just got new mazda 6 any cheap performance mods

hey everyone i just got a 2006 mazda 6 5 speed 4 cylinder and i am wondering what cheap inexpensive performance mods i can get for the drivetrain or engine for my new car so i can go faster
 
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hey everyone i just got a 2006 mazda 6 5 speed 4 cylinder and i am wondering what cheap inexpensive performance mods i can get for the drivetrain or engine for my new car so i can go faster

hmm cheap.. Drop in KN filter? test pipe.. probably two cheapest things or make your own cold air box intake
 
Unless you just want it for the sound i would save your money. An intake and or catback exhaust will probably net you 5-10hp and barely make a difference. If you plan on keeping the car for awhile and want the sound then go for it -- just dont expect it to be a rocket ship without adding nitrous/turbo/supercharger/motorswap.
 
If your looking to pull as much power out of this motor as possible, I'd suggest: CAI/SRI, test pipe (not emissions legal) OR high-flow cat, headers, WeaponX coils and plugs, cat-back exhaust, smaller diameter/lighter underdrive pulley, etc etc. However, this will cost you and you MIGHT see 40WHP.

Also they have turbo kits for the NA 2.3L Mz3, I'd assume those would bolt right up to the 6 with no problem.
 
If your looking to pull as much power out of this motor as possible, I'd suggest: CAI/SRI, test pipe (not emissions legal) OR high-flow cat, headers, WeaponX coils and plugs, cat-back exhaust, smaller diameter/lighter underdrive pulley, etc etc. However, this will cost you and you MIGHT see 40WHP.

Also they have turbo kits for the NA 2.3L Mz3, I'd assume those would bolt right up to the 6 with no problem.


40whp from intake, exhaust, and a pulley? I think not. I would be shocked if he got 15. Granted not all cars start equal, i know a v6 hyundai tiburon can get 15whp from just an intake but those examples are rare. My speed 6 is turbocharged and didnt get squat from a CAI or my test pipe & catback. All i could feel is the turbo spools a little quicker and there is a little bit extra on the top end. 40whp gain from a stock N/A 4cylinder would require head work and cams on top of the bolt ons.

Then your still only making 180whp to the wheel in a car that weighs over 3000lbs. Again, im not trying to be rude. i just simply trying to point out that you can invest a fortune and still have a slow car.

A turbo kit would allow him to make some real power but its not a cheap bolt on. You need a new intake, exhaust manifold, turbo, wastegate, blow off valve, tuning, fuel pump, injectors, downpipe, exhaust. This could easily add up to over $3,000. If he wants extra power cheap as possible you cant beat a 50 shot wet nitrous kit. get one step colder plugs and you only use it when you want it... otherwise the car drives just as it did bone stock. Ive got wet nitrous kits for under $500
 
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If your looking to pull as much power out of this motor as possible, I'd suggest: CAI/SRI, test pipe (not emissions legal) OR high-flow cat, headers, WeaponX coils and plugs, cat-back exhaust, smaller diameter/lighter underdrive pulley, etc etc. However, this will cost you and you MIGHT see 40WHP.

Also they have turbo kits for the NA 2.3L Mz3, I'd assume those would bolt right up to the 6 with no problem.

40whp from intake, exhaust, and a pulley? I think not.

I simply listed what is available. 40WHP was probably a little generous, the "MIGHT" was intented as "most likely not" but I'm not just talking about modifying the catback or intake, I'm talking about a COMPLETE exhaust, not just a catback and the rest stock. (this is what most people do) I was simply listing popular mods that are done. I don't know of anyone that makes cams for any variation of the 6.
 
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I just don't want the original poster to think if he gets an intake, complete exhaust, and a pulley that his car will be significantly faster. 30-40whp is a HUGE gain for a 2.3 N/A motor, it would have to be extremely detuned from the factory such as the RSX K20 engine 200hp (also found in the S2000 as 240hp)

Previously I had a 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R spec v with a 2.5l 4 cylinder. bone stock they dyno 145whp~ with ALL the bolt ons including more then you listed you were lucky to get 160-165whp. We are talking a $500 header, $600 cat back, $300 intake, $300 S-AFC + dyno time, pulley, balance shaft delete... etc

People were investing $2000 to get 15whp, if you take anything from this -- its do your homework and never assume that you will get the "advertised dyno gain". Read other peoples build threads, look at their dyno charts -- see before and after for each part. Its just in my opinion if you want to make the car faster go nitrous or turbo. If you dont want all that headache save the money and trade up to the V6 or a speed3/6
 
40whp from intake, exhaust, and a pulley? I think not. I would be shocked if he got 15. Granted not all cars start equal, i know a v6 hyundai tiburon can get 15whp from just an intake but those examples are rare. My speed 6 is turbocharged and didnt get squat from a CAI or my test pipe & catback. All i could feel is the turbo spools a little quicker and there is a little bit extra on the top end. 40whp gain from a stock N/A 4cylinder would require head work and cams on top of the bolt ons.

