Bought a set of FSD's from SU...using stock springs on 08 MS3. Rebound dampening on the Koni's is far superior to the practically nonexistent rebound on the stock dampers. Driving aggressively with the stock setup would just load the suspension so when you hit a bump your compression travel was already near max'd and the pogo effect would start, even more interesting if you threw some lateral G's in the equation.
Install per Forum DIY went quickly. Noticed a correctly beveled block of would to fit in the spindle arm recess inboard to the ABS sensor helped level the jack so slippage didn't occur for me at all, 1 man job. If you place some sort of solid support on the bottom of the strut as it exits the spindle ( I used a bottle jack), as you jack down the spindle arm against the spring perch, the force is concentrated a bit better. An overnight PB Blaster soak took care of things without using the 1/4" drive/reverse bolt against 25 cent piece hints.
For ft. strut insert, I found taking my time sanding out the inner strut hole (200 grit wet/dry) with particularly attention to the bottom 1/2" where a ridge of rust had built up shouldn't be hurried. Clean out well with repeat brake cleaner spray/paper towels and use your favorite light lube...antiseize paste, WD-40, a coating of engine oil. One of my Koni's needed their paint layer sanded down, one didn't.....I'd give new strut bottoms a 200 grit rub down in general.
I bought a couple 8mm x 1.25mm x 50mm bolts, cut the heads off and screwed them into the top bearing plate so I could line up the top 2-3 holes a bit easier and allowed the strut more free play while trying to line up the bottom end. Also lets you move the holes around to line them up for final tightening more easily.
Get the strut bottom started in the spindle correctly...you can get it a bit cocked so eyeball it from the front/side and make sure the axis line up.
I again used a beveled piece of wood under the control arm so my jacking action was more in line with the strut, jack up strut snug to top, drop down a tad and rotate the strut so the slot/flange line, rejack...spray some lube on the top seam, jack a couple pumps, hit strut body with a deadblow hammer..this would get my strut to drop down most every time. If strut doesn't move, stick prybar or robust screwdriver in bottom of slot and lever opening. Rejack a couple more, repeat until flange seam bottoms out. Do not keep jacking the snot out of the strut with it not dropping in despite the above hints..you will distort the top mount if you persist. Strut is either "cocked" a bit or the barrel needs better surface prep.
When installed, drop jack until strut can just be moved on top, and center strut by eye..mine were dead center before install and reinstalled same way. Mount holes do allow a fair amount of camber in/out play so don't just tighten top 3 bolts down without checking postion.
Install per Forum DIY went quickly. Noticed a correctly beveled block of would to fit in the spindle arm recess inboard to the ABS sensor helped level the jack so slippage didn't occur for me at all, 1 man job. If you place some sort of solid support on the bottom of the strut as it exits the spindle ( I used a bottle jack), as you jack down the spindle arm against the spring perch, the force is concentrated a bit better. An overnight PB Blaster soak took care of things without using the 1/4" drive/reverse bolt against 25 cent piece hints.
For ft. strut insert, I found taking my time sanding out the inner strut hole (200 grit wet/dry) with particularly attention to the bottom 1/2" where a ridge of rust had built up shouldn't be hurried. Clean out well with repeat brake cleaner spray/paper towels and use your favorite light lube...antiseize paste, WD-40, a coating of engine oil. One of my Koni's needed their paint layer sanded down, one didn't.....I'd give new strut bottoms a 200 grit rub down in general.
I bought a couple 8mm x 1.25mm x 50mm bolts, cut the heads off and screwed them into the top bearing plate so I could line up the top 2-3 holes a bit easier and allowed the strut more free play while trying to line up the bottom end. Also lets you move the holes around to line them up for final tightening more easily.
Get the strut bottom started in the spindle correctly...you can get it a bit cocked so eyeball it from the front/side and make sure the axis line up.
I again used a beveled piece of wood under the control arm so my jacking action was more in line with the strut, jack up strut snug to top, drop down a tad and rotate the strut so the slot/flange line, rejack...spray some lube on the top seam, jack a couple pumps, hit strut body with a deadblow hammer..this would get my strut to drop down most every time. If strut doesn't move, stick prybar or robust screwdriver in bottom of slot and lever opening. Rejack a couple more, repeat until flange seam bottoms out. Do not keep jacking the snot out of the strut with it not dropping in despite the above hints..you will distort the top mount if you persist. Strut is either "cocked" a bit or the barrel needs better surface prep.
When installed, drop jack until strut can just be moved on top, and center strut by eye..mine were dead center before install and reinstalled same way. Mount holes do allow a fair amount of camber in/out play so don't just tighten top 3 bolts down without checking postion.
