midnight to rip it out and come to find out, the cams were off. So I just twisted the wires together and told Beau that they can finish it. So nice try buddy!
You should NOT need to tune the non boost area, like I think you are doing. You set the non boost area and leave it alone. If you are messing with it, then you are "overtuning". The MPI DOES NOT control the idle directly, so if the idle was messed up, it was because you had the wrong voltage, either too high or low, so the ECU was trying to compensate and threw a CEL. Also, while cruising, you do not want the AFR to cycle as much as yours was doing. Of course the car will run like crap if you are messing with it too much.
When you get a chance, call me and I'll walk you through getting a decent tune on it. We will FIRST start on a fresh ECU reset. If you want to disconnect the puple wires, then that will make the TM switch be so smooth. You can do this because you have xtra injectors. I told Beau this, but he wanted them hooked up so you could run something like 13-15psi, I don't remember what the exact number was. Since you only have 1 xtra injector, I don't know what the limit would be. But spending more money on a standalone will not ease your headache of tuning. You will have more tuning to do on that.
I know you are frustrated, but it is quite capable of having a great tune and not throwing any codes as long as the car is running right, like it was when I tuned it here.
And if 505zoom see's this, yes I hooked it up and it WAS hooked up right, just not soldered, because we were trying to troubleshoot another non MPI related issue, like the cams being timed 180 degree's off. The car ran like crap and of course Beau blamed the MPI, so I went over there at midnight to rip it out and come to find out, the cams were off. So I just twisted the wires together and told Beau that they can finish it. So nice try buddy!
I waited so long to post in that thread because I knew you were trying to help me, and i know that when it runs right it runs great. But it won't hold a tune, One night it'll be perfect, the next lean, and then rich another.
I did reset my ecu, took all the values out of the first 3 columns so it should've driven like stock out of boost correct? Well 2 nights later i'm stranded on the side of the road and i can't even get it to idle. I'll post you my datalog from that night, but its crazy. The A/F in the software looks like its bouncing between rich and lean extremely fast, but my wideband is pegged lean. The only way it was driveable was if i ran in boost the whole time which you can't do just cruising home.
I refuse to call nick because i felt he always treated me like someone less than human for having Beau do my car. How long has this thread been in this section? I know he's seen it, just hasn't bothered to provide his input.
I did reset my ecu, took all the values out of the first 3 columns so it should've driven like stock out of boost correct? Well 2 nights later i'm stranded on the side of the road and i can't even get it to idle. I'll post you my datalog from that night, but its crazy. The A/F in the software looks like its bouncing between rich and lean extremely fast, but my wideband is pegged lean. The only way it was driveable was if i ran in boost the whole time which you can't do just cruising home.
I refuse to call nick because i felt he always treated me like someone less than human for having Beau do my car. How long has this thread been in this section? I know he's seen it, just hasn't bothered to provide his input.
Jeph said:I waited so long to post in that thread because I knew you were trying to help me, and i know that when it runs right it runs great. But it won't hold a tune, One night it'll be perfect, the next lean, and then rich another.
I did reset my ecu, took all the values out of the first 3 columns so it should've driven like stock out of boost correct? Well 2 nights later i'm stranded on the side of the road and i can't even get it to idle. I'll post you my datalog from that night, but its crazy. The A/F in the software looks like its bouncing between rich and lean extremely fast, but my wideband is pegged lean. The only way it was driveable was if i ran in boost the whole time which you can't do just cruising home.
I refuse to call nick because i felt he always treated me like someone less than human for having Beau do my car. How long has this thread been in this section? I know he's seen it, just hasn't bothered to provide his input.
Not to defend Nick, but he knows I was trying to help. Now with your map, it doesn't sound right as you already know. But it can be done right. If you want to get it running right, give me a call and I will try my best. I don't remember if I changed anything in your TM, but if I did, it may have been wrong. It's up to you as to what you want to do. I would like to see you get it running, the best thing I can say is to call me and we can work on it together. It's so hard to do "internet tuning" and also hard for phone tuning, but at least the phone gives me realtime feedback.
Did you fix the xtra injector clip? That needs to work all the time. If not, get it fixed or find a way to make it work so you know that injector will work all the time. Do you know if the wires were all soldered up? is your ECU accessable or mounted up?