Then your still only making 180whp to the wheel in a car that weighs over 3000lbs. Again, im not trying to be rude. i just simply trying to point out that you can invest a fortune and still have a slow car.

A turbo kit would allow him to make some real power but its not a cheap bolt on. You need a new intake, exhaust manifold, turbo, wastegate, blow off valve, tuning, fuel pump, injectors, downpipe, exhaust. This could easily add up to over $3,000. If he wants extra power cheap as possible you cant beat a 50 shot wet nitrous kit. get one step colder plugs and you only use it when you want it... otherwise the car drives just as it did bone stock. Ive got wet nitrous kits for under $500

You did not get squat from your tp, CAI, and TP? I would not call 20-30 hp squat :) Will post my dyno up soon month or so
 
Well i ran 14.8@93mph with 3" test pipe, fujita CAI, and a 3" exhaust.

I launched weak and i didnt power shift -- however 93mph trap speed is slower then a stock speed6 should trap at. So no i dont think i got squat for those mods. 20-30hp is a good gain, but in a car that weighs 3500 its not that big of deal. my sentra i couldnt feel a difference either between CAI/exhaust and bone stock. However when i added 75shot of spray it was phenominal. I ran a 13.7@104mph which is a huge increase from bone stock 15.6@89mph. I never tried it without the spray but most guys with boltons were around 15.0@91-92mph so the 75shot was making all the difference.

Now that I have a Cobb AP the car feels MUCH stronger. however the Cobb AP allows the car to fully utilized my free flowing exhaust/intake. not to mention bump boost, fix fuel trims, timing, etc. I am going to the track in july and lets hope for some 13's. going to use launch control and flat foot shifting.
 
it would have to be extremely detuned from the factory such as the RSX K20 engine 200hp (also found in the S2000 as 240hp)
this is not correct. yes the rsx(-S) model came with a 200hp k20. the s2000 however AP1 chassis came with a 240hp F20C, followed by the latest and last chassis the AP2 came with an 240hp F22C with a decreased redline of 8.5k from the formers 9k. in trade for an increase in torque and stroke.
Well i ran 14.8@93mph with 3" test pipe, fujita CAI, and a 3" exhaust.

Now that I have a Cobb AP the car feels MUCH stronger. however the Cobb AP allows the car to fully utilized my free flowing exhaust/intake. not to mention bump boost, fix fuel trims, timing, etc. I am going to the track in july and lets hope for some 13's. going to use launch control and flat foot shifting.

not trying to be a d!ck but that time has more to do with the driver and possible the conditions,(poor traction, humid temps) than the car. my drag experience on hot muggy days netted me easy 96-98mph trap speeds and 14.5 seconds easy. and i admittedly am a lousy drag racer. this was my first time launching the car. which i did terribly. this was with just a intake. one for an ms3 none the less.

if a 14.8 was the best you could muster i doubt you'll see 13's. unless you were really giving up on those runs. shaving a second with two breather mods and a ots map seems tough. hell, it could be done i suppose.

i'm nearly fully bolted and would be suprised if i see 13's cuz as i said i suck. thats not my kind of racing.

not to mention chasing low et's in this car is lost cause. the gearing is just not there. i've lost to many flash light drags because i have one more shift than the other guy.
 
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this is not correct. yes the rsx(-S) model came with a 200hp k20. the s2000 however AP1 chassis came with a 240hp F20C, followed by the latest and last chassis the AP2 came with an 240hp F22C with a decreased redline of 8.5k from the formers 9k. in trade for an increase in torque and stroke.


not trying to be a d!ck but that time has more to do with the driver and possible the conditions,(poor traction, humid temps) than the car. my drag experience on hot muggy days netted me easy 96-98mph trap speeds and 14.5 seconds easy. and i admittedly am a lousy drag racer. this was my first time launching the car. which i did terribly. this was with just a intake. one for an ms3 none the less.

if a 14.8 was the best you could muster i doubt you'll see 13's. unless you were really giving up on those runs. shaving a second with two breather mods and a ots map seems tough. hell, it could be done i suppose.

i'm nearly fully bolted and would be suprised if i see 13's cuz as i said i suck. thats not my kind of racing.

not to mention chasing low et's in this car is lost cause. the gearing is just not there. i've lost to many flash light drags because i have one more shift than the other guy.

