Ive got an High pitched blowing wind sound coming from the car since yesterday...

[5port]

Wow great post Bill. I would like to add on the Gen 1 car like we have its great to add at least a boost gauge. When my car is in the warm-up cycle I will not exceed zero pounds boost until the engine reaches full operating temperature. You can still get very good acceleration out of the car and its nice to know your not pressurizing the head until its ready. Without the gauge its a guessing game.

Carbosam: All of this info doesnt mean you caused your turbo to fail but it will help you get a long trouble free life out of the car which is what (I think) we are all shooting for.

 

[8.5MS3]

to add to Bill's post:

When sitting in traffic for prolonged periods the intercooler will become heatsoaked (it actually only takes about 5 min) Once the boost air temps (BAT) climb above roughly 150 degrees the car will run in a type of limp mode to prevent damage caused by knock. Best thing for this is to drive out of boost for a bit once traffic opens up so the intercooler can cool down. If you get on it right away you risk massive knock and possible detonation. This is why the car can feel slow after some traffic.

 

[BillTheCat]

Excellent points, guys. Both of which solidify my recommendation for an OBDII reader of some sort, be it a Scangauge, Dashhawk, PLX, etc. Mind you, an analog boost gauge will give faster, more accurate boost pressure readings than a Dashhawk, but the Dashhawk is one handy & versatile little bugger.

 

[rigor]

the stock intake right on the turbo works loose unless you replaced your inlet pipe mine was really loose just my 2 bits