Hi all, Cn anybody please share a link to the latest firmware, this i think for my cx5-2016 - 74.00.324A EU N for Europe and UK
Mazda Connect Firmware 74.00.230A (now .324A)
- Thread starter crikey
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Just to say I reached out via a private message as suggested and got the firmware. I installed it last night on a 2015 CX5 and it took around 40-45 minutes. You need to be very patient as it sits without advancing the Percentage complete for 5 or so minutes at a time.
To be fair to Mazda you can't really leave it unattended. At the very least you have to go an push the brakes or open and shut doors at 20 minute intervals so the car doesn't go to sleep so you are going to have to pay for a mechanics labour for them to monitor it. They also instruct dealerships to hook the battery up to a charger while the update is running to make sure the battery doesn't run flat and brick the Head Unit. It would be nice if they didn't police the online community doing it themselves quite as hard as they are though. I guess its easy revenue they can get the apprentice to do.
Just got a 2020 CX-5 with version 70.00.335. The response time when booting and switching between screens can be pretty sluggish compared to the 2018 3 I just traded (don't remember the OS version on the 3, though). Not sure if an update to 74.xx.xxx will make much difference but would like to try, for sure
Is there any big difference between the 74.00.324A version vs the .230A one? I have the .230 but not sure if there is any important reason to update to the 324. Thanks!
No estoy seguro que hable español....
I just completed the hardware install (Aliexpress kit) and its all go. The biggest issue is the removal of the old USB module - Either take out the whole console or most seem to recommend using a flatblade screwdriver to brake the tabs off. I was wrecking my hands trying to squeeze through the gap and even with a lit tiny wifi inspection camera I couldn't do it.
In the end I put two Gib/Plasterboard screws into the two holes in the facia by the SD slot and then pulled on them which pulled the facia off the module. It was then easy with a flatblade to crack / snap the clips from the front and slide it out. Took two minutes once I finally thought of it.
Only downside is its fairly destructive of the old module if you plan to keep it just in case but otherwise its a breeze and for me that was the longest part of the whole job trying to get the old unit out.
Thanks again to ASH8 for the DM and its all working well - I just wish I'd enabled the touchscreen at speed before updating as it sounds like I can no longer do it. No biggie.
In the end I put two Gib/Plasterboard screws into the two holes in the facia by the SD slot and then pulled on them which pulled the facia off the module. It was then easy with a flatblade to crack / snap the clips from the front and slide it out. Took two minutes once I finally thought of it.
Only downside is its fairly destructive of the old module if you plan to keep it just in case but otherwise its a breeze and for me that was the longest part of the whole job trying to get the old unit out.
Thanks again to ASH8 for the DM and its all working well - I just wish I'd enabled the touchscreen at speed before updating as it sounds like I can no longer do it. No biggie.
I’m a new owner of a 2017 Mazda 6. It is on firmware version 59.00.441 and I am preparing to update it so that I can install the ACP kit.
One area I am finding confusing is differing advice. One place that has very explicit step by step instructions and a newer firmware file states that at long as the firmware is above version 29.xx, you can directly flash to the newer version (not fail update first) using a single file.
The instructions throughout this thread are adamant that I should flash to 70.00.100a fail and up first (two file), then can flash again to newer with a single file.
Does anyone know who is right? Why does this site say to follow a two step process?
I am also posting so I can request the 70.x version for the interim step if really required.
Any help is appreciated.
One area I am finding confusing is differing advice. One place that has very explicit step by step instructions and a newer firmware file states that at long as the firmware is above version 29.xx, you can directly flash to the newer version (not fail update first) using a single file.
The instructions throughout this thread are adamant that I should flash to 70.00.100a fail and up first (two file), then can flash again to newer with a single file.
Does anyone know who is right? Why does this site say to follow a two step process?
I am also posting so I can request the 70.x version for the interim step if really required.
Any help is appreciated.
