jersey_emt
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- 04 MSM #1089
MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET PARTS LISTING
This is an attempt to bring information about the available aftermarket parts for the Mazdaspeed Protege together in one place. Items specific to our model of car (cold air intake, turbo-back exhaust, etc.) will have links to their respective web page. Generic items (boost controllers, turbo timers, etc.) may or may not; please do your own research when purchasing these products, as they are available from many different retailers. This list will be updated as new parts become available. If you know of an item that is not listed, send me a PM with the info. I'll add the part and give you credit for the find. Vendors will not be listed in the "Other Contributors" section.
DISCLAIMER: All information presented here is expressed with absolutely no guarantees on price, performance, or safety. Use this information at your own risk to help you in your research for MSP modifications. I do not accept any responsibility for your actions or the results of such actions.
TURBO TIMERS
Turbo timers are designed to keep the engine idling after the engine is shut down and ignition key is removed. The purpose is to keep oil running through the turbo to cool down the center housing. This is particularly critical after a hard run, where the turbines can spin at over 200,000 RPM and reach temperatures as high as 900C. If an engine is shut down immediately after a hard run, the turbines may still be spinning without any circulating oil. Extended and repetitive oil coking within the oil lines and center housing could result in clogging problems and damaged turbos. Factory turbos, as well as aftermarket turbos, are susceptible to damage from these problems.
The Mazdaspeed manual recommends you idle for 30 seconds. A Turbo Timer will keep your engine running for the proper time after you remove the key from the ignition. There is a theft protection feature built in to most turbo timers, so you don't have to worry about getting your ride stolen. There are currently no harnesses available for turbo timers, however, installation can be as simple as three splices into the ignition harness. That will depend on features of the individual units, though.
A'PEXi Auto Timer
The A'PEX Auto Timer features a compact interface design (4 x 3/4 x 5/8 inches) with a separate control unit that can be hidden away underneath the dash. This display is a unique "pen-shape", which allows it to be mounted pretty much anywhere you want.
This is also the first timer with an integrated air-fuel ratio monitor. The unit reads the O2 sensor signal from the ECU and extrapolates an air-fuel ratio value. Since the timer uses the factory 02 sensors, which is primarily designed for emissions, the readings may not be as accurate as racing air fuel ratio monitors, but readings are very close. This timer can detect the engine load before shutdown and adjusts the idle time accordingly. Finally, the timer has a safety/security feature that immediately shut down the engine when the parking brake is released.
Buy Apex'i Turbo Timer
Blitz Dual Turbo Timer DC II
This unit combines a turbo timer and boost gauge in one unit. This timer has a boost sensor which senses how long you've been in boost and adjusts the timer accordingly. Run it hard and it'll increase the time; run it easy and the time will go down. It also features a digital boost gauge that reads in bar, not psi. The unit has a peak-hold gauge so you can display the highest recent boost level which is readable on a LCD backlit display for day and night visibility. Available in silver and black to allow you to match your interior scheme as you store it in any DIN-sized slot available. Backlighting is green with red for the alarms and countdown mode.
Buy Blitz Dual Turbo Timer DC II
Blitz FATT DC III Turbo Timer
The FATT DC turbo timer uses a new form factor that separates the display from the rest of the timer. The dislay measures a mere 3.4" wide, 1" high, and only 5/8" thick, so you can surface-mount it almost anywhere you see fit for the black or silver case. The green backlit LCD display is easy to read, day or night. A separate electronics module (3" square, 3/4" thick) can be mounted out of sight.
Feature wise, this timer has quite a few. First of all, the timer uses electrical system voltage to calculate how long it should idle the car at shut-down, based on how high the rpms have been, as most timers do. If you prefer, it can base the shut-down time on how long the motor has been on; if you go on a long trip, shut-down time will be longer. If you go for a very short, easy drive, shut-down time will be very short. It functions as a digital voltmeter for your car's electrical system and it can display the temperature (degrees C) inside your car. A lap timer stopwatch lets you keep track of up to five laps.
