MPI Tuner Anyone?

[ViksMSP]

Cool, thanks for your info.
How about the location of the extra injectors?? Is there a hole that needs to be drilled? or do you supply some extra pipe fitting to place them in.
I wouldn't want to drill a hole in my manifold or hard piping and have to buy a new one when I try to sell the car or something.
Thanks again,
Vik.

 

[MPNick]

Well, I have been researching for a good unit, I was going to get the J&S but as seeing that I have a FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM, The J&S will do nothing for me except protection against failure to a problem I will not have solved. Then the haltech which I have a tunner near home. Electromotive which is very expensive and same issues like microtech; both are standalone. Yours came in, but a lot of people bashing on it, then the AEM, too many good things.

Listen, this is what I want:

Im scared that, after investing on your unit, the problem may not be solved. Some said it is my ECU going into limp mode because of my stored codes for long, some say its my stock injectors not holding too much pressure, or the MAF maxing out....I still dont have a gawd damn clue!

I want to know what features your current unit has, I mean, what sensors it taps (MAF, AIT, O2, etc), does it really control stock Injector duty cycle, ingnition control? I do know bits of what your unit basically do.

Dean has run upto 16 psi, he never runs lean. He has a stock fuel pump, stock injectos in the rail and two extra injectors before the throttle body.

You already know why I think you are running lean.

At 12psi you should go with the bigger MAF meter. It will allow you to get more air into your engine at higher boost levels.

We tap into the coolant, air temp, O2, MAF, coils, and TPS. Duty cycle is a bad word for some. If you read some old post on this about my piggyback you will find that it was then controlling the duty cycle. Now people want to call it something different. The bottom line is we program in changes that the stock ECU reads. Based on the changes that MPI Tuner shows the stock ECU, the injectors will then add fuel or remove it. It all will depend on what we need to do. We control the program so we can control the fuel anyway we need to. The spark control works the same way.

If you have a CEL you need to see why. What are you codes? It may be nothing but you do not want to run with a CEL. Please let me know if I coverd all of you questions.


Thanks again


Later........Nick

 

[MPNick]

Cool, thanks for your info.
How about the location of the extra injectors?? Is there a hole that needs to be drilled? or do you supply some extra pipe fitting to place them in.
I wouldn't want to drill a hole in my manifold or hard piping and have to buy a new one when I try to sell the car or something.
Thanks again,
Vik.

How much boost are you going to run? You may not need the extra injectors.

The extra injetors come with a weld on bung. We machine them in house, this means that I may be able to make some different for you that would bolt on.


Thanks again


Later..........Nick

 

[Bigg Tim]

I have no issues with any type of acceleration. It is smooth throughout the entire RPM range, except when the turbo kicks in. (evil) Here's a pic of my xtra injectors:

 

[DooMer_MP3]

MPNick, you need to update your website with some Protege specific stuff. Do you still make a turbo kit?!

I'm assuming this is it: http://www.modernperformanceinc.com/

I'm a software developer/web developer. I can always help for discounted prices! Muauahah , but if you really did want to, just PM me.

Chris

 

[MPNick]

Nick,
I would imagine that getting the car run safe and fast would be very possible with your system, but what I'm more interested is the smooooth acceleration. With stock ecu, you get jerks and bumps when switching closed to open loop. I would imagine you'd get even bigger jerks and bumps when extra injectors come on, or when your system adds fuel.
Getting the car to run fast in a quarter mile is one thing, but how about smooth partial throttle 3-4psi accelaration?
Thanks,
Vik.

You asked about how it would work in low boost and part throttle. I say it works great and Big Tim also said it works great. Maybe you think that he may have an unfair opinion on my MPI Tuner.


Please check out this post. It is from someone who used it and got it to work great at low boost.
*********************************************************
I dont know how many times i have to say it. The piggyback from him worked fine for me. When I yes I tuned my car there we no issuesat low boost. I like to use a MAP sensor to switch the extra injectors on. That way i was able to READ boost and fuel accordingly. This also helped with timing retard. I only set the MAF values to stock parameters. I spent alot of time with my voltmeter and driving to get it right. It worked very well for me. My only problem was at higher boost i would puddle in the intake plenum .I like extra injectors for light boost applications when a low budget dictates how much performance you can afford. BUT in MY HONEST opinion i will never do it again. I would rather mount 4 additional on the intake runners and have the piggy control them.

__________________
Nick
www.turboperformanceworks.com
" Underestimation is the key to all unsuccesful people " Anon
" Never argue with an idiot.. they will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience" Anon

 

[MPNick]

MPNick, you need to update your website with some Protege specific stuff. Do you still make a turbo kit?!

I'm assuming this is it: http://www.modernperformanceinc.com/

I'm a software developer/web developer. I can always help for discounted prices! Muauahah , but if you really did want to, just PM me.

Chris

Hello Chris, yes we make the Protege turbo kits. They all include our MPI Tuner.


Thanks again

Later............Nick

 

[DooMer_MP3]

Hello Chris, yes we make the Protege turbo kits. They all include our MPI Tuner.


