Little Help-Car Runs Like crap after winter

[Blue_MS3]

I parked my car last fall in favor of the 4 wheel drive for the winter and everything is fine. I drove the car once and a while (1 every other week or so) during the winter. Now that the temps are back up in the 60's I have been driving the car my frequently and have had nothing but boost and fuel cut problems. If i try to go over half throttle the boost builds until 23 psi and then hits fuel cut and jerks violently, then the check engine light comes on with an overboost code and an O2 sensor code. At this point I am avoiding driving before causing any damage to the engine. I have checked through all the vacuum lines and what not and i have not found anything obvious. Like i said the car ran great in the fall.

I have a Protege garage intake and inlet, a corksport downpipe, accesport running stage 1 93 octane fuel map, and a MBC.

Any suggestions/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Darth Vader]

It's boost cut you are hitting, not fuel cut. Anything over 19 will set that off.

I bet you just put an MBC on, right?

Money you have it hooked up to the comp nipple and that's yer problem right there.

You need to hook it up to manifold vac/pressure, either at the BPV line or tapping the hot or cold pipe or using one of these:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=TP&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=

 

[Blue_MS3]

It's boost cut you are hitting, not fuel cut. Anything over 19 will set that off.

I bet you just put an MBC on, right?

Money you have it hooked up to the comp nipple and that's yer problem right there.

You need to hook it up to manifold vac/pressure, either at the BPV line or tapping the hot or cold pipe or using one of these:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=TP&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=

No I have been on the MBC since June of 09. I had it set to 18 peak and all was well for months but its just this spring that its acting up. Is possible the MBC is not working anymore or maybe the screw came out of adjustment? I have not changed anything on my car since I added the MBC is June.

 

[Blue_MS3]

Just an FYI I hooked up the MBC using this method.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123683964&highlight=boost+controller

 

[Darth Vader]

That method only works with the restricted signal Turbosmart Boost T and not always even then.

Take the BC off and make sure it's flowing properly. If it's a check ball design, amke sure the ball moves when the BC is turned all the way out. If it not ball-type, use the suck test on the output nipple to make sure it isn't blocked.

To get this to work on my car I had to Sell the Hallman I bought, buy the Turbosmart, hook it up to manifold at BPV line and ungate it to finally control the spiking and boost creep.

 

[Sport6]

Soooo why have the MBC and the AcessPort?

 

[Blue_MS3]

Soooo why have the MBC and the AcessPort?

Because I snapped(notcool) the nipple off on the stock boost control solenoid when installing my turbo inlet and I had a hallman boost controller off my old eagle talon laying around. i have tried to get a new solenoid but the mazda stealership here says they can't get it.

 

[Blue_MS3]

That method only works with the restricted signal Turbosmart Boost T and not always even then.

Take the BC off and make sure it's flowing properly. If it's a check ball design, amke sure the ball moves when the BC is turned all the way out. If it not ball-type, use the suck test on the output nipple to make sure it isn't blocked.

To get this to work on my car I had to Sell the Hallman I bought, buy the Turbosmart, hook it up to manifold at BPV line and ungate it to finally control the spiking and boost creep.

Will do, I also have another boost controller I can try. is there any reason why it would work with my Halman controller for 8 months then just stop working?

 

[Darth Vader]

Completely commonplace upgrades that work for every other turbo car on the planet have unexpected results on this car, lol.

Just take it off and see that it hasn't got stuck/clogged. The Hallman ES is a check ball design. Remove, loosen off the knob and give 'er a shake to see the ball is moving. Then, subject the lines and MBC to a test to determine that the line's free on the pressure in side and the WGA diaphragm can hold pressure. I test it with a gauged bicycle pump and a fitness fat ball adapter. You can watch it hold pressure and verify the WG is actually opening.

...and I really would redo the lines the way I described earlier.

 

[Sport6]

Heres a link to buy one from OnlineMazdaParts

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214264&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2453&groupid=52028&subgroupid=4567&componentid=0&make=22&model=Mazda%203&year=2007&graphicID=5417287&callout=19&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

 

[Blue_MS3]

Heres a link to buy one from OnlineMazdaParts

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214264&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2453&groupid=52028&subgroupid=4567&componentid=0&make=22&model=Mazda%203&year=2007&graphicID=5417287&callout=19&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

Thanks, I will probably go this route and see if it fixes the problem.

 

[Blue_MS3]

Update- Replaced the solenoid but the damage had been done already. i am pretty sure that the boost spikes bent one the rods which decided to come through the engine on a 12 mph shift to second right after pulling out of my driveway with no boost. Lets hope Mazda doesn't tell me to shove it because i don't have the money to fix it.