magnumP5's RX-7 Build Thread
- Thread starter magnumP5
- Start date
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I know you want to, Jon...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...gename=STRK:MESELX:IT&clk_rvr_id=250817350640
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...gename=STRK:MESELX:IT&clk_rvr_id=250817350640
I would kill myself so quickly on track...
Small update: Ordered Haltech dual channel wideband controller and two sensors. Also a bit pissed because I opened up my new gauges to find they sent me the wrong ones (silver bezel versus black and no peak recall/warning feature). It's been three days and so far no response from the vendor through either email or phone. Grr...
Also...
Question time. I'm working on my battery relocation and I'm trying to figure out everything I need and where to get it. I think the list is pretty simple:
-Battery terminals (2)
-2 AWG wire (~15 ft red, ~2 ft black)
-2 AWG eyelets (several)
-Ground post (1)
-Circuit breakers (?)
I'm not an audio person but I'm told audio places typically have the best stuff in this area, but I have no idea where to look. First, is 2 AWG wire okay for running 12V, 100-150 amps over ~10 feet or do I need to go larger? For battery terminals I'm really looking for something with provisions to run smaller gauge wire (like 12 AWG and smaller) as the Haltech and some other things require direct connection to the battery. I know I can find wire anywhere but I'm really looking for something pretty flexible as it needs to run from behind the passenger's seat, across the width of the car, down the driver's door sill and through the firewall into the engine bay where it will connect to the starter, alternator and fuse box. I also have no idea how many circuit breakers I'd need. The other question I had was regarding wire routing. The stock system has two wires that split from the positive terminal to the alternator and the main fuse box and then a wire from the fuse box to the starter. I'm thinking it may be better to run the new setup right to the starter and "daisy-chain" from the starter to the alternator to the main fuse box. I'm thinking the new engine setup may be a bit harder to start so I'd want all the juice going to the starter first.
Comments/suggestions???
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Yeah, go to an audio shop. The stereo power wire you get from them is very flexible. 2 Ga is probably fine for that application, but I'd say to step up to 0 gauge to be safe.
I wouldn't daisy chain. I'd purchase something along these lines.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16822_Stinger-SPD812-Gold.html
You can get them fused or not fused. I've used many of those in my stereo installations. They're awesome so that you don't have to worry about a bad connection in the daisy chain.
Circuit breakers... I'd go with this mind set:
One large for the full load within 18" of the battery
One smaller one with appropriate current load for each leg off of the distribution block.
Probably overkill, but better safe than sorry, right?
I wouldn't daisy chain. I'd purchase something along these lines.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16822_Stinger-SPD812-Gold.html
You can get them fused or not fused. I've used many of those in my stereo installations. They're awesome so that you don't have to worry about a bad connection in the daisy chain.
Circuit breakers... I'd go with this mind set:
One large for the full load within 18" of the battery
One smaller one with appropriate current load for each leg off of the distribution block.
Probably overkill, but better safe than sorry, right?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
save yourself a s*** ton of money and go to a welding supply shop instead of a car audio shop for the cable.
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I've heard this as well. Do they make welding wire in different colors? Call me picky but I like my ground wires black and my power wires red or yellow. Also need to find a welding supply shop...
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I've only ever seen black, but I haven't looked extensively. a battery relocate is very low on my list of priorities. lol need to break into 12s first.
mymmeryloss
Member
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- 13bT Mazda B2600i
Yes u should be able to get different colors at a welding supply shop...
I have red and black on my welder for polarity changes...
I have red and black on my welder for polarity changes...
Yep, lookes like a couple places online sell them in a lot of different colors. Is there any difference in signal quality between a "high-grade" audio wire versus welding wire? If not, sign me up for some 1 AWG red/black welding wire. I only ask because the FC's have notoriously bad charging systems.
Fiddled around some this weekend but it's too damned hot to stay out in the garage for more than 30 minutes at a time and even then I'm dripping. 12V switched, tachometer output and fuel pump wires are all ready for the Haltech and I'm in the process of relocating the stock temperature gauge sender wire to the front harness (much cleaner this way). Other than that, not having the correct gauges is really keeping me from buttoning up the electrical as I really need to run the wire for the sendors, etc. Also removed another (now) extraneous coolant nipple and tapped the hole for a M12 x1.5 bolt. Now I just need to find a fitting oil drain plug or equivalent to plug it...
