Motor mount Q's

[eburger]

I want to get the AWR motor mounts but dont know what durometer to get. Vibration does not matter to me!!!! I honestly wouldnt care if the car vibrated so much the doors were falling off. There are 70, 85, and 95. They will be going onto a stock pro5. My question is, I would like 95 but is it to hard for a stock engine? Will it damage anything if I go to stiff?

 

[raserx]

Why the super stiff mounts on a stock car? The kind of mounts you use should correlate with the amount of power your putting down. If you really must try stiff mounts, try doing the front mount first. It's only 3 bolts. Then see if you can really live with the vibration. If it's a DD car , I'm betting you'll change your mind about it. I have the Medieval front mount only, and I will leave the rest stock. The drivetrain slop is gone and the vibes are tolerable. Search the forum and you'll see quite a bit on this topic. That's what led me to the Medieval mounts.Good luck!

 

[clicknext]

Stiff mounts shouldn't hurt anything. The only thing I could think of is maybe there are some parts that don't tolerate so much vibration at those frequencies, but I don't think it's an issue that would be likely to pop up, and not something you can foresee anyway.

I agree though, make sure you know what you're in for because the vibration can get pretty crazy...

 

[808MP5]

i suggest... getting whatever you want... this has been covered many times over... if i could do it all over again i would get the stiffest mounts possible...

definently get AWR though.... stay away from SLS... SU's are pretty good also...

I have the stiffest AWR rear mount and i love it... yea vibrations where bad but either i got used to it or it just doesn't vibrate as much anymore... i believe is the later

i've gone through two SLS passenger side mounts and my current one is already showing signs of wear... and my front SLS mount is also showing significant wear...

My SU driver side mount is beautiful and shows no sign of wear...

i think no matter which ones you choose you will get increased vibration but over time it will break in and won't vibrate as much

 

[Sliver5]

I have the 70's they are stiff enough to stop any and all wheel hop on my N/A motor but if you were to boost it I would suggest some of the stiffer mounts, either 85 or 95 depending on what the use of the car is. If you track it alot I would say get the 95's but if it's only street driven then just get the 85's.

 

[JDMJNKY]

Yea just installed my AWR front mount today diff feel the vibration but I can live with it.Engine slop is gone thank god.

 

[maxchao]

Ha if you want to buy my SU rear mount check for sale forum, I think someone is selling the front one too so if you want a set.

 

[P-Funk!]

The softest mounts are still plenty good enough to achive the lash-up you need & will be 100% better than stock. Any harder is a waste IMHO.

 

[25FConv]

Medieval Motor Mounts FTW! Check these out. They are made of a 70A durometer, but they hold the vibrations in the Motor mount and not in the cabin. These are probably the best performance motor mounts that you will get for the Protege........They hold the motor much like if not better than the AWRs but do not have the vibrations in cabin as the AWRs do.
I have had both in my car( first I had the AWR front and Rear MMs and tranny and side inserts) now I have the Medieval Front,side, rear and soon to be tranny mount......Definitely a huge difference.....Its the closest performance motor mount you will get to stock. Check out the reviews I wrote up about the different motor mounts.

Front MM: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123715364

Side MM: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123720669

Tranny MM: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123721340

I will have a rear MM review up soon.

 

[DS motorsports]

Medieval Motor Mounts FTW! Check these out. They are made of a 70A durometer, but they hold the vibrations in the Motor mount and not in the cabin. These are probably the best performance motor mounts that you will get for the Protege........They hold the motor much like if not better than the AWRs but do not have the vibrations in cabin as the AWRs do.
I have had both in my car( first I had the AWR front and Rear MMs and tranny and side inserts) now I have the Medieval Front,side, rear and soon to be tranny mount......Definitely a huge difference.....Its the closest performance motor mount you will get to stock. Check out the reviews I wrote up about the different motor mounts.

Front MM: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123715364

Side MM: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123720669

Tranny MM: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123721340

I will have a rear MM review up soon.

I agree, go with the Medieval Mounts. They use a "hot Pour" polyurethane that no other company on the market uses for motor mounts. It holds 90 dura, but the vibrations are like a 65 dura. We carry them if you are interested in a set.

 

[25FConv]

Welcome to the Forums DS Motorsports.

 

[DS motorsports]

Welcome to the Forums DS Motorsports.

Thank you!

 

[rooster]

how hard is it to swap motor mounts, i know the rear is a pain but is there a how to for the front and sides?

 

[808MP5]

well for the front and sides... is pretty self explanatory if you look at them... you will need 19mm deep socket IIRC and a very good ratchet preferably a breaker bar or air tool...

if your old mounts are torn to sh!t then a jack will also be needed to align the motor. i changed mine without a jack... the motor doesn't really move that much if you do one mount at a time

 

[StealthWyvern]

^ I thought it was 17mm ircc and a good ratchet and a long peice of pipe works wounders!!

 

[808MP5]

hehe... made me go outside to check... you have a good memory... the passenger and front you will need a 17mm deep (deep only for the bolts that connect to the motor)... the driver side mound you will also need a 14mm for the bolts that connect to the frame

 

[StealthWyvern]

hehe... made me go outside to check... you have a good memory... the passenger and front you will need a 17mm deep (deep only for the bolts that connect to the motor)... the driver side mound you will also need a 14mm for the bolts that connect to the frame

ah I forgot about that stupid brace for the passenger side mount. I've changed out the front(2 times), rear(3 times), trans(2 times), and driver side once. So I have 17mm stuck in my head now. lol

 

[bgibb68]

long piece of pipe on normal ratchet = poor mans breaker bar...hey who's got a ball point pen, some duct tape and a spring and i'll make a bomb

 

[25FConv]

it is a 17mm you need for the rear also.

front would take about 15 mins
side about 10 mins
rear took me about 30 mins with a 19" breaker bar, 2' pipe,pb blaster, 17mm deep and short socket, 20" extension bar

 

[25FConv]

will put the tranny mount in when i get it.