2007~2015 Mazda CX-9 water pump replacement/service expected costs?

[jplee3]

Hey all,

Looking for some recent reference points from anyone who has done water pump replacement service on their CX9. I have a 2008 Grand Touring V6 model and I am keenly aware of the water pump/engine failure issue that has been circulating. It has been concerned and I really don't want to end up stranded on a long road trip, etc.

That said, I wanted to know what the expected costs should be for this. I'm in Southern California FWIW. Bought the car used from my brother so am expecting that I may end up paying what I paid ($4500~) for the pump replacement lol... that's still cheaper than buying a new or even used car though, in most cases.

 

[PTguy]

Yep, the cost for a reliable used car has gone through the roof. Add high financing interest rates and....

What other necessary work can be done while the engine is out of the car and that work is easy to get to? I'm not familiar with the Ford engine in your car, just what I've read here. If a shop can do other work that may be almost do and save you labor cost, consider it (belts, tensioners, seals, what else?). (Be wary of shops that create an estimate using the flat rate manual that shows the full cost of labor to gain the same access but then they add the same removal/replacement the cost to each part of the job.)

 

[kornholio]

Since it is driven by the timing chain replace that also with whatever parts are associated with the replacement of said chains. Also the spark plugs , coils if you want, maybe valve cover gaskets and you definitely want to replace the plenum gasket and the oxygen sensors if you are closing in on 150k miles. The labor should not be much since the engine is out.

 

[jplee3]

Yep, the cost for a reliable used car has gone through the roof. Add high financing interest rates and....

What other necessary work can be done while the engine is out of the car and that work is easy to get to? I'm not familiar with the Ford engine in your car, just what I've read here. If a shop can do other work that may be almost do and save you labor cost, consider it (belts, tensioners, seals, what else?). (Be wary of shops that create an estimate using the flat rate manual that shows the full cost of labor to gain the same access but then they add the same removal/replacement the cost to each part of the job.)

I'm not sure what other work needs to be done at the current mileage (107k). I'm not great about records and keeping track of and top of these kinds of things (probably because I have taken for granted what was done before and just assumed that it was well-taken care of...which I think it was because my brother and sister-in-law hardly ever drove it and he has always been pretty diligent about bringing the car in for routine maintenance). Is it pretty common to just replace all those items you mentioned (belts, tensioners, seals, etc) at a certain mileage regardless of the condition they're in just more as pre-emptive/preventative maintenance?
I've called a couple shops about what I thought was a stripped oil pan bolt and they were quoting me replacement for the oil pan based off the flat rate manual I think you might be referring to. Are you saying that shops quote based off of that flat rate in addition to charging whatever they would normally charge for removal/replacement? I wasn't clear on what you were getting at there...

Since it is driven by the timing chain replace that also with whatever parts are associated with the replacement of said chains. Also the spark plugs , coils if you want, maybe valve cover gaskets and you definitely want to replace the plenum gasket and the oxygen sensors if you are closing in on 150k miles. The labor should not be much since the engine is out.

When should the timing chain (is this the same as the timing belt btw?) be replaced on this car given the age and mileage (15yrs with 107k miles)? It was also suggested that I stay on top of the coolant flushes/changes as well (I had the coolant flushed and changed at 83k miles last so we've put about 24k miles on them since the last change). What kind of 'maintenance' is it called when you have all the things replaced that you're referring to? I've taken the car in to the mechanic I used to go into before and asked him to look at everything but I don't know how much he really looks at each of these items (if he even does). Is this the type of maintenance where you don't really go based on "appearance" but you simply just replace the said items after a certain # of miles regardless of the condition they're in today (same question I had above)?

 

[kornholio]

When the water pump gets replaced you also need to replace the timing chains as they have been compromised as well. The other stuff like the oxygen sensors should be replaced because they will be due shortly thereafter. I would replace the other parts mentioned also as it is easier to get to and the labor charge will be minimal. Water pump and timing chains should be around 1500 to 2000 dollars.

 

[jplee3]

When the water pump gets replaced you also need to replace the timing chains as they have been compromised as well. The other stuff like the oxygen sensors should be replaced because they will be due shortly thereafter. I would replace the other parts mentioned also as it is easier to get to and the labor charge will be minimal. Water pump and timing chains should be around 1500 to 2000 dollars.

In terms of timeframe and when change all this, what do you recommend?

 

[kornholio]

I had mine done because it was leaking externally. I was one of the lucky ones. On this forum people didn't know that it was leaking because it was an internal leak. You should check your coolant level every 3 days if you are loosing coolant. If not I would then say once a week. If you notice that your coolant is getting low without any evidence of a leak I would remove the oil fill cap and check if there is any signs of milkshake colored oil.

 

[yrwei52]

In terms of timeframe and when change all this, what do you recommend?

