LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

[LinuxRacr]

This morning I had another cold start issue. It was battery voltage related though. I just installed the Red Top Optima Battery last night, and I guess I hadn't driven around enough to get a decent charge into it. Although it was already charged before it was installed, it probably has been sitting for a while, and had some low 11's voltage. Moeed gave me a jump, and it started right up. It was colder than it has been a a while (38 F or 4 C).

 

[changedman]

38 degrees. meh.

 

[LinuxRacr]

The car started everytime today. Progress!

 

[changedman]

excellent!

 

[vindication]

I have a question about the Haltech and AEM. this is not which one is teh bestest evar so relax, it's just a noob question. Is there something that the AEM does that the Haltech E6X does not that is needed(well needed might be too strong of a word, maybe preffered) to run a 400whp protege? I am finding it hard to justify the AEM price. Not trying to get too off topic, just a simple answer would do it. thanks

 

[RyanJayG]

well... the Haltech does the job just fine, but you get many more functions with the AEM.

for starters, for the price you are getting a plug and play system. so its easy to remove if you have emmisions testing.
also it has more variables with which to tune the fuel curve for different conditions. (there are so many situations I can't name them all)
there is a bunch more stuff, but I really really dont want this to turn into a "my system is better than yours thread"

really the best thing to do is to download both softwares and check them out.

I suggest reading the "help" file in the AEM software. there is so much to learn

 

[Captain KRM P5]

well... the Haltech does the job just fine, but you get many more functions with the AEM.

for starters, for the price you are getting a plug and play system. so its easy to remove if you have emmisions testing.
also it has more variables with which to tune the fuel curve for different conditions. (there are so many situations I can't name them all)
there is a bunch more stuff, but I really really dont want this to turn into a "my system is better than yours thread"

really the best thing to do is to download both softwares and check them out.

I suggest reading the "help" file in the AEM software. there is so much to learn

i agree with Ryan here - the units do much the same thing in terms of fuel and timing but the AEM's ease of install/removal as well as the very powerful self tuning capabilities of the unit are simply unmatched and in my eyes justify the added price. if you are willing to do a little extra legwork and splice a few wires than the haltech e6x is a fine solution. i really can't wait to see dynos from Beau on the AEM.

 

[TurfBurn]

And don't forget about the Microtech either! . When it comes down to making the 400 whp all the standalones will get you where you need to go. And Nick will be proving the MPI can do it soon as well. As long as you can do timing and fuel you have everything you need. The rest is about making the car run "better." And keep in mine that even with an autotune and so forth you still have to do a fair bit of tuning yourself, and you won't be any better off on cold start.

Glad to see the progress patrick... are you going to be posting your maps once you have that done?

Later!

Steve

 

[LinuxRacr]

Well before this turns into a sale pitch thread, I better update it. Been starting pretty good as of late, but I idle really rich (like 10's and below before I warm up). I think this is due to my high idle (around 1300 RPM) putting me into different cells that add more fuel. I really want to see the Haltech E6X control my idle IAC solenoid so that I can stablize my idel at will without having to turn that damn screw.

 

[low_psi]

It would be nice if the E6X could store a cold start, idle map then transition to a driving map automatically once a specified operating temperature is reached...

 

[TurfBurn]

It would be nice if the E6X could store a cold start, idle map then transition to a driving map automatically once a specified operating temperature is reached...

It does... they all do.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I 2nd that.

 

[TurfBurn]

Well before this turns into a sale pitch thread, I better update it. Been starting pretty good as of late, but I idle really rich (like 10's and below before I warm up). I think this is due to my high idle (around 1300 RPM) putting me into different cells that add more fuel. I really want to see the Haltech E6X control my idle IAC solenoid so that I can stablize my idel at will without having to turn that damn screw.

Alter your water temp correction... then you should be ok.

 

[low_psi]

It does... they all do.

lol shows you how much I know (bow)

 

[TurfBurn]

lol shows you how much I know (bow)

I'm sure there is plenty you know that I don't too! (first)

 

[low_psi]

haha, except I'm studying M.E. while you ARE a M.E.

(rofl)

 

[TurfBurn]

haha, except I'm studying M.E. while you ARE a M.E.

(rofl)

And my "regular job" is being an E.E. LOL...

 

[LinuxRacr]

And my "regular job" is being an E.E. LOL...

Hey, I have an E.E. Degree (A.S.), but I don't even use it! I'm a Sys Admin, but that is a little off topic.

 

[TurfBurn]

Yeah sorry linux... I've been an OT extraordinare for you thus far...

Did you follow me on the leaning out the water temp map? If you have it starting ok, but idles rich you can push up your crank and after start a bit, and then pull back the water temp correction.. that way when it comes out of the startup and crank functions it will be leaned out without affecting anything else.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Peep this out. I went down to the car and started it for the 1st time today, and it started up after turning over a few times. Once the car was started, I went to the 2D Fuel Map, and backed off the fuel under idle. I was rich! I got the A/F ratio up to about 11.7 because the car still wasn't warmed up. From there I went to the Fuel Coolant correction map and pulled the bars down some at the tempurature range it was at. About 30 seconds later, the coolant correction map shifted to the next range, and with it the A/F ratio. The car was getting warmed up, and 13's were on the horizon. I got it to the point where I idled in the 14's A/F ratio-wise directly after warmup. My idle is a little lower as well in the 1100's instead of the 1300's. When I turned on the headlights on my car, the A/F ratio when up, so I adjusted the battery correction map a little to see what would happen. The jury is still out on whether this made a big difference. When driving around, my response was much better due to better A/F ratios, and the turbo spooled right up and got me gone! Little by little the tune is working out!!