LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

LinuxRacr said:
(jacked)

Then I understood why Ahmad's car ran so good with more timing (like 24-25 degrees at full boost). The trigger angle setting allowed for more timing.

Not sure about that. All it means is that the crankshaft pickup sarts counting from number one sooner or later. On the same given engine you will have the same amount of total timing causing detonantion.
 
I think he means number wise... Ahmad had 24-25 and ran great as far as what was programmed... and Pat ran 15 or whatever... but they are probably both running about 15... just Ahmad's car is biased by 10 degrees so it takes a 10 degree higher number entered in the Haltech to get to the same timing that Pat's car runs.
 
JDM Sam said:
BTW I believe Patrick has one or both of the JDM FSZE Cams from his blown FSZE motor. So on his car the valve lift is more than the stock FSDE.

Well, the lift is the same, but the duration is more.
 
TurfBurn said:
If you get the belts to look lined up before you rotate the motor over completely twice, you'll often end up with the timing marks no longer being lined up... it has to do with the influence of the tensioner and how things work out in the end.. so it is absolutely necessary to rotate that motor over a few times before rechecking the timing marks. The reason I say to mark the teeth at that point is that if you are off after you've done this then these points give you the reference points you need to make an adjustment accurately. Marking the teeth/belt beforehand does nothing for you as the belt will not be in the same place (you'd have to rotate the motor over many many times before they'd line up again.). So it is a reference you create just before you do the final adjustment... and it is important to keep track of the crank gear against the belt as well.. hence I said to mark all 3... otherwise if you slip it off the crank gear while adjusting the upper gears you are back to being SOL as you just lost your timing relative to the crankshaft.

I don't understand why this is such a big issue...when I time a motor, I simply line up the timing marks on the cam gears and UDP, rotate the motor twice, double check the marks, and button it up...
 
Kooldino said:
I don't understand why this is such a big issue...when I time a motor, I simply line up the timing marks on the cam gears and UDP, rotate the motor twice, double check the marks, and button it up...

My point was my experience... we had it out of the car and we'd get it all set up and the marks lined up.. then rotate it over and the damn things weren't lined up... so it took some adjusting... first time or two we didn't mark the belt and messed it up... also because we were hurrying we didn't pay attention to centerline.. but anyway... [/threadjack] Has nothing to do with a Haltech.
 
TurfBurn said:
I think he means number wise... Ahmad had 24-25 and ran great as far as what was programmed... and Pat ran 15 or whatever... but they are probably both running about 15... just Ahmad's car is biased by 10 degrees so it takes a 10 degree higher number entered in the Haltech to get to the same timing that Pat's car runs.

You get the gist of what I was relaying.
 
Kooldino said:
Ok, so chaning that is kind of like changing your "zero".

Wonder if the MPI changes it from stock...

The MPI doesn't change that because then the stock timing maps would be all off and your car wouldn't run like stock when out of boost. It only adds or removes timing on top of what the stock ECU already does.
 
Bigg Tim said:
The MPI doesn't change that because then the stock timing maps would be all off and your car wouldn't run like stock when out of boost. It only adds or removes timing on top of what the stock ECU already does.
Right, but does it have the capability to do that?
 
TurfBurn said:
On topic... did you ever do anything with that barometric setting? Any luck overall with it?

Nope, never changed it. BTW, the stock ECU still controls the VICS on my car.
 
Well that's cool... mine has two cut wires dangling in the air... so it's not being controlled.... I'll be putting it onto the Microtech and doing dynos with it closed opened etc... just because.. :) it is "actuated" at idle correct? aka the butterflies open?
 
I actually gutted my old MAF that I had laying around last weekend, and used that. My good MAF is just hanging from the coolan can like yours, but is hooked up to the stock ECU, doing nothing. Not too much of a difference noticed by me, but some. I need to clean my K&N filter probably to get the real gains. It is dirty as hell.
 
be careful when you do not to leave any debris on the inside.
 

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