lightweight performance pulley

It will help by getting rid of rotational mass. Just like getting a lighter flywheel. It will rev-quicker and its less drag on the whole powertain = more power to wheels. I say, shave weight where you can. 4lbs savings isnt that much, but I would try it out.
 
personally i wouldn't do this or the fly wheel with out them being balanced with the crank,...it might not be much but even the slightest change can throw off the crank harmonic balance and fubar your bearings....learned this the hard way with one of my mustang motors
 
personally i wouldn't do this or the fly wheel with out them being balanced with the crank,...it might not be much but even the slightest change can throw off the crank harmonic balance and fubar your bearings....learned this the hard way with one of my mustang motors


Really...I've never had any problems with any car installing a flywheel and it being unbalanced. Sorry, but the crank should be balanced by itself. The balance shaft just does that to prevent it. Flywheels wont do anything internal from the outside since its round and balanced. I think what happened to you was just a freak incident.
 
I don't wanna sound like a dick know it all BUT (lol) every successful motor build starts with a balanced rotating assembly,especially factory builds.Each of my assemblies at the machine shop needed the harmonic damper, crank and flywheel to be balanced together @ one time...its motor building basics. The pully, not so much, but the flywheel? most definitely. each motors tolerances are different and higher hp motors require precise balance and blueprint. The fact that its outside of the rotating assembly is mute..its still attached to the crank. Aftermarket aluminum flywheels are lighter therefore the balance is off toward the rear of the crank. Again this is based on my knowledge of ford push rod motors, the new tech introduced such as balance shafts may eliminate that possibility like you said :O) ....unfortunetly what happened to one of my motors wasn't a fluke, the harmonic damper cracked in half and only half the bearings were scorched, the front and rear main bearings were fine...the minute (mynoot lol) vibrations were just too much for the damper to cancel out
 
I to have had lightened flywheels and pulleys on prety much every car I have owened without ever a hint of it being unbalanced or causeing any issues with bearings or anything else.
 
I don't wanna sound like a dick know it all BUT (lol) every successful motor build starts with a balanced rotating assembly,especially factory builds.Each of my assemblies at the machine shop needed the harmonic damper, crank and flywheel to be balanced together @ one time...its motor building basics. The pully, not so much, but the flywheel? most definitely. each motors tolerances are different and higher hp motors require precise balance and blueprint. The fact that its outside of the rotating assembly is mute..its still attached to the crank. Aftermarket aluminum flywheels are lighter therefore the balance is off toward the rear of the crank. Again this is based on my knowledge of ford push rod motors, the new tech introduced such as balance shafts may eliminate that possibility like you said :O) ....unfortunetly what happened to one of my motors wasn't a fluke, the harmonic damper cracked in half and only half the bearings were scorched, the front and rear main bearings were fine...the minute (mynoot lol) vibrations were just too much for the damper to cancel out

I've done this on a Ford small block stroker 408 that I assembled. IDEALLY you want everything that rotates on the crank to be given to the shop and balanced by the shop on the rotating assembly when they do the balancing. That includes flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, all the bolts etc. Almost anybody building an engine should be aware of this, especially if they've upgraded any parts of the rotating assembly. If it's all stock and machining was minimal, probably not worth the expense.

I have never heard of giving them the crank pulley. Harmonic damper, yeah but never the crank pulley itself. The factory pulleys are not weighted and balanced on a Ford and like many things Ford, they're "close enough". The bolt holes are not keyed and you can mount it on the damper any way you want.

Now on the little 2.3 MZR, the rotational mass of the crank pulley, especially an aluminum one can't be squat and won't mean jack. Plus you're not spinning it to 7000rpm.

That said, steel is more durable than aluminum when driving your belts and I would not bother upgrading this part. It won't add enough lightness to make any difference IMO.

Back to the Ford 408, I used Police Crown Vic crank pulleys ( two sandwiched together ) which I found cheap on the net, and they were HUGE and very heavy. Probably 7-10lbs no problem. Definitely could have made some extra power upgrading them but with 480ft lbs, I didn't care.

I say skip it.
 
just because a fly wheel is lightened does not mean its unbalanced. "balance" does not come from the weight of the flywheel when its sitting on the ground. it comes from the rotational weight of the flywheel spinning. if you look at the back of most "light weight" flywheels they will have a weight bolted around the outer edge. example if you (200lbs) would sit on an office chair and put your legs out and hold a ten pound weight and then have your friend spin you, you could spin say 50 times a minute. but now put a small child (100lbs) in the same chair with the same weight and spin him, he would spin 100 times a minute. the chair it self is still "balanced" by the same 10 lbs but the child/you(flywheel) is different. so the the flywheel could be made out of air as long as that weight is in the same location......well i hope that makes sense to someone other than me haha......im going to bed.(friday)
 
umm yeah....i un installed my balance shaft and it made a huge difference and next month I will also be installing the light weight pulley for my MS6 seeing how the product will for sure make a noticeable difference and they balance the pulley when they make it.

it is the pulley itself that has to be balanced and it already is from the maker....

and was it a 5.0 or 4.6 peace of crap stang? cause i heard the 5.0's had no problem doing this and the 4.6 had many problems when doing this...

the 2.3 MZR is not a disgustang

Not sure who you are directing your post towards, but in my case it was neither a five point oh, or a 4.6 and it was not in a peace ( typically spelled piece ) of crap stang. Thank you for clarifying that the 2.3MZR is not a disgustang though. :rolleyes:

I believe the OP was talking about ONLY swapping the pulley. Not the balance shaft delete kit AND the pulley. Would simply swapping just the pulley make much difference? I highly doubt it. The balance shaft delete in combination with the pulley obviously does, as you can attest.
 
right ...the pulley wont make much of a difference, its not part of the "actual" rotating assembly.....all 5.0 push rod motors 302,306,331 and 347's
 

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