Buy Blitz FATT DC III Turbo Timer
Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer
GReddy Full Auto Timers have two standard programmable count down presets (P-1, P-2) and also have two auto timer modes (A-L, A-H). The modes estimate the driving RPM according to the vehicles alternator signal and then recommend a count down time. Unit also has stopwatch/lap time and attack modes along with a built in voltmeter and speedometer. Still standard are the optional parking brake and speedo safety hook-ups. Available in silver and black with blue display that flashes red during countdown/alerts.
Buy Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer
HKS Turbo Timer Type-0
The HKS Turbo Timer Type-0 is a basic turbo timer that features an auto mode that adjusts engine idle time according to the most recent driving pattern, multiple preset times, audible alarms and a volt meter. The easy to read back-lit digital LCD display flashes between orange and red during the countdown The Type-0 is ultra compact, less then a 1/4 din in size and available in a black or silver case.
Buy HKS Turbo Timer Type-0
HKS Turbo Timer Type-1
The HKS Turbo Timer Type-1 offers all the features of the Type-0, PLUS several monitoring and measurement tools. Vehicle speed and RPM can be displayed on the Type-1's LCD monitor and a speed warning level can be set. A 2 stage RPM warning can also be set and used as a shift light. When a warning level is reached the Type-1's LCD monitor will switch from blue to red and an audible beep will sound.
The HKS Turbo Timer Type-1 also features various measurement tools including 1/4 mile timer, 0-60 timer and a stopwatch function that can be used for lap timing (see chart on next page for more functions). All of these features are fit in the same ultra compact case as the Type-0 and is also available in black (MPH/SAE) and silver (KPH/Metric).
Buy HKS Turbo Timer Type-1
There are a few other turbo timers out there but those are the most commonly used due to the name brands. Try searching google for turbo timers and you may run across another brand not listed that you like better.
GAUGES AND PODS
You need a boost gauge before you get a boost controller!
The Autometer ProComp Ultra-Lite series matches the stock gauges pretty well (day and night), and are very reasonably priced. MSP owners have also been seen with Defi and GReddy gauges, which are more expensive, but more accurate, than the Autometers.
Even though the gauge pods listed below are for 52mm gauges, people have had success using a Dremel or similar tool to cut out a hole for 60mm gauges. Paint for the pillar pods (very close match to stock) is available at: http://vinylpro.safeshopper.com/29/254.htm?893
Full A-Pillar Pod (two 2"/52mm gauge openings):
www.protegegarage.com $58.00 shipped
*********************** $58.00
Full A-Pillar Pod (three 2"/52mm gauge openings):
*********************** $60.50
www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22657), $58.99
Steering Wheel Pod (one 2"/52mm gauge opening):
www.protegegarage.com $39.00
BOOST CONTROLLERS
The MSP runs at ~6.5 psi, but has been shown to vary greatly from car to car. A Boost Controller allows you to increase the boost level, thus increasing your performance -- but this SHOULD NOT BE DONE until you've purchased the appropriate supporting mods! There are two main categories: MBC's (Manual boost controller) and EBC's (Electronic boost controller). MBC's are much cheaper, but require you to go under the hood to change your boost setting. Also, getting the boost where you want to takes some tuning (mainly running through 3rd gear, watching the boost gauge carefully). EBC's allow you to change the boost level more easily, and from inside your car. Some even have multiple settings, so you could have one setting for day-to-day driving, and another one with higher boost for the track.
What boost should you run? What has been accepted by most members of the board as 'safe' for daily driving? These are questions that you need to research yourself. Upping the boost too much, or without other mods (like colder spark plugs) will cause irreversable damage to your motor. To start out, try 9psi; this is for both flashed and unflashed ECU's. There is an airflow based fuel/spark cut (when the MAF gets maxed out), and members boosting over 9psi (or over 8psi in cold weather) are hitting it. A Fuel Cut Defenser gets around this limitation.
