LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

Sam, man I went for a ride this morning to my Uncle's new house, and man it pulls harder than last night man. I now can feel the torque! The only thing I did was adjust the boost solenoied so that when the knob is all the way up, the max boost is 10 PSI. YOu do this from the options menu > PWM output > click properties. Adjust the field that is for Max Boost Pressure (KPa) to the desired boost pressure. 68.84 = 10 PSI. I noticed that the duty cycle of the boost solenoid changed too when I adjusted this. It went up! It not kicks up to the max boost quicly. It's like lag elimination! What were you saying about T3 turbo's? (no)

I think I may take the step today and remove the MAF restriction.
 
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I do suggest the MAF removal, it solved half of my original stalling problem. Glad to know things are going well for you. I am in the middle of tearing everything apart again. This time I know a little more though, so it should go faster.
 
I went on a run with Moeed and ELEmental59437, and found out some more stuff about why I want a better intercooler, and why the BEGI IC sucks for wanting to run 10 PSI or more. Heat-soak was really owning me today. I got ping numerous times. Ahmad was running 1 BAR of boost the whole time, and his air temps were the same as mine where at 5 PSI. :wtf: Yes, I turned the boost down. I think I will hook the J&S back up tomorrow to see more. When the night came, it started pulling great again! My air temps are hot though.
 
I have a few questions for the Vendors/Veteran tuners (like MAM/MPI/HiBoost/NSN):

When my drive belt was loose, is there a possibility that the slipping belt may have thrown off my timing. I recently (the other day) tightened it up. Could my timing be off? What is a good, cheap timing liht with all the features I would need to check my timing correctly on the Protege? How do I use a timing light properly?
 
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LinuxRacr said:
I have a few questions for the Vendors/Veteran tuners (like MAM/MPI/HiBoost/NSN):

When my drive belt was loose, is there a possibility that the slipping belt may have thrown off my timing. I recently (the other day) tightened it up. Could my timing be off? What is a good, cheap timing liht with all the features I would need to check my timing correctly on the Protege? How do I use a timing light properly?

It is possible, but not all that likely that the belt would have jumped teeth... A timing light won't help you as far as the timing of that belt.. the motor derives it's timing for ignition directly off of the crank pulley which can't be anything other than correct (unless you damage the sensor teeth etc). So a timing light won't get you anywhere... as far as doing the timing of the belt.. you can check that pretty easily with minimal work.

You'll need to take off your accessory belts and then remove your crank pulley.. that way you can see the toothed gear pulley that drives the timing belt off of the carnk... put the crank bolt (that you removed with an impact wrench to get the pulley off) back in and rotate the motor until the notch in the crank gear matches the raised spot on the oil pump housing... it'll be obvious when you are looking at it... with those two spots lined up you need to go up and look at the cam gears (which will require the valve cover removed). When you look in there you need to see if two tiny little notches in the cam gears are lined up with one another.... if they aren't even close (aka on totally different sides of the cams etc) then you need to turn the motor over another full revolution.. then when that notch comes back to matching with the oil pump housing check on the cams again. If those are pretty much in line with one another (plus or minus 1/16") then your timing is fine.. if they are essentially out of line with one another by what will be relatively obvious as one tooth then your timing of one of the cams needs to be altered to get them to line back up. That's about it!

Later.

Steve
 
I don't think it's something to worry about. If the timing belt slipped and was off, you wouldn't be driving right now b/c the pistons would have hit the valves.
The drive belts only control the accessories, alternator and power steering, so it doesn't affect your timing.
 
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exactly. The one time an old car of mine broke the timing belt, half the valves were bent (of course I was doing 70 at the time), and not knowing what happened I tried to start it a couple times.
 
JDM Sam said:
I don't think it's something to worry about. If the timing belt slipped and was off, you wouldn't be driving right now b/c the pistons would have hit the valves.
The drive belts only control the accessories, alternator and power steering, so it doesn't affect your timing.

Not correct... they will only impact if the belt breaks... Our motor only interferes by a tiny tiny little bit... and that is only if the valve is vfully extended and the motor hits TDC... so his belt can be off by a tooth or two and still run... but it would run poorly...
 
glyph said:
exactly. The one time an old car of mine broke the timing belt, half the valves were bent (of course I was doing 70 at the time), and not knowing what happened I tried to start it a couple times.

