Knock knock knocking

Jellybean

Member
I have an issue just surface in my Protege5. Noticed at about 40mph upwards I have a tackle knock felt through the steering wheel and a sort of warble sound occuring at the same frequency. Obviously speed related and maybe outboard of the transmission - when I disengage the tranny while rolling, it is still there. Warped rotors? Bent rim? Yellow crested warbler in the grill? Nothing apparent. Any ideas/suggestions of where to look for the likely culprit? Thanks.
 
Warped rotors you would feel pulling wobble during braking. Maybe just a bad spot on the tire or maybe a weight fell off the wheel and it's out of balance.
 
Warped rotors you would feel pulling wobble during braking. Maybe just a bad spot on the tire or maybe a weight fell off the wheel and it's out of balance.

Feels like more of a lateral input. I think a missing wheel weight would cause more of a vertical disturbance, but I can have the balance checked. But at about 35-40 were the noise (warble, knocking) becomes perceptable, there is a knocking sound and sensation in the steering wheel. Maybe loose/bad tie rods allowing the rack to wobble against the pinion? Or, a lot of lateral run out in the tire to drive the wobble into the rack? New tires had been put on not too long ago. With the amount of force that was required to remove some of the lug nuts, I was thinking warped rotor. I also saw that only the outer half of the LF rotor was in contact with the pad on outer surface while the "inner" diameter was rusty from non-use/contact. (didn't see the inside surface yet). Also, removed the tire/wheel assemblies, which were bonded to the hubs, and cleaned the mating surfaces to make sure that the wheels weren't cocked on the hub. Does this help provide any more clues?
Would the CV joints ever make a knocking or warble noise?
 
possibly

not that you would feel it through the steering wheel but a warble noise could possibly be a wheel bearing type noise, espicially if it gets louder with speed. just a thought
 
Sounds like something in the suspension is bent enough to throw your alignment. Control arm is the usual suspect. If after 40mph the vibration starts going away, and almost unnoticeable at 60mph, I can almost guarantee it's a flawed suspension. I've gone through control arms and suspension parts to the point that I'm a tell-how-your-car-is-******-up-via-sound pro.

-Frank
 
Sounds like something in the suspension is bent enough to throw your alignment. Control arm is the usual suspect. If after 40mph the vibration starts going away, and almost unnoticeable at 60mph, I can almost guarantee it's a flawed suspension. I've gone through control arms and suspension parts to the point that I'm a tell-how-your-car-is-******-up-via-sound pro.

-Frank

Flagship - No, it's the other way - gets louder the faster I go. But not too much louder, just form "can I hear something" to "what's that noise" as far as the warble is concerned. The bearing may be something to look into. If the wheel is wobbling, that would drive the rack and knock into the pinion and make the knocking noise. I was also suspecting too much toe in, but there is no apparent wear pattern. I'll have to get under it and start yanking on the rods and shaking the wheels to see if something feels loose.
 
Warped rotors you would feel pulling wobble during braking. Maybe just a bad spot on the tire or maybe a weight fell off the wheel and it's out of balance.

Shane - Yes, I noticed that originally from the marks and corrosion areas on the rim that rim flange weights were used on the inboard side (probably prior to new tires being mounted). But now there are none, only the stick-on center rim weights (applied near the inboard side of the spokes). Do you know if it is necessary, or from your experience/observations, if flange weights are used in conjuction with the center stick-on weights? I believe that the center stick-on weights do not control the lateral forces as well as flange mounted weights.
 
I always request the stick on weights as an alternative like many to keep from leaving marks on the wheels. I actually have very little clearance and one time they used the crimp on weights on the inside lip and it was knocked off by hitting part of the strut. They normally use one or the other not both.

Have you jacked up that side of the vehicle to see if there is any lateral wobble from a bad wheel bearing?
 
Shane- No, haven't checked for wobble/excessive play yet - buried in snow & ice (ain't winter great?) yesterday and today thus far. But, Monday and Tuesday I did remove all 4 tire/wheel assemblies. Basically, a SOP to clean these up before getting a flat and not being able to change on the road. Of course, the wheels were "welded" to the hubs from corrosion and the lug nuts cranked down to umpteen hundred ft-lbs.. But I did notice that at least one wheel had both crimp-on flange weights and stick-ons. Do you know if the crimp-ons were from the factory? Now that I can get the wheels off in a minute or two, I'll check for weights and play this weekend. Probably rip the weights off so new weights aren't just added to the existing and get a good dymanic balance from scratch if I don't detect any other slop.
How difficult is it to replace the front bearings? Can they be tightened up a notch (I suppose they have the castelated nut & cotter pin) to see if they were installed just a little loose?
 
I always request the stick on weights as an alternative like many to keep from leaving marks on the wheels. I actually have very little clearance and one time they used the crimp on weights on the inside lip and it was knocked off by hitting part of the strut. They normally use one or the other not both.

Have you jacked up that side of the vehicle to see if there is any lateral wobble from a bad wheel bearing?


On our wheels I think we're supposed to use the adhesive weights. There's no good place to crimp on the wheel. Anyone who puts crimp weights on your ride needs a swift pop to the back of the head.
 
I think that the inside flange is conventional, so it can accept the crimp on weight, but the outer is a "flangless" design. Yeah, if someone tried to put a crimp weight onthe outside flange, he'd had better find a new profession.
If your flange mounted wheel weight hits the strut, you've got a BIG problem. That should be physically impossible. I could maybe see when installing the tire/wheel assembly on the hub, you could graze the studs, hub or maybe the spring seat and possible knock off the weight, but never have the strut knock the weight off when the wheel is finally mounted.
 
Son of a damn it. Now I've got "Knocking on heaven's door" stuck in my head. It's the 1st thing I thought of when I saw the thread title...
bastards :(
 
Son of a damn it. Now I've got "Knocking on heaven's door" stuck in my head. It's the 1st thing I thought of when I saw the thread title...
bastards :(

Hopefully GNR's version. I forget who did the original.




FYI, you can crimp weights on the insode or outside of the rim. Go inside though so your finish isn't scratched.

I would still check the bearings if a balance doesn't fix it.
 
I see your point and you have now done the same thing to me!

KNOCK KNOCK KNOCKIN ON HEAVENS DOO OOR OOR A YAY YAY YAAAAA!
 
BAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA p0wn3d! Then again, I had "Rubber Band Man" or whatever the F that song is stuck in my head earlier today hahaha
 
I'm more of a Pantera - Walk kind of guy. Especially nice when someone on the conference call asks who is jamming.lol
 
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