JoeP XZ MBC: This is the MBC that most members have. It's made by a guy named Joe Pampena (his member name here is kwiktsi), costs $45, and is easy to install/uninstall. An optional electronic controller gives you in-cabin control over boost. Available from www.joepmbc.com.
Turbo XS MBC: Similar to the JoeP. $79
Turbo XS High Performance MBC: Claims to make your turbo spool quicker. $129
Turbo XS Dual Stage MBC: Allows in-cabin switching between two boost levels (normally only found on EBC's). $239
JoeP FCD (Fuel Cut Defenser): Fully adjustable for your needs, if you're boosting over 9 psi you're going to need it, especially in the winter. $60.00 from www.joepmbc.com.
EBC's are similar to the Turbo Timers, where each brand has different features that you need to research yourself. They all do the same thing. The Greddy Profec B seems to
be one of the most popular models, and it's pretty reasonably priced at around $330.
FUEL SYSTEM
The MSP runs insanely rich. Take a look at a dyno chart with an air/fuel mixture graph, or even easier, look at the carbon deposits on your exhaust tip. This overly rich fuel mixture is the main cause of the 'hesitation' that MSP owners have complained about. The ECU flash advances the timing to overcome this, but the fuel mixture is still too rich.
JoeP FPR (Fuel Pressure Reducer): Has eliminated or reduced the hesitation problem for many members. Mainly for unflashed MSP owners, but people have used it on flashed ECU's with no problems so far. $25.00
Also see: EMS Solutions for the MSP!
SPARK PLUGS
Stock MSP spark plugs are platinum NGK PZFR6F's. Colder, copper spark plugs would be a wise investment if you're upping the boost in your MSP. Detonation (Pre-ignition, where the air/fuel mix in the cylinder burns before being lit by the spark plug) WILL cause damage to the motor. Why copper? Platinum plugs have a sharp tip and don't conduct enough heat away to prevent detonation at boost levels higher than stock. A copper spark plug has a wider tip that conducts heat much better, and may prevent you from messing up your motor. The factory spark plug gap is 0.028" - 0.032".
Installation instructions: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27476&highlight=NGK+11
Condensed list (brought to you by Tommy1005):
** Plugs with '1 step colder' listed should be used with boost applications of 10psi or above.
NGK BKR7E (copper)
NGK BKR7EIX-11 (iridium, 1 step colder)
NGK ZFR6FIX-11 (iridium, stock heat range)NGK ZFR7F-11 (1 step colder)NGK ZFR6F-11 (stock heat range)
Autolite AP3923 (platinum, 1 step colder)
Autolite APP3923 (double platinum, 1 step colder)
Autolite AR3923 (racing plugs, copper, 1 step colder)
Autolite AP, APP, and AR3924 (stock heat range)
Denso IK22 (1 step colder)
Denso IK20 (stock heat range)
Bosch 4230 (platinum, stock heat range)
Bosch 4310 (platinum +2, stock heat range)
Bosch 4418 (platinum +4, stock heat range)
Bosch 7562 (copper, stock heat range)
Link with more information (brought to you by MSP #267):
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
See this thread for more in-detail spark plug discussion!
ENGINE PARTS
Urethane engine mounts: Greatly reduces wheel hop, and driveline thrash when shifting. Be warned that the car will vibrate a LOT with both front and rear mounts replaced. Some people have replaced the front mount only, and have found it's a good trade-off. www.protegegarage.com, complete set for $194.95
***********************, complete set for $195
www.slsperformance.com, front mount for $68, passenger side mount for $95
Intake manifolds:
www.protegegarage.com, single cast runner for $299
Exhaust manifolds:
See the corresponding Sticky at the top of the Engine subforum here.
This section last updated January 12, 2008.
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