Maybe you could explain to me why an RSX gains 40hp from adding a CAI and just a hondata tune then? sounds like its detuned to me...

I have been drag racing for ten years and its been my experience that your trap speed is not based much on driver skill but the power the car is able to put down. your E.T is greatly affected by the driver skill and makes a huge difference. For example. My 2000 Pontiac Firebird on my first pass one night did a 14.2@110mph. my second pass was 12.8@111mph. Notice how the trap speed is almost identical but the E.T was massive difference. E.T is all about the launch, trap speed is about how much power your putting down. I do plan to have 720p videos uploaded -- I have a friendly race setup against a tuned 04 volvo s60r at martin 131 dragstrip. I think he will take me on the top end so i must take advantage of launch control.

I don't want to destroy my mazda so im taking it gentle on the launches and shifting, but this summer when i have my Cobb tuned sorted out and my rear diff braces installed I am going to try one pass with launch control and flat foot shifting. assuming i dont miss a gear or something I do expect at least a high 13.

edit: I think the gearing is short but its necessary because this car is a pig. 3500lbs + passengers is a lot of weight to move for a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The extra shift hurts, i know what you mean. Its nice on a track because no matter what situation you encounter you can chose a gear that will always be in the powerband. You can minimize it by getting a short throw shifter like i did. -- ill post up a review of it tomorrow after its installed.
 
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Maybe you could explain to me why an RSX gains 40hp from adding a CAI and just a hondata tune then? sounds like its detuned to me...

I have been drag racing for ten years and its been my experience that your trap speed is not based much on driver skill but the power the car is able to put down. your E.T is greatly affected by the driver skill and makes a huge difference. For example. My 2000 Pontiac Firebird on my first pass one night did a 14.2@110mph. my second pass was 12.8@111mph. Notice how the trap speed is almost identical but the E.T was massive difference. E.T is all about the launch, trap speed is about how much power your putting down. I do plan to have 720p videos uploaded -- I have a friendly race setup against a tuned 04 volvo s60r at martin 131 dragstrip. I think he will take me on the top end so i must take advantage of launch control.

I don't want to destroy my mazda so im taking it gentle on the launches and shifting, but this summer when i have my Cobb tuned sorted out and my rear diff braces installed I am going to try one pass with launch control and flat foot shifting. assuming i dont miss a gear or something I do expect at least a high 13.

edit: I think the gearing is short but its necessary because this car is a pig. 3500lbs + passengers is a lot of weight to move for a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The extra shift hurts, i know what you mean. Its nice on a track because no matter what situation you encounter you can chose a gear that will always be in the powerband. You can minimize it by getting a short throw shifter like i did. -- ill post up a review of it tomorrow after its installed.

on the honda thing, i wanted to just point out that the rsx and s2000 have completely different motors. i could see an rsx-s picking up big gains with cai and tune in its v-tec crossover point. its set from the factory to be noticeable by the end user. "feeling the v-tec kicking in" or whatever. but this leaves alot to be gained with some tuning and better breathing.

as far as a launching this thing. its easier, but harder on the drivetrain, to do just above 4k. if you wanna be less abusive try to stay below 4k. but this nets a pretty weak launch. ha, but i guess thats true for just about any car.
 
I think awd is hard to launch. its a fine line between slipping the clutch to much and to little. When you get it just right it sure hauls ass. I didnt know they had different motors. i just assumed honda did the logical thing to make one engine to use in multiple platforms and have a cost savings.

Like GM did with the LS1. they rate it at 345hp in the corvette but only rate it at 305hp in the camaro/firebird. however on the dyno they both put down same numbers. i assumed in hondas case they just detuned the rsx-s since i read people were picking up huge gains from minor mods.
 
from what i know the k series motor responds well to basic bolt ons. 200whp N/A is possible with a K series. the F series in the S2000 is a different story. its very well engineered and doesnt pick up much with bolt ons.

so to get back on topic:
i'm actually very curious as to what 'difference' can be made with bolts ons on the N/A 2.3 4 banger mazda 6. i've been in one and it actually ran pretty good. better than i suspected since the cars still heavy. if you could free up another 10-20 with a few breather mods and some tuning it may be worth the effort.

to answer the OP's question. when you find those cheap mods to go faster let us know. the best you could really do to keep cost down is find used parts on forums. keeping your car in top running condition is the best way to maximize what you have.

hopefully some one who has modded this platform and chime in.
 
hey thanks a bunch everyone dont know some of the mods all of you were talking about but i was also wondering how much a turbo kit would cost to put in
 
um nevermind about the turbo question i found out the answer and i am pretty much going to get the car that i originally wanted but thanks antway maybe i will consider keeping it i dont know im in a bit of a pinch
 
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