MAF relocation?

M

Mutmatt

Member
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MazdaSpeed Protege, Black Mica
Ok well after my $7,000 Mazda ass hole rebuild of the engine (deadhorse ... i am ready to put my FMIC and Injen back on but i have 2 things that i was contumplating (sp?)

1. MAF relocation to the cold side pipe... mind that i have a hks bpv on the cold side already welded there... looking at the hks ssqv bov tho... save weld

2. converting the injen into a sri any1 done that yet any need to brace the pipe or should i cut it down and have it sit lower down by the turbo or what... does it need to be braced on a bolt? pics would be nice

(Mods in my sig... NO EMS so i can't really be tuned)
 
bump for my ?'s and to see if any1 have any concrete info on maf dmg from relocation...
 
that is by no means the ? i asked now is it? i know my plans and i was just wondering about this mod... i have plans worked out with other things in mind also... ps i don't plan on boosting more than 8 or 9 psi for a few years
 
To answer your question I would need to see a pic of where exactly your bov is located. If you can't put the maf between the tb and bov, then don't move it, you won't gain anything from it. And as far as converting the injen to an sri, just stick the filter on the end, no need to brace it, it will stay just fine. So post a pic of your setup and i'll tell you where exactly to put the maf. I have both of these things done that you have mentioned to my car, and it works fine.
 
gboromsp said:
To answer your question I would need to see a pic of where exactly your bov is located. If you can't put the maf between the tb and bov, then don't move it, you won't gain anything from it. And as far as converting the injen to an sri, just stick the filter on the end, no need to brace it, it will stay just fine. So post a pic of your setup and i'll tell you where exactly to put the maf. I have both of these things done that you have mentioned to my car, and it works fine.
Click to expand...

Here is an idea of what the MAF should look like. THis is my old setup. The BOV can be 6 - 12" down from there.
 

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this is my setup... wow i just called mazda and they told me the reason my engine was loud was because my intake gasket was leaking... hmm
 

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If you don't mind cutting you could remove the red box part (get the sections rewelded or use a coupler) to make a little room for the maf. I would make the cut for the maf on the yellow line. My maf comes right after the bov and it doesn't seem to affect how it reads.
I personally wouldn't cut up that nice intercooler piping. If stalling is driving you nuts like it did me I can see why you would want to, but I would recirculate. There is also the fact that having the MAF on the pressure side is still being proven as a safe mod.
 

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well i heard that it helped with even acceleration and the hks bpv tightened down HARD and then a turn and a half has almost no stalling AT ALL! so i think i will stick with the stock position for now
 
I heard u should have the MAF atleast 6 to 7 inchs away from your BOV. I want to put my relocate my MAF but dont have enough room....Does anyone know if i was to put my MAF about an 1 or 2 away from my BOV would that still be okay??
 
I've read the closer the better. My maf is about 14-15" from the TB and 3 or 4"
from my BOV. I haven't had any problems with it that way. It makes sense that the closer the MAF is to the TB the more accurate the reading will be but I doubt a few inches will make a huge difference. So long as you accomplish having the MAF accuratly meter the air going into the engine you'll be fine
 
ZenProtege said:
I've read the closer the better. My maf is about 14-15" from the TB and 3 or 4"
from my BOV. I haven't had any problems with it that way. It makes sense that the closer the MAF is to the TB the more accurate the reading will be but I doubt a few inches will make a huge difference. So long as you accomplish having the MAF accuratly meter the air going into the engine you'll be fine
Click to expand...
Ya what he said. Basically the reason we do this is mainly to have as few silicone couplings as possible between the MAF and the TB.

As a side note, if you do blow a pipe on the highway, your car won't stall with the MAF relocated. You won't boost and you would be sucking unfiltered air, but atleast you will have time to find a place to pull off.
 
damn do something about that engine cover!

anyway,I recamend you move it,I did over a year ago,never had a problem.
 
Today, I went to the gas station and when I got back into the car, I shifted into reverse and then I forgot about it. A few seconds later, I abruptly let out the clutch and the car ofcourse shook like mad as it stalled.

Before this the car ran stoich to lean, now all of a sudden it is running pig rich. The MAF is kinda pressed against the battery box. I am fearing that when I did that it smacked the battery and knocked it slightly out of cal. Hopefully the ECU will learn around this and start running normal in a few days.
 
genius said:
Today, I went to the gas station and when I got back into the car, I shifted into reverse and then I forgot about it. A few seconds later, I abruptly let out the clutch and the car ofcourse shook like mad as it stalled.

Before this the car ran stoich to lean, now all of a sudden it is running pig rich. The MAF is kinda pressed against the battery box. I am fearing that when I did that it smacked the battery and knocked it slightly out of cal. Hopefully the ECU will learn around this and start running normal in a few days.
Click to expand...
Have your PCM read by a scanner. At idle your readings should be at or around 2.08v.
 
check the maf's voltage with key on eng. off, it should be .5 V. If your reference voltage is off then you have problems
 
ZenProtege said:
check the maf's voltage with key on eng. off, it should be .5 V. If your reference voltage is off then you have problems
Click to expand...

OK, I'll check, thanks!
 
btw, I'm not sure which wire should be .5v, but so long as one of them is your good. why do you think your maf has gone out of calibration(didn't know that could happen). Anyways, if you have a proper reference voltage I'd say nothing is wrong. If you stil think somthing's wrong find out how much resitance the sensor should have and check ohms too
 
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