It all depends on how long do you really want to keep this 2008 CX-9 GT with 107K miles. What @kornholio suggested for all the parts replacement is based on you want to keep your CX-9 for as long as you can. Find a reliable shop who is willing to take the whole engine out and replace all the parts he mentioned. The engine then can last for another 100K miles without worrying about water pump failure again if the shop did a good work with quality parts and you keep up the maintenance. The timeframe of doing it also depends. You can wait until you catch any sign of coolant leak like @kornholio mentioned by checking the coolant level and oil condition frequently, or find a proper time doing it before anything happens. Then you don’t worry about the engine failure during the long road trip. The water pump is going to fail at certain point no matter how many times you have flushed and changed the coolant. The problem on your V6 is the design of the water pump location which is “internal” driven by the timing chain. Once it leaks the coolant will get into the oil pan and ruin the engine. It takes too much work to get it replaced with timing chain removal. After all this’s a 15 year old car with 107K miles. You’ll have something going to fail any time.

Timing chain serves the same function as the now defunct timing belt. In theory it should last the life time of the engine. But since the engine is out to replace the water pump, might as well replace the timing chain and associated guide and tensioner which all need to be taken out for water pump replacement. You save all the labor by doing this.

If you have an AWD, you want to look at another potential major problem on your front transfer case (or power transfer unit / PTU in Ford term) too.

 

[Maxmodem]

I had the water pump, chain, tensioner done for $2,600. They sell a timing chain kit with all that stuff. Might as well just replace all those things at the same time whether they're bad or not, as that's your chance to do it. Since your in CA, it will probably cost more though. I used to live there and love comparing my bills with my family's now and giving them a hard time about how much they get gouged over there.
I also got the valve cover gaskets done as they were leaking oil. Wish I would have told them to do the spark plugs too as those are easy to do when the engine is out.
My personal opinion is to just leave it alone and be mindful of it. It could go another 100,000 miles and be fine. I would recommend (and do myself):

1. monitor for any puddles or stains in the driveway (the ac always leaves a puddle so ignore that one)

2. Make a mental note of the coolant level and check it every so often. It can vary slightly when hot/ cold or when car is at an angle, so dont worry about very small fluctuations. Also if you just got the coolant changed the level could drop if you turn on the heater or something and they didn't get all the air out. So keep that in mind and just go back and have them top it off if that happens.

3.Clean the underside of the oil cap and then every so often just unscrew it and look at the underside to see if there is any white milky residue on it.

Whether it leaks internally or externally one of those checks will let you know. Definitely stay on top of oil and coolant changes. You can look up recommended intervals online.

As far as the AWD, my guess is most of them are broken and drive just fine that way. people just don't realize its broken until they notice the flashing awd light come on for a few seconds once or twice in winter, or the dealer brings it up along with a long list of expensive repairs/ services to try to talk them into buying a new car.

 

[yrwei52]

I had the water pump, chain, tensioner done for $2,600. They sell a timing chain kit with all that stuff. Might as well just replace all those things at the same time whether they're bad or not, as that's your chance to do it. Since your in CA, it will probably cost more though. I used to live there and love comparing my bills with my family's now and giving them a hard time about how much they get gouged over there.
I also got the valve cover gaskets done as they were leaking oil. Wish I would have told them to do the spark plugs too as those are easy to do when the engine is out.
My personal opinion is to just leave it alone and be mindful of it. It could go another 100,000 miles and be fine. I would recommend (and do myself):

1. monitor for any puddles or stains in the driveway (the ac always leaves a puddle so ignore that one)

2. Make a mental note of the coolant level and check it every so often. It can vary slightly when hot/ cold or when car is at an angle, so dont worry about very small fluctuations. Also if you just got the coolant changed the level could drop if you turn on the heater or something and they didn't get all the air out. So keep that in mind and just go back and have them top it off if that happens.

3.Clean the underside of the oil cap and then every so often just unscrew it and look at the underside to see if there is any white milky residue on it.

Whether it leaks internally or externally one of those checks will let you know. Definitely stay on top of oil and coolant changes. You can look up recommended intervals online.

As far as the AWD, my guess is most of them are broken and drive just fine that way. people just don't realize its broken until they notice the flashing awd light come on for a few seconds once or twice in winter, or the dealer brings it up along with a long list of expensive repairs/ services to try to talk them into buying a new car.

Good advice overall! $2,600 for the water pump and all other related parts replacement is a pretty good price. I believe the same job would cost a lot more nowadays as the price for car parts and labor has gone up significantly. I also agree that car repair in CA is definitely a lot more expensive based on my personal experience there.

 

[PTguy]

Some parts wear by the mile. Other items deteriorate by time. Coolant, brake fluid, rubber parts are mainly time based, although rubber timing belts have both mileage and time limits. In my vehicles with timing belts I've followed the mileage; none have been in place long enough to meet the time limit. I've had one timing chain start to fail, it made a tick-tick every revolution indicating that part of it was coming apart. Replacement time for that. I don't know if there is a mileage limit for the timing chain. The point is that so much work is involved to get to it, the same work as getting to the water pump, that it is most likely a money saver to add the timing chain and associated bits when you've paid for the access on the water pump job.

