Just finished MSP turbo install on MP3 & Bogging hard! HELP

MyGrind69

Member
:
01 Protege MP3 - Turbo
I just finished installing the msp kit on my mp3 in a little over 48 hours. Everything is oem except for the fmic and bov. No I dont have any gauges to see whats going on (I know I should) My issue is it starts up fine, and even runs pretty good till I hit 3500-4000 rpm then I get a harsh bogging/jerking going on. It will not let me past 4500 rpm while driving. I can rev in nuetral no prob though. Ive asked around and heard about over boosting, bad wastegate actuators, and the one I was leaning towards is fuel cut. but before i spend the money on a ssafc I would like to pin point the prob. And if so fuel cut then why? theres nothing different between my setup and a oem msp besides the fmic and bov as I said. This sucks cause I can feel the initial power of the boost then it just cuts down and bogs hard like Im hitting a wall! And yes my ecu was a 03 reflashed. please no silly maybe this kinda ideas....just people with similar issues who have solved them. Thanks
 
I would say fuel cut. You said the ecu is an 03, so you mean an MSP ecu? Or just a 03 p5 ecu or something like that? Yes you definitely need to get a Boost/Vac and Air/Fuel gauge to keep your eye on that stuff. SS AFC is a great mod, but you should still be able to drive normally without it. You will just run really rich.
 
if it's a stock MSP WGA that's your issue right there, install a Forge or ATP and the issues will most likely go away.
x2 on boost gauge and wide band A/F gauge. you might want to invest in an oil pressure gauge as well.
 
It's fuel cut. I had the exact same issue when I boosted my MP3. I threw in the reflashed MSP ECU and it wouldn't let me go past 4500 RPM without hitting a wall. My guess is that between the FMIC and the VTCS-less IM there is too much air entering the engine, and the ECU can't deliver enough fuel without going into fuel cut.

I've been wanting to test out the non-reflashed ECU for comparison, but the AFC took care of it instead. You need a tune anyway, just get the AFC and as I and others have told you, you NEED some gauges. Boost and wideband are essential, and as zuku said an oil pressure gauge wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
My car does that as well, hammer the gas and it pulls hard to about 4500 and then jerks and cuts so bad it'll snap your neck. On my car though it's because I have the Subaru 450CC injectors (or whatever the blue ones are), and it's untuned so far, so my thought is that the MAF hits 5v from the air needed to maintain combustion and thus fuel cut occurs. I could be wrong as to the why, but it only started when I dropped in the injectors, I'm still working on getting my Haltech and other stuff installed, so in the meantime I'm just driving very gently.
 
thanks for the insight guys....before i hit up protegegarage for the ss afc I wanna check out the wastegate. Someone told me to adjust the nut on the wastegate actuator to lower boost as I might be overboosting? For the few seconds I can spool up smoothly it is loud as hell! Spools so loud it sounds like a freakin jet takin off, or a tractor trailer turbo. if not then Ill go ahead with the ss afc
 
An issue i had was i was VTA so i moved the maf after the BOV and that fixed alot of issues, if you havent done that then you should.
 
vta wouldn't explain the fuel cut. he'd bogg if the vta opened due to rich conditions.

you're experiencing fuel cut.

msp ecu + cold air = cut.

trouble shoot in the easiest way possible: first get boost guage to monitor boost levels.
a afc won't save you if the wastegate is stuck.

2 if wastegate is good then get the afc to tune out the fuel cut.
 
just called protegegarage for the ss afc. hope to talk to him tommorrow and get it shipped out. I know about blowing into the wastegate to see if the diafram is spent, but how can I tell if its sticking or not? I can pull on it by hand to get it to move but its kinda tough. Im hunting hard for a boost gauge as well. the wideband will have to wait a lil. Either way I wanna figure this out fast, the thought of my car with such bad issues consumes me all day....even though its not my daily driver at the moment...still, gotta fix dude. well over 2000 bucks spent in a months time and havent been able to fully enjoy the fruits of my labor. (and I do mean my labor as I spent the whole weekend non stop on it, thanks again kraziefox for install info...the F*ing man right there) anyways keep the experiences and insight coming guys...thanks
 
just wanna add that this is my first turbo setup period so Im not familiar with fuel cut itself. I go by the direction Ive been directed in. All I know is soon as I spool up to a certain point it chokes,jerks,boggs,cuts, how ever you wanna say it...it does it hard. I have to litterally feather the gas and try to stay low rpm just to drive the car. 5th gear on the highway is almost impossible, have to stay in the slow lane! If I floor it it cuts and chokes pretty much instantly. I was told that the stock wastegate cant be adjusted to increase or decrease boost? is that true? I have the mazda tech install pdf. file which says something about adjusting the nut to lengthen the actuator arm? just trying to rule it out if possible. anyways at this point I hope its fuel cut as I would hate for the 400 bucks spent on the ss afc to be for nothing
 
could I be missing vaccuum?? the only 2 vaccum lines I installed when I put the turbo in was one for the wastegate and one for the bov, and both go to a vaccuum block T-ed into the brake booster line.
 
When I first turbo'd my car, I forgot to tight the coupler at the throttle body. Did you double check all the couplers?
 
I'm telling you it's the WGA. I had the same problem...the WGA fixed it. I don't know much about the reflashed ecu with MSP maps but the MSP ECU can handle alot more then people give it credit for there are a few guys running a ton of mods, high boost or (as I did) a larger turbo with the stock ecu with stock mapping.
Swap that WGA for an ATP or Forge
 
couplers were popping off left and right at first but I got em all tight now and has no affect on my problem
 
as I blow into my wastegate vaccum line it doesnt allow air to pass through....could my WGA still be fried?
 
mine presented itself as a good working WGA, until we smapped it and the problem went away.
 
@MyGrind69: introduce a few burst of compressed air into the WGA line and you will see how it moves, either freely and correctly or sticky and hanging up. The oem WGA rod is adjustable. Lengthen it to decrease boost, shorten to increase. That is primarily to make sure that the MAF reading target is within specifications and not to give you more boost.

The split second purchase won't be a waste of money as you will be able to eliminate the occasional yet still existent hesitation on a flashed pcm.
 
Back