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
copper wire is copper wire, and I would argue welding wire is better. Copper conducts on the surface of the wire, and welding wire uses smaller strands, thus more surface area.
Agreed. However, the car stereo power wire has a high strand count these days. I'd put them very close to the strand count of welding cable.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I guess I'm just out of touch. lol
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
U guys r missing a big part of the wiring situation...
U also need to pay attention to the insulation, and once again, I would say the welding wire is probably one up on quality there also...
U also need to pay attention to the insulation, and once again, I would say the welding wire is probably one up on quality there also...
Update:
Started the last bit of wiring removal - the stock charging system. I got everything separated and removed the starter wires:
Took a break from wiring while I wait to get my gauge issue sorted. In the meantime I tapped the back of the water pump housing for the sensor for the water temperature gauge. Between the stock unit, the gauge and the ECU I'll have three water temperature sensors on the engine, LOL.
Next, I got tired of trying to envision everything in my head so I had a bit of an idea. Why not use my old parts to build a dummy engine?! After some screwing around this is what I was left with:
So now everything is routed down the driver's side. I'm trying to think of a way to route all the new engine control stuff on the passenger's side but I've got nothing that doesn't look weird or run wires perilously close to the exhaust manifold. At least now I can start wrapping everything back up. When I'm done I'm going to have three distinct harnesses in the engine bay: front (lights, sensors, etc.), engine (coils, injectors, etc.) and charging (alternator, starter, main fuses).
Speaking of gauges, here the pods I've been working on. Bolts right to the stock console and fits perfectly in the stock double din location. I'll eventually figure out how to put the aftermarket single din back in there...
Started the last bit of wiring removal - the stock charging system. I got everything separated and removed the starter wires:
Took a break from wiring while I wait to get my gauge issue sorted. In the meantime I tapped the back of the water pump housing for the sensor for the water temperature gauge. Between the stock unit, the gauge and the ECU I'll have three water temperature sensors on the engine, LOL.
Next, I got tired of trying to envision everything in my head so I had a bit of an idea. Why not use my old parts to build a dummy engine?! After some screwing around this is what I was left with:
So now everything is routed down the driver's side. I'm trying to think of a way to route all the new engine control stuff on the passenger's side but I've got nothing that doesn't look weird or run wires perilously close to the exhaust manifold. At least now I can start wrapping everything back up. When I'm done I'm going to have three distinct harnesses in the engine bay: front (lights, sensors, etc.), engine (coils, injectors, etc.) and charging (alternator, starter, main fuses).
Speaking of gauges, here the pods I've been working on. Bolts right to the stock console and fits perfectly in the stock double din location. I'll eventually figure out how to put the aftermarket single din back in there...
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
That gauge cluster is gonna look sweet!
There's an article in Modified Magazine this month all about rotories so hopefully I'll be able to understand a bit more of what you're doing, Jon. Regardless, keep chipping away at her and keep posting pics. You're doing a great job. Realistically, when do you think you'll fire up the new motor? Just curious. Will it be ready for 2012 HPDE season?
Have alot of weeds growing in your car?
I'd like to have the motor firing sometime later this Fall. If that's the case then I should be ready for HPDE 2012. Realistically my next tasks are:
1. Finish/test wiring
2. Put interior/exterior back together
3. Build/reinstall engine
4. Tune
That's simplifying it quite a bit but when I break down my "to-do" list that's pretty much what it comes down to. Right now my fight over gauges has pushed my progress back quite a bit. All I need to do from the wiring side is to integrate the gauges, relocate the battery and test the system (i.e. connect the battery, switch the ignition and pray everything works/doesn't catch fire).
Nope that's for the yard. Heat + no rain = lots of weeds and dead yard. Actually, right now it's spiders I'm worried about. I'm keeping everything in the garage and those buggers are getting into EVERYTHING. I'm pretty sure I killed a black widow that nested in my dash last week. Yeah, I'll be vacuuming/cleaning the HELL out of this stuff before it goes back into the car...
Cleaned up some more wires yesterday, but ran out of electrical tape so I moved onto other things. I decided I could mock up my wideband on the steering column:
I used to really hate these bolt-on gauge pods but I think this one looked pretty good where it is.