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In this thread, there are many, many posts from users who have followed the process as outlined in the instructions they have received. Almost all of them have been successful, whether they were able to flash directly from an older version or whether they have to flash to a failsafe version first. The instructions are very clear as to whether you'd need to do one or the other.
I updated my CX-9's infotainment from 59.xx.xxx directly to 74.00.324a with zero issues. You should be able to do the same with your Mazda6.
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For future firmware update requests:
When you request the firmware update, list your current version, and you'll receive a PM from a member who will provide instructions relevant to your current version.
If your firmware version is below 55.00.650 NA N, you'll have to flash the failsafe first.
When you request the firmware update, list your current version, and you'll receive a PM from a member who will provide instructions relevant to your current version.
If your firmware version is below 55.00.650 NA N, you'll have to flash the failsafe first.
My only advice is make sure your battery is in good health as you are sitting there with the car on but not engine running for forty minutes. In the workshop they connect a charger to the battery while doing it to play safe. We had a new battery fitted by Mazda this year as the old one was starting to not work with istop quite often and it was no issue at all - I guess the draw to run the stereo etc is pretty low - Just make sure you turn the fans and any interior lights off. I was a little nerve racking as it stopped advancing the % for long periods but so long as you expect that its ok. Coming from IT where a long period of no advance like this often means a failure so it made me nervous but have a timer going so you don't panic. There were a couple of 5 minute periods it didn't advance.
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This is a good note. The instructions do reference a couple of instances where the progress bar will hang for a bit, and it also mentions tapping the brake pedal every 15-20 mins to prevent the car from going to "sleep".
One last question, is it possible to complete the flash with only the command knob? I tried a test run of the first couple of steps and I can’t find a way to select “Enter” and “Clear” f from the test screen using just the command knob. Unfortunately, my touchscreen is not usable (had the ghost touching issue so disconnected the 50 pin ribbon to fix that.
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You may be able to source a replacement digitizer from one of the sources in this thread for the ghost touch issue:
Infotainment Screen cracking (spider cracks)
I ended up purchasing a repacement screen from Opuradio as previously mentioned. It should be here today and I'll work on it over the weekend. Cost was about $250usd shipped.
Not sure if a new digitizer will resolve the issue, though..
Thanks for trying. There are many cheap (~$20) options for the 14-16 Mazda 6 touchscreen, but for 2017 I can only find whole units for ~$400+ dollars. It is very frustrating.
Aliexpress lists a 17 model glass replacement for ~$100, but it has the wrong ribbon cable (it is 50 pin, but wrong connector).
*edit* I think I may try a bodge. The 2017 CX-5 uses a 50 pin connector even though the screen size is different. I think I will buy one, connect the ribbon, and just leave the glass unmounted to see if I can use it the one time to press the enter and clear selections.
If it doesn’t work, I’m just out $17.
Aliexpress lists a 17 model glass replacement for ~$100, but it has the wrong ribbon cable (it is 50 pin, but wrong connector).
*edit* I think I may try a bodge. The 2017 CX-5 uses a 50 pin connector even though the screen size is different. I think I will buy one, connect the ribbon, and just leave the glass unmounted to see if I can use it the one time to press the enter and clear selections.
If it doesn’t work, I’m just out $17.
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hi,
Bought the carplay upgrade module in Aliexpress for my Mazda 2 year 2015, but looked at my current firmware now I'm a bit confused, it shown just 42.00.400 with no region characters at the end; which region is it?
Can someone also help me to provide the right firmware to able to use the carplay module?
thank you
Bought the carplay upgrade module in Aliexpress for my Mazda 2 year 2015, but looked at my current firmware now I'm a bit confused, it shown just 42.00.400 with no region characters at the end; which region is it?
Can someone also help me to provide the right firmware to able to use the carplay module?
thank you
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additional info: I bought this car in Indonesia, so I guess the OS should be Asian version?
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