Yeah, I might need to get it painted black or something. I just like the feeling I used to get when walking into the parking lot and seeing my P6 and being like "Damn, I love this car.". The Milly is like "Damn, this car is fugly and boring...". heh-heh. I know it's just my DD but it's just so bloody bland. Oh well.
Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
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PrinceValorum
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
You're the one that wanted bland and boring!
Paint it like Arctic Pearl White or a fancy color off of a new Lexus or something, get some different wheels (I won't even mention lowering it, lol), and a manual swap. Then you've got a baller whip. 
seems like a lot of work for im not sure. it seems just looping it would be the same.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/237178-how-convert-your-power-steering-rack-manual.html
http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/237178-how-convert-your-power-steering-rack-manual.html
The 323..mine is from an '88 323..and I discussed this briefly this weekend with Jarod (who made my rack) and he thought that a 90 or so would fit in your car. I don't know the generations of the 323, but whatever gen a '90 is, that is what he thought might fit in your car..
Thanks, mate. I've read the first couple pages (I'm on my lunchbreak so I have to skim. Heh-heh). It looks like the 1994 Protege with the 1.8l had a manual rack, available from Rockauto for ~$217. But I think they have the BP motors, but if the subframes are the same it doesn't matter which motor they had, right? I think I'll go to the junkyards this weekend and take some measurements.
And I forgot about the water pump pulley if you remove the PS pump. That one cat just has the tensioner on the ribbed side of the belt for 2 years, but I'm also a little weary of that. I prefer to have a grooved pulley. More research! haha
And I forgot about the water pump pulley if you remove the PS pump. That one cat just has the tensioner on the ribbed side of the belt for 2 years, but I'm also a little weary of that. I prefer to have a grooved pulley. More research! haha
All said, mine cost me 200 bucks, with the tie rod ends modded, the linkage modded, etc..I bought it from Jarod for what he had in it.
PS Mechanical water pumps are lame.
But I still have some issues to iron out of my setup before I would recommend the setup to anyone else, lol.
PS Mechanical water pumps are lame.
But I still have some issues to iron out of my setup before I would recommend the setup to anyone else, lol.Neat thread, I dont think I want to look through all them pages (just yet). Do you remember what input knuckle and tie rod (inner outer) pieces came from what? If not I guess I will need to just figure this out on my own. I dont think I would just loop the power rack without real life feed back (like some third gen protege that races saying go for it bro). Its one thing to fight some 195mm all seasons, and another to fight 225mm Hoosiers. (ps and on top of that in about a week Ill have a quaife too to battle)
how many basses do you have?
From a musician's standpoint... not enough. He (and I) needs to get back into playing. I miss not hearing funk bass thru the house.
What sub-model of the Protege. Both engines were 1.8's, only one was the BP. This would be a good question for Rob.
This is exactly what I was getting at a few pages ago. Big difference from just looping the lines. You're going in and removing all the seals that effectively make it a power steering rack. With those seals in place you still have to push around power steering fluid and that's what gives it a mushy feel.
Only in that it's a closer ratio so you don't have as much mechanical advantage. In rough order of heaviest to lightest:
1. P/S with looped/removed and plugged lines
2. P/S converted to manual
3. Manual rack
4. P/S
Personally, I favor the depowered rack due to the closer ratio so I'll live with the slightly heavier feel. At speed whatever discrepancy between the two is gone and the advantage goes to the depowered rack (i.e quicker turn-in, less movement of the wheel, etc.).
i know someone that would LOVE to sit down and play drums with you guys rocking out.. haha
So Phen asked Rob what he thought about the steering rack and he said he thinks the 91 Protege will be the best best. According to RockAuto it's $217 + shipping. So I might order one next week and try to bolt it in. I'd rather not go a custom route with welding tie rods on and such, but if it means I can go with a manual rack then I'll go for it. I just hope Josh has some welding gas leftover from Wes' truck. heh-heh
http://my.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=242690
And I've been thinking about the motor lately. Wes asked if I would sell him my DE and he would just rebuild it. Then I got to thinking, well why don't I just do that, derr? (Sorry Wes, but thanks for the idea. I'll get you some Wendy's so we're still cool. Cool?)
But the DE in the garage has 176k miles on it and a blown head gasket. I would send the heads and block out to be refinished but don't know any good local shops I can trust. (No way is it going to Big3Racing). Then I was thinking I might as well replace the pistons, valves and cams while the block and heads are being refinished. But I've never built a motor before so it's a little intimidating. And while cost is an issue, I'll have about $1000 a month for funding but am in no huge rush to have my P6 back. Of course I say that now while it's winter but when spring hits I'm going to be pissed I don't have a toy. haha
So what do you guys think? Should I rebuild the DE or just buy a ZE? I'm not going for crazy power and am always on the fence about boosting it. It will be for road course track days at Mid-Ohio, BeaveRun and the like, not for drag racing. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. (2thumbs)
http://my.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=242690
And I've been thinking about the motor lately. Wes asked if I would sell him my DE and he would just rebuild it. Then I got to thinking, well why don't I just do that, derr? (Sorry Wes, but thanks for the idea. I'll get you some Wendy's so we're still cool. Cool?)
But the DE in the garage has 176k miles on it and a blown head gasket. I would send the heads and block out to be refinished but don't know any good local shops I can trust. (No way is it going to Big3Racing). Then I was thinking I might as well replace the pistons, valves and cams while the block and heads are being refinished. But I've never built a motor before so it's a little intimidating. And while cost is an issue, I'll have about $1000 a month for funding but am in no huge rush to have my P6 back. Of course I say that now while it's winter but when spring hits I'm going to be pissed I don't have a toy. haha
So what do you guys think? Should I rebuild the DE or just buy a ZE? I'm not going for crazy power and am always on the fence about boosting it. It will be for road course track days at Mid-Ohio, BeaveRun and the like, not for drag racing. Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. (2thumbs)
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