Check this: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/231969/Mazda-2008-Cx-9.html?page=390#manual

 

[jplee3]

It all depends on how long do you really want to keep this 2008 CX-9 GT with 107K miles. What @kornholio suggested for all the parts replacement is based on you want to keep your CX-9 for as long as you can. Find a reliable shop who is willing to take the whole engine out and replace all the parts he mentioned. The engine then can last for another 100K miles without worrying about water pump failure again if the shop did a good work with quality parts and you keep up the maintenance. The timeframe of doing it also depends. You can wait until you catch any sign of coolant leak like @kornholio mentioned by checking the coolant level and oil condition frequently, or find a proper time doing it before anything happens. Then you don’t worry about the engine failure during the long road trip. The water pump is going to fail at certain point no matter how many times you have flushed and changed the coolant. The problem on your V6 is the design of the water pump location which is “internal” driven by the timing chain. Once it leaks the coolant will get into the oil pan and ruin the engine. It takes too much work to get it replaced with timing chain removal. After all this’s a 15 year old car with 107K miles. You’ll have something going to fail any time.

Timing chain serves the same function as the now defunct timing belt. In theory it should last the life time of the engine. But since the engine is out to replace the water pump, might as well replace the timing chain and associated guide and tensioner which all need to be taken out for water pump replacement. You save all the labor by doing this.

If you have an AWD, you want to look at another potential major problem on your front transfer case (or power transfer unit / PTU in Ford term) too.

I had the water pump, chain, tensioner done for $2,600. They sell a timing chain kit with all that stuff. Might as well just replace all those things at the same time whether they're bad or not, as that's your chance to do it. Since your in CA, it will probably cost more though. I used to live there and love comparing my bills with my family's now and giving them a hard time about how much they get gouged over there.
I also got the valve cover gaskets done as they were leaking oil. Wish I would have told them to do the spark plugs too as those are easy to do when the engine is out.
My personal opinion is to just leave it alone and be mindful of it. It could go another 100,000 miles and be fine. I would recommend (and do myself):

1. monitor for any puddles or stains in the driveway (the ac always leaves a puddle so ignore that one)

2. Make a mental note of the coolant level and check it every so often. It can vary slightly when hot/ cold or when car is at an angle, so dont worry about very small fluctuations. Also if you just got the coolant changed the level could drop if you turn on the heater or something and they didn't get all the air out. So keep that in mind and just go back and have them top it off if that happens.

3.Clean the underside of the oil cap and then every so often just unscrew it and look at the underside to see if there is any white milky residue on it.

Whether it leaks internally or externally one of those checks will let you know. Definitely stay on top of oil and coolant changes. You can look up recommended intervals online.

As far as the AWD, my guess is most of them are broken and drive just fine that way. people just don't realize its broken until they notice the flashing awd light come on for a few seconds once or twice in winter, or the dealer brings it up along with a long list of expensive repairs/ services to try to talk them into buying a new car.

Thanks for all the advice! I will try to remember to keep an eye on the levels at this point. Sounds like it's not an "immediate failure" type of situation at least in most cases. In terms of leaking oil - I had the 'opposite' problem with the last shop I was going to. They overtightened and used liquid gasket (I think) to seal the bolt onto the pan lol. I had to take it back and tell them not to do that again because I wanted to start DIYing oil changes on this car. Anyway, I had the oil changed on it recently so should be good there. In terms of coolant levels, do those normally drop even if there's no leak?

What is entailed with repairing the Front Transfer case?

Ideally, it would be nice to keep the car for as long as possible but at the same time I'm not that motivated haha. I've been slowly looking at EVs but not sure which one I'd want to get (only one that comes to mind right now is the Tesla Y)

 

[Maxmodem]

Coolant level shouldn't drop if there is no leak. If there are no puddles and engine cap stays clean then you're good.

Do you have AWD?

My brother has a tesla model 3. He's said many times now that he would never own any of those cars without a warranty. The repairs are often and very expensive. He had a problem with the battery and it was about $20,000 to replace. Under warranty that's OK, but if you're paying for it thats insane. Insurance is also very expensive for them. Other brands have launched their own EVs but it always takes time for kinks to be worked out of a new model, so I would give them all time.
It's always tempting to buy a new car but I'd personally save my money if your car is running good. Every car has its issues, even new cars. Used car prices are still too high where you're often getting a better value buying a new car, but who wants to spend that money. This is all relative though based on your finances. Newer cars have better safety, and EVs do have a leg up because they make the whole front end a crumple zone instead of having to work around an engine, but if it takes money away from other important things or causing financial strain, you have to weigh that in if it's worth it.

 

[moto932]

My 08‘ just started puking out the weep hole behind the alternator today. Luckily it happened just as I pulled in the driveway. I dont think any coolant got in the oil though. I’ve really liked this car and it is still in excellent shape being only a few miles from turning 165k miles. Don’t think I have the time or energy tackle it myself right now so I’ll call for estimates to see if it’s worth fixing. We’ll see.