I got one of those genysis techforce scanners that will tell everything there is to know about the engines data that the ecu see's. I had a problem with sputtering alot in the past, but every sense i installed colder plugs and ran a tight gap the sputtering went away!! or at least at 18psi anyways. Now i was thinking of turning up the boost slightly more and data logging every engine function to see exactly why it might cut out. Everyone in the past swore that it was fuel cut causing the sputtering, yet my car ran rich as hell even with the sputtering problem. and just by changing the plugs and running a shorter gap the sputtering went away, so that alone pretty much proves that it wasnt running out of fuel in my case, in fact i think the reason it was sputtering was because it was dumping too much fuel in causing intermittent spark plug blow out. If only i had the scanner then! My question to the tunning gurus is what parameters should i be looking at while doing my data log?? im thinking, rpm, boost, timing, injector duty cycle and pulse width, fuel pressure before and after the CDFP any others i should map out?? and once i figure out to upload the results from the scanner i can post them for all to see. Thanks.
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Just picked up a new crazy scanner, what to do?
- Thread starter nig3
- Start date
you are right the SPUTTERING is sparkplug blow out. but that is not the same as the cut many see. i still get it here and there in super cold temps. i still believe it is lack of fuel. thats the one thing you need a lot more of as the temps drop....fuel. why can i run 20psi when it is 40 dergees outside, but if it drops below 30 degrees i get cut a 5k ?? i think it is just because the cold air requires a lot more fuel to burn properly and the car cant keep up with its needs. i may be wrong but who knows. i hope you can find something with that tool of yours. i get my dashhawk this week too. i plan on doing some runs and logs soon..... not too soon, i just had surgery on wed !!
No tuning guru here but I sure would appreciate the throttle plate voltage range at Wot in all gears from 5000rpm till 6500 if she'll climb that high. Will that new gizmo do that? Get all the data it is able to gather! Unless of course you are unable to replicate the 4th, 5th, and 6th gear wheel speeds on a closed course or a dyno. Thanks for heads up on tightening gap on step down plugs.
i dont have my DH yet...its in the mail. i have had my voltage logged on the dyno a few times though, there are also several logs on the forums, many by "dadasracecar".in temps above 60 degrees i usually see a max TB opening of 75% about 45% during spool up and after 5k when the power drops off.
many have seen a max of 35% opening in the cold. the weird thing is, it seems to make no difference in performance. the engine still gets the same amount of boost, and runs the same timing, and AFR, so the power being produced should be the same. i think the throttle control on the low end is a good idea. it helps tame the spikes that small turbos are known for. when it closes up top is what pisses me off. i'm sure the car would hold a little more boost in the high RPM if the throttle didnt shut.
many have seen a max of 35% opening in the cold. the weird thing is, it seems to make no difference in performance. the engine still gets the same amount of boost, and runs the same timing, and AFR, so the power being produced should be the same. i think the throttle control on the low end is a good idea. it helps tame the spikes that small turbos are known for. when it closes up top is what pisses me off. i'm sure the car would hold a little more boost in the high RPM if the throttle didnt shut.
Yes that is what i believe i am trying to find the best way to make power to alleged redline. Mine runs fine till just beyond 6000. since I am looking to achieve all of rpm range I can get. I'll need to get the data for myself but it's appreciated for sure when guys can help me close in the direction I should take. Thanks for help. sounds like about 3.7v?
the trick to high end power is going to be holding boost, which may or may not involve the throttle plate. i do think keeping the plate more open/longer will keep the turbo spinning faster resulting in more boost up top. i also think this can be achieved in other ways. for example, myself along woth help from PG have arranged with FORGE to get a new wastegate actuator made for our cars. now this ball is just getting rolling, so any news or product....if any will be a ways out still. a WGA with a stiffer preload will do 2 things. for one it will help the big boost cars spool up faster. and for 2 it will help the car hold more boost at the high RPM. the longer you hold the boost on this thing the higher your peak HP will get. even if the throttle is open 35%...who cares if you got 20psi in the manifold !
the trick to high end power is going to be holding boost, which may or may not involve the throttle plate. i do think keeping the plate more open/longer will keep the turbo spinning faster resulting in more boost up top. i also think this can be achieved in other ways. for example, myself along woth help from PG have arranged with FORGE to get a new wastegate actuator made for our cars. now this ball is just getting rolling, so any news or product....if any will be a ways out still. a WGA with a stiffer preload will do 2 things. for one it will help the big boost cars spool up faster. and for 2 it will help the car hold more boost at the high RPM. the longer you hold the boost on this thing the higher your peak HP will get. even if the throttle is open 35%...who cares if you got 20psi in the manifold !
Im not trying to correct you in anyway but on cars with small turbos like ours you will make more power up top if the boost tapers down, thats why it does that from the factory, The turbo runs out of its efficiency range pretty quick at high rpms and high boost, the taper effect doesnt mean your loosing power at all, its just cooling the air more at high rpms. Remember im just talking about stock turbo cars or anything with a small turbo.
you are right, but that is when things like meth come in. you can push the turbo past its comfort zone, then cool it down with meth. i do think the car can effectivly hold more boost than it does up top. and as lond as it can be done efficiently it will make more power. but yes, if that air is just too damn hot, i wont do any good.
you are right, but that is when things like meth come in. you can push the turbo past its comfort zone, then cool it down with meth. i do think the car can effectivly hold more boost than it does up top. and as lond as it can be done efficiently it will make more power. but yes, if that air is just too damn hot, i wont do any good.
Yesir!(iagree)
you are right, but that is when things like meth come in. you can push the turbo past its comfort zone, then cool it down with meth. i do think the car can effectivly hold more boost than it does up top. and as lond as it can be done efficiently it will make more power. but yes, if that air is just too damn hot, i wont do any good.
Or just a bigger intercooler will take care of that... Either way, i think re-working the stock turbo will net you more than 30hp.
The map for the Hitachi looks like it's blowing hot air sooner than I would like. Just an opinion. I will upgrade to a larger ball bearing at some point. I'm a little surprised that some have said holding 22#. I would prefer not to be on the ragged edge in this area. and yes sir nig3, injectors,timing afr um best weather satellite in my area all in relation to gear and rpm. Must be nice to work in such a cool shop that you have access to these things! thankz
samsel450r
Member
ya i get hesitation in 70 degree weather in 5th and 6th gear wot at around 5k rpm... i have a ms cai, turboxs test pipe, 17-19 psi, boost tubes, hks bov, 1 step colder plugs gapped at 0.030 how much lower should i gap my plugs???
Do you know at what rpm's the boost drops off, in these gears?
my boost still starts to fall at 5500. i can hold 20psi solid from 2500-5500.
but between 5500-6500 it will fall to 15psi. and if i hold all the way to the rev limiter i see about 13psi. at least for my setup i still think 6k is the best shift point.
thanks
You can hit your limiter in the higher gears! I really can't do anything between about 6100 to 6500 in the higher gears. There is no power
my boost still starts to fall at 5500. i can hold 20psi solid from 2500-5500.
but between 5500-6500 it will fall to 15psi. and if i hold all the way to the rev limiter i see about 13psi. at least for my setup i still think 6k is the best shift point.
You can hit your limiter in the higher gears! I really can't do anything between about 6100 to 6500 in the higher gears. There is no power
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