Does it vary when you veer left and right a little? Make sure you check for ANY play in the tie rod ends by jacking it up and trying to force the tire/wheel left and right. Any play - you need a new inner or outer end.
Knock knock knocking
- Thread starter Jellybean
- Start date
Does it vary when you veer left and right a little? Make sure you check for ANY play in the tie rod ends by jacking it up and trying to force the tire/wheel left and right. Any play - you need a new inner or outer end.
Rabid - By "veer" do you mean just turning the steering wheel slightly to take up the slack, just on the verge of changing direction - or - going around a corner on 2 wheels? Seems that when in the "neutral" streering position, the knock is very faint as compared to when the steering wheel is slightly loaded (taken up the slack). When testing for play, the wheels need to be off the ground and steering wheel unlocked or locked? Thanks
I mean just a subtle left or right load. (Remember that wheel bearings will do this too, but really if more heavily turning and in one direction only) The part that I'm unsure of is how it didn't vary for you when you took it out of gear at speed - I thought that might change it, but I had this problem years ago so I'm not sure.
Anyway, yeah jack up each side, separately, and leave the tire on, lugs tight. You don't need to lock the steering wheel, but can. Grab the tire sides and alternately push and pull on each side, trying to turn the wheel right and left. You should not hear or feel any play. Even a little can cause a flutter in straight-ahead driving - kinda like a shopping cart wheel vibrating. If there is play, you then need to isolate it to a tie rod end, loose wheel bearing, rack play, etc. At this point you can pull the wheel and grab the rotor so you can figure out where the play is.
Anyway, yeah jack up each side, separately, and leave the tire on, lugs tight. You don't need to lock the steering wheel, but can. Grab the tire sides and alternately push and pull on each side, trying to turn the wheel right and left. You should not hear or feel any play. Even a little can cause a flutter in straight-ahead driving - kinda like a shopping cart wheel vibrating. If there is play, you then need to isolate it to a tie rod end, loose wheel bearing, rack play, etc. At this point you can pull the wheel and grab the rotor so you can figure out where the play is.
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lil_red_wagon
Member
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- lil white p5
mine did that with a bent strut
OK, this is going to sound stupid. Shane was most correct thus far re: a weight may have fallen off. I noticed the end of an object in the tires's outer rib yesterday. Turned out to be a 1/4" screw ~1" long. Added weight! So had that tire patched and balanced, but put it on the rear position. Haven't done any real driving other than to/from work on city streets, so can't speak to the warble or heavy knocking. I would think that the knocking is gone, but like to dedicate some time to higher speed driving on smoother roads to evaluate. So, this weekend I'll do some of this AND test the looseness of the ball joints, etc.
A new question is do these cars like to tram-line, IE:follow the ruts in the road, esp. during braking? Is this a by product of the alignment, or just the car? If alignment related, what would be the parameter contributing to this - to much toe out? I suppose that the condition of the suspension (loose tie rods/bearing/etc. also have an impact, so I'll have to get everything into good condition first.
A new question is do these cars like to tram-line, IE:follow the ruts in the road, esp. during braking? Is this a by product of the alignment, or just the car? If alignment related, what would be the parameter contributing to this - to much toe out? I suppose that the condition of the suspension (loose tie rods/bearing/etc. also have an impact, so I'll have to get everything into good condition first.
they can. Any car with 'agressive' toe settings will tend to follow the road. My miata's actually a little spooky to drive on the interstate for the first few minutes while I get used to the constant corrections. I've got 1/8" total toe out, up front. But you don't really even need that much for it to happen.
It can either be toe out front or toe in rear. In either case, it's going to handle funny
It can either be toe out front or toe in rear. In either case, it's going to handle funny
Wow, O.K. so replace your rotor's, struts, Upper strut mounts, wheel bearings, get dynamic balance, and while your at it change your CV shafts.
That should fix your problem. LOL
Your rotors will cause the steering wheel to shimmy when appling the brakes if they are out and need turned. Doesn't sound like the case.
Is the noise while driving in straight line and on a smooth road. If so I would lean toward bearings. And no don't make them any tighter. If they are bad they need replaced, making them tighter will do you more damage and if they get hot enough from tightening them you can weld your bearing to the hub. Replacing them is simple and straight foward if you have even replaced a CV shaft.
That should fix your problem. LOL
Your rotors will cause the steering wheel to shimmy when appling the brakes if they are out and need turned. Doesn't sound like the case.
Is the noise while driving in straight line and on a smooth road. If so I would lean toward bearings. And no don't make them any tighter. If they are bad they need replaced, making them tighter will do you more damage and if they get hot enough from tightening them you can weld your bearing to the hub. Replacing them is simple and straight foward if you have even replaced a CV shaft.
For what it's worth, I've had 3 wheel bearings replaced in 1 year.
Right front: 1 year ago, and today
Left front: 1 week ago
Sucks because of the price, but something is up with wheel bearings on this car I think. Also sucks because I love my car.
My mechanic did tell me today that the right front hub might need replaced soon, but not necessarily today. He said that part is $200 from Mazda and no one makes it aftermarket. (ouch!)
Good luck!
Right front: 1 year ago, and today
Left front: 1 week ago
Sucks because of the price, but something is up with wheel bearings on this car I think. Also sucks because I love my car.
My mechanic did tell me today that the right front hub might need replaced soon, but not necessarily today. He said that part is $200 from Mazda and no one makes it aftermarket. (ouch!)
Good luck!
My car is in being looked at today and my problem is a knocking sound coming from the rear when I'm going in a straight line, forward or reverse.
The mechanic just phoned and said he thinks its the wheel bearing, but suggested I take it to a Mazda mechanic just to be sure.
Does this sound like a wheel bearing problem folks?
The mechanic just phoned and said he thinks its the wheel bearing, but suggested I take it to a Mazda mechanic just to be sure.
Does this sound like a wheel bearing problem folks?
If it only a bolt in the rear, why is it $270 to get it fixed. It must be the labor and time that makes it this expensive.
Huh? No, the hub and wheel bearing assembly is one bolt-in piece (ie, you could do it with hand tool if you really wanted to), as opposed to needing to disassemble the hub and use a press to press the bearing in and out. The part is about $120-150 depending on where you look. Try OnlineMazdaParts or MazdaPartsZone for starters. And I can see it taking an hour of labor to do it, maybe less with air tools. Doesn't sound too unfair of a price, but if you're mechanically inclined and can borrow an electrical impact and a 32mm (I think) socket, you'll be in good shape.
For what it's worth, I've had 3 wheel bearings replaced in 1 year.
Right front: 1 year ago, and today
Left front: 1 week ago
Sucks because of the price, but something is up with wheel bearings on this car I think. Also sucks because I love my car.
My mechanic did tell me today that the right front hub might need replaced soon, but not necessarily today. He said that part is $200 from Mazda and no one makes it aftermarket. (ouch!)
Good luck!
your mechanic likes to have anal sex with you... the front bearing is available anywhere. I got mine at autozone for 40 bucks. And it was a Timken bearing (good quality)
I just looked up the rear... 89 bucks...
How do you know if its getting worse, does the knocking get louder. Right now it sounds faint and can only be heard at low speeds, mostly when I'm backing up.
I'm also only a 12 minute drive to work, so I don't put to many km on in a week.