MIL help!

[ENTENSE]

tough to say without looking at the top/bottom view. It sure does seem like it though. Here is a pic post install.

What kind of header do you have?

 

[RaiderMS3]

I have a Ractive header. I had a local shop throw in the 2nd bung for $25 bucks. Not too happy with the angle, but I have not had a problem with it at all.

 

[TampaSport20]

I have a Ractive header. I had a local shop throw in the 2nd bung for $25 bucks. Not too happy with the angle, but I have not had a problem with it at all.

Wierd...I had exact same thing happen...exhaust shop welded it in so it points down at an angle instead of straight sideways

 

[ENTENSE]

OK, got the non foulers 2.99 @ auto zone, now do I put them on both the sensors or just the bottom one? And do I have to drill a bigger hole through the non fouler?

 

[RaiderMS3]

use both. Drill one out. Use a dremel or 1/2 drill bit on one of them, screw that one onto the o2 sensor, then screw the o2 and drilled non fouler into the non-drilled non fouler, then screw them all onto the header.

 

[ENTENSE]

use both. Drill one out. Use a dremel or 1/2 drill bit on one of them, screw that one onto the o2 sensor, then screw the o2 and drilled non fouler into the non-drilled non fouler, then screw them all onto the header.

aahhh, gotchya, Now that should eliminate the check engine light.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

ooo, scary. Does the angle of that o2 bung make the sensor stick down below the car so that it grabs trash on the road? Mine is right after the bend pointing horizontal to the ground towards passenger side of the car.

 

[RaiderMS3]

ooo, scary. Does the angle of that o2 bung make the sensor stick down below the car so that it grabs trash on the road? Mine is right after the bend pointing horizontal to the ground towards passenger side of the car.

it sticks down about 1/4 of an inch. Been a year now I think, never have had a problem with it. I was worried originally, but not anymore. The pic makes it look worse than it really is.

 

[RaiderMS3]

aahhh, gotchya, Now that should eliminate the check engine light.

Well, you gotta reset the ECU to not have the light on.

Again, this is how to reset it. To reset The ECU (the way I was told to do it, and it works 100% of the time for me) turn on the ignition so the radio and accessory lights come on. Disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. Pump the brakes a few times (this discharges the capacitors in the computer that store electricity when a power source is removed) Turn the key off and then let it sit 5-10 minutes or so. Then connect the negaitive terminal. All should be well, the CEL will not be visible.

 

[cheapmiata1600]

You can also reset the ECU by pulling the forward most square fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. It's labeled fuel-inj or something like that. Works for me every time and you don't loose your radio presets.

 

[RaiderMS3]

I did not know that. Thanks for the tip! + reps for that!

 

[gino]

For all of you having MIL probs, buy one of these for $30 inc shipping. I installed one after the resistor/cap fix failed and the plug fix failed as well. http://www.o2sim.com/

I've run over 5K miles with absolutely no problems anywhere. Period. And no more headaches with the other "solutions".

BTW, I'm running a 4/2/1 header and no cats.

 

[FasterP5]

Pony Express Mil Eliminator is Inconsistant (at best)

(deadhorse
(deadhorse
(deadhorse

your second 02 sens or might also be bad or dirty. i know that when i had my mil eliminator in, it worked fine for a while, but than i got a cel. it said no activity, so i swapped the sensor out to a new one, and have had no problems since. the mil eliminator i used was from pony express performance. that is my idea.

... I really hate to bag on anyone's products, but when there is consistant
evidence of difficulty, I'll put in my $0.02:

Tried the Pony Express Mil Eliminator twice
- first time it came on after 250 miles or so (reset, repeat)
- second time it would come on after every 500 miles or so (reset, repeat)

Both times I VERY CAREFULLY soldered all connections on the bench
(these were SOLID solder connections, I would highly doubt that there was
any problem with my soldering job)

So I had a muffler shop put in a new bung behind my cat, got another
O2 sensor, soldered in enough wire to extend it to behind the cat, and
no more CELs (for 30K miles so far).

 

[RaiderMS3]

So you put your 2nd bung after the 2nd cat on the midpipe, and it worked?
All you needed to do was run wires? Wow, cool idea!

... I really hate to bag on anyone's products, but when there is consistant
evidence of difficulty, I'll put in my $0.02:

Tried the Pony Express Mil Eliminator twice
- first time it came on after 250 miles or so (reset, repeat)
- second time it would come on after every 500 miles or so (reset, repeat)

Both times I VERY CAREFULLY soldered all connections on the bench
(these were SOLID solder connections, I would highly doubt that there was
any problem with my soldering job)

So I had a muffler shop put in a new bung behind my cat, got another
O2 sensor, soldered in enough wire to extend it to behind the cat, and
no more CELs (for 30K miles so far).