Justanothermp5's Build Thread

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alright well i got alot of pics but there just pics to help me remember where everything goes lol so im not going to post those up

im going to try and get the axles out and then i can pull the engine, wish me luck!
 
hey guys! i have a question regarding my timing belt.. i just rebuilt the head and put it back on,know iam trying to install the timing belt. i lined up the camshafts timing and as well as the crankshaft. replaced the tensioner,but for some reason everytime i try to slip on the beltt the stupid crankshaft moves on me.do i need to do something with the tensioner and the spring or what? oh by the way i have a 2003 mazdaspeed protege.2.0 turbo.. any advise will be greatly appreciated...thx in advance

your best bet is to have a few friends there for you. What i did was slipped the belt on everything but the tensioner. I had a friend hold the camshafts, and another hold the crank, then we slipped it over the tensioner and installed the spring.
 
k guys, got the engine out of the car, axles literally just slid out with like 2 blows of a chisel, engine is still on the host with the trans connected, to tired to finish
engine disassembly and pics will have to wait as im going out to eat with my gf lol
ill post up the pics when im back
 
well here are the pics i have so far, not to many but ill have more today when i start taking the engine apart
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looks nasty in there, valves looked really clean though..wierd
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turbo all bolted up, ready to go in
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engine about to come out
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engine out, dont mind the VC color, i was experimenting lol
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empty
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notice all the coolant on the ground lol, apparently the coolant likes to come out once you start lifting the engine
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******* mazda dealers, yes that is a SHOP RAG WEDGED INBETWEEN MY TRANS AND ENGINE, happened when i let them do my clutch
NEVER AGAIN
 
Lmfao!! That rag thing is priceless!

Lookin good, can't wait to get started on mine and get it back on the road!
 
dam....should have said somethin earlier about the VC,
i already started stripping the paint off lol im going to attempt to polish it, hope it turns out good

well so far i got the trans off, clutch and flywheel off and i was trying to get the engine on the engine stand.
but of course the trans to block bolts are too big and now i have to drill out the holes on the engine stand so they can go through
more pics in a sec once i upload them

edit: only four pics so im going to put them here and save for a bigger update later
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not sure about those marks on the flywheel...
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-The Rag
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prob should have put this one first but, oh well
 
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idk much about these engines but is there supposed to be all this oil here?
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oil pan and windage tray off the engine
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i got the cams out already but didnt take a pic, so this will do i guess lol
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i undid the water pump and what happened? MORE ******* COOLAnt, i was like for real? this much coolant was in here? let it drain for 5 mins and then i was good to go
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how they look? normal? havent replaced them in...a long time lol
 
as to your pic of the plugs, yeah more or less normal, the one on the right looks a little too brown for my likings though, REMEMBER to switch to colder plugs, Iriadium (spelled wrong, whatever) plugs are the best bet for terbow's i hear. search that before going off of my mind during finals
 
no. iridiums are not good.

one step colder is only good if you tune for it.

stock heat range plugs are alright.

and as far as the oil-rear main seal leak.. that's it!
 
no. iridiums are not good.

one step colder is only good if you tune for it.

i heard about the one step with tune is good.

I ran iridiums in my old turbo'd car, i was told to run them because i was running higher boost, leaner F/A, and way advanced timing. I did notice a difference then when i had the bosch +4 (like the ones in the pic up there). and it was all for the better
 
ah motherfucker...i noticed oil build up but didnt think anything of it

edit: so i should get 1 step colder plugs then? since im going to be far from a stock MSP set up anyways, im going to run 10psi, or plan on running 10
i heard NGK's where good but ive never gapped plugs before, i know, the easiest things i havent done
how do u gap plugs exactly?
 
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You get a Sparkplug gapper from an auto parts store or buy some feeler gauges and set the gap to the manufacturer's specs.... It's super simple.... find the right gap width, put the measuring instrument in between the two leads and then push the plug onto something solid like a piece of wood or metal till the measuring instrument slides in and out of the "gap" slightly tight or sticky....
 
oh...thats it? dam ok, well sounds pretty ****** easy
thanks man

No Prob. It's about one of the easiest things you can do to any part inside your motor.

If you do any of this during the gapping... (uhm) ...Maybe you should ask someone to help....
 
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