Oh yeah, if you have something to say, don't be afraid to say it. (thumb)
Last edited:
/members/Jeph/MPI_TUNER013.raw
There's the file. Now in the first columns i do have values set there. That was done the day before. Right after my ecu reset to get my analog out to 2.08. It ran fine the day before but then this happened on the way home. I even got pulled over because the cop was worried because "my car smells real bad."
The nijector clip is fixed, and it is working all the time. So there are no worries there. I guess i should still buy a new clip, but the tie is holding it perfectly fine now. I feel better with it tied than i did with the little piece of plastic holding it on.
There's the file. Now in the first columns i do have values set there. That was done the day before. Right after my ecu reset to get my analog out to 2.08. It ran fine the day before but then this happened on the way home. I even got pulled over because the cop was worried because "my car smells real bad."
The nijector clip is fixed, and it is working all the time. So there are no worries there. I guess i should still buy a new clip, but the tie is holding it perfectly fine now. I feel better with it tied than i did with the little piece of plastic holding it on.
Jeph said:/members/Jeph/MPI_TUNER013.raw
There's the file. Now in the first columns i do have values set there. That was done the day before. Right after my ecu reset to get my analog out to 2.08. It ran fine the day before but then this happened on the way home. I even got pulled over because the cop was worried because "my car smells real bad."
The nijector clip is fixed, and it is working all the time. So there are no worries there. I guess i should still buy a new clip, but the tie is holding it perfectly fine now. I feel better with it tied than i did with the little piece of plastic holding it on.
wow, that's crazy but there has to be ab explanation. I don't like how you have the numbers in your map, but that in no way explains what the hell it was doing. When did this all start? I thought it ran ok when you got it. I mean it made the drive up there fine didn't it? Have you done anything to the car? The best I can tell you is to give me a call so we can work on it together. ANYTIME except Saturday. Any other day and any time of day will work.
It did run ok when i got it. It happened after i reset my ecu and took all the values out of the first 3 columns. I noticed the analog out wasn't at 2.08, so i added the numbers in there to get it back to 2.08 at idle, then the next night it happened again but 10 times worse. like you saw in the datalog.
Jeph said:Ok so THE SAME DAMN THING happened to me tonight. On the same map thats been running right for the past week. i haven't touched it since friday of last week, and i don't know what the **** is going on. Should i reset my cu and start from scratch again?
How are you resetting the ECU? Do you have the ground wire loop around your engine compartment? If so, disconnect both sides of the battery, pump the brakes and let it sit for a minute or so, just to be 100%. I know I have to disconnect BOTH terminal since I hooked up my ground wire loop, don't know if it makes sense, but that's what I have to do.
/members/Bigg Tim/map.doc This is what my analog map looks like. I make my fuel cal so the AFR cycles between 14-15 while cruising on the highway non boost. Then at idle, I have to increase the values a couple to get the voltage in check. I also add a little just to the right of idle to help with the light throttle/low RPM's. this works great for me, I am not saying this will fix your problem at all, just showing you how I have my non boost area. All zero's and then I max the stock injectors out and pick up with the xtra injectors. This is also without the purple wires hooked up.
I started to talk to Beau about it but he was in the middle of no where and the call was crappy. I'll try to see what he has to say again. I'll also ask him if I changed anything in the TM, which I don't remember if I did or not. If I did, then I would have increased the O2 clamp resistor, which I think is wrong now. I just can't remember off the top of my head.
Jeph said:Usually I reset my ECU by just disconnecting the ground wire on my battery. Do you think i should reset it now, and then take all my values in the columns down to zero's and see where i'm at?
If you have the ground loop, yes!
Jeph said:Ground loop wire? pics?
I take that as being a no, you don't have one. It's when you take some 8 or 4 gauge wire from the negative terminal to various motor and body spots and back to the negative terminal to make a fulle circle around the engine bay. This makes the entire car be a solid ground, it's good for stereo's and stuff.
If you don't have that, then just removing the ground on the battery, should be fine.
brealmp3 said:does the mpi lose the map if you kill the battery? or will it hold it?
Nope, it holds your map.
No prob, when you hear some guys having to reset teh ecu, the mpi will hold the map in its eeprom, while the stock ecu gets reset.brealmp3 said:sweet, thanks for the info! cause i'm bad about killing my battery at shows, with the stereo
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