Yeah if you are running the car and the belt actually breaks it will cause damage.. but if you skip a couple of teeth the car will just run slightly poorly to completely like crap... but will run and be "fine" without damaging the valve train.. it is when it breaks that it becomes an issue..
 
thanks for the distinction, Turf. I have learned much from you, oh wise one.
 
LOL... I'm uh learnin too! Just had to fix one of my mistakes tonight on the motor... had the cams off on timing... I had the timing marks aligned but in our hurry to get things done and buttoned up we had them non-horizontal.. in other words one cam was advanced by one tooth and one was retarded by one tooth... (so the timing marks lined up, but just not where they were supposed to line up) which explains why the motor was not very responsive when I had it running yesterday.. so I have that corrected, and I need to put the covers on... then I can move on to figuring out my starter problems and removing my exhaust to fix my cat...

Hopefully this answers your questions Patrick... give me a ring though if you got questions at any point.

Later!

Steve
 
If the belt was loose and slipped, which he is fearing happened, the timing would be more than a few teeth off and it would have destroyed his motor already.

Either way the timing belt shouldn't have moved b/c his accessories belts were loose not his timing belt and they do not affect timing at all. He found out he had a loose or missing bolt on a tensioner for an accessory belt which caused his start up belt squeal issue. So he's not talking about his timing belt but his accessory drive belts.
 
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JDM Sam said:
If the belt was loose and slipped, which he is fearing happened, the timing would be more than a few teeth off and it would have destroyed his motor already.

Either way the timing belt shouldn't have moved b/c his accessories belts were loose not his timing belt and they do not affect timing at all. He found out he had a loose or missing bolt on a tensioner for an accessory belt which caused his start up belt squeal issue. So he's not talking about his timing belt but his accessory drive belts.

Again... NOT true... it will not impact the valves unless it slipped an entire half revolution which is entirely unlikely... If it slipped a large portion, 1 tooth to 10 teeth, it will just run like crap/not run at all... so the motor would be fine even if it skipped a number of teeth... it'd likely skip and die... and then if you retime everything you'll be good to go again... but obviously eliminate the slip.

And yes.. the accessory belts have nothing to do with timing and obviously he's fine... but skipping teeth which is near impossible (even with the tensioner loose... unless it is an old/worn belt) is not the end of the world either way.

I've checked the interference between the pistons and valves.. and the interference is only a couple thousandths... when it does become an issue is when the motor is revving as the pistons/rods will "stretch" a number of thousandths and will then lead to a greater impact... additionally the rocking of the pistons can enhance that and that is why valves get bent so badly... but our valves do not have a considerable amount of duration at full lift, and thus unless the belt slips enough to get a cam near full lift when it's mating piston is at or nearing TDC you will not have any problems... the motor will stop running well before it can slip that many times/that much... but if it breaks... that is a whole nother story :)
 
If the belt was loose it would slip more than a few teeth. Last time I did a timing belt if the tensioner was loose it wouldnt even grab the cam gears. maybe your doing someting I dont know. You are right if it is that loose the engine shouldnt even start up. I don't like to take chances on timing belts so if you say we have a safety leeway for piston to valve clearance I rather not test it. As we all know the clearances for everyone motors will not be exactly the same.

BTW I believe Patrick has one or both of the JDM FSZE Cams from his blown FSZE motor. So on his car the valve lift is more than the stock FSDE.
 
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What the hell was I thinking when I made that post. Of course the timing belt is toatally different, but you all know what I meant. ;) BTW I only have the intake cam from the FSZE. The exhaust cam is the same as the USDM. The JDM Mazdaspeed exhuast cam I never had.
 
To fix the pinging, I adjusted the map down one degree in timing where Sam had changed it to 18's. The map was fine until yesterday. I have a timing light now, and will take a look at the timing anyway tomorrow.
 
LinuxRacr said:
What the hell was I thinking when I made that post. Of course the timing belt is toatally different, but you all know what I meant. ;) BTW I only have the intake cam from the FSZE. The exhaust cam is the same as the USDM. The JDM Mazdaspeed exhuast cam I never had.
You had a brain fart. You prob smoked some tainted hookah with Moeed and Ahmad.
 

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