Thanks again

Later............Nick

Do you have any pics and/or list of things that come with it? And a price? Would be nice to see. I guess I'll search for some, while I wait!

Chris

 

[igdrasil]

Thanks Nick, more questions:

What options Do I have for tunning the car with the MPI?

MAP
O2
MAF
Aftermarket MAF

And which/why you recommend. Which one will be good for the near future of hitting crazy boost IF the MPI is good for say 16-18psi

by the way, check my video, notice that it goes suddently lean in 2nd gear 1 second before the shift light comes on: http://igdrasil.web1000.com/lean.wmv

 

[MPNick]

Thanks Nick, more questions:

What options Do I have for tunning the car with the MPI?

MAP
O2
MAF
Aftermarket MAF

And which/why you recommend. Which one will be good for the near future of hitting crazy boost IF the MPI is good for say 16-18psi

by the way, check my video, notice that it goes suddently lean in 2nd gear 1 second before the shift light comes on: http://igdrasil.web1000.com/lean.wmv

I would take the MAP sensor and put it out to the curb with the rest of the trash. If you are planning on running that much boost you should get our MAF meter. If will give you all of the calibration resolution that you will need. You would need to tell me the HP target that you are looking for. I would then send you a MAF that has a custom curve for your car. Try getting a MAP sensor custom curved. You will never max out my meter and hit the "fuel cut".

You can get the LM1 O2 sensor if you feel you need better then the stock O2. I have seen just about every O2 out there. They all tell you the same. If you are lean you will see it and if you are rich you will also see it. The only sensors that work are the big dollar sensors that I have used on the dyno. I am not sure if anyone on this forum has a real wide band.

The best tuning tool you have is to have you butt. I am not trying to be funny here. If you have no feel for your car then you should do one of two things. Leave it bone stock or pay a pro to do it for you. I do not care how much money people spend on their cars. You need to have feel for what is going on. You can send me a data log all day all but you still need to be able to give me feedback. Looking at you video I see you AFR meter is working fine. I would not spend anymore money on another one. The name of the game is tuning. You need to get you AFR in check. Only a MAF can read the mass amount of air this is going into your motor. It does not matter if you are at sea level or up high in the hills. If it a hot and humid or cold and dry the MAF will read it 100% spot on. This will help you tune you car and keep it running that way all of the time. Standalones systems running map will need to be tuned for weather changes to stay 100% in tune. When we ran the TEC III on our race truck we had Russ Turner do the tuning on it. He was the man that made all of the changes to the system. He was the top engineer at Electromotive until the day he left. We would spend all day on the dyno a day or two before a event. Then when we went to the track we had to play with the tune again and again. Sometimes the engine would not even rev clean the very next day. It was also the same. This is the dirty secret that most companies will not tell you about their systems. Ford and Mazda have spent big big $$$$$$ in getting the EEC-V to work right. To you think that any aftermarkt company can spend the same about of time and money on a system that is not even OBDI let alone OBDII legal?


Thanks again


Later........Nick

 

[igdrasil]

I would take the MAP sensor and put it out to the curb with the rest of the trash. If you are planning on running that much boost you should get our MAF meter. If will give you all of the calibration resolution that you will need. You would need to tell me the HP target that you are looking for. I would then send you a MAF that has a custom curve for your car. Try getting a MAP sensor custom curved. You will never max out my meter and hit the "fuel cut".


Thanks again


Later........Nick

Im looking to pull ~220whp 240whp max if possible....on stock internals, thats the plan as of today, I will be ripping appart my spare engine sometime around this month. And building it by april - may

 

[PaulMP3]

I am not sure if anyone on this forum has a real wide band.

Nick, what do you mean by real Wideband?? explain.

 

[MPNick]

Nick, what do you mean by real Wideband?? explain.

I mean that most meters that people have are not real wide bands. What kit are you running?

Thanks again


Later......Nick

 

[PaulMP3]

I have a Uego wideband.. it is the same one kooldino has, im pretty sure you have seen his.

 

[MPNick]

Im looking to pull ~220whp 240whp max if possible....on stock internals, thats the plan as of today, I will be ripping appart my spare engine sometime around this month. And building it by april - may

At your power goals you should go with our custom MAF meter.

We have a new piston and rod combo for the Mazda. You can PM me if you would like info on them.


Thanks again


Later..........Nick

 

[LinuxRacr]

Nick, we need to talk about me getting a better MAF, and if it fits my needs.

 

[MPNick]

Nick, we need to talk about me getting a better MAF, and if it fits my needs.

I am reading 18psi in your plans. Hello big MAF.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

 

[igdrasil]

NIck, sent you a PM

 

[LinuxRacr]

I am reading 18psi in your plans. Hello big MAF.


Thanks again


Later.........Nick

OH HELL YEAH!

E-mail me, or put the info in the PRS thread when you have time Por Favor.

 

[igdrasil]

OH HELL YEAH!

E-mail me, or put the info in the PRS thread when you have time Por Favor.

yeah....you do that

by the way why isnt everybody dynoing their cars?