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- 02 1500 4x4, mp3
i always liked the aeromotive fpr.
Is fuel managment a must?
- Thread starter mazda2002
- Start date
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- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
the best i worked with was the begi RRFPR b/c it let you adjust the onset of boost..as well as fuel pressure once your in full boost.
But Piggy/Standalones are best route for high HP!
Also when runnin a vortech or RRFPR you need to run an inline fuel pump!
I have one for sale..really cheap!
Let me know!
Chas
But Piggy/Standalones are best route for high HP!
Also when runnin a vortech or RRFPR you need to run an inline fuel pump!
I have one for sale..really cheap!
Let me know!
Chas
I don't know as he needs the voltage clamp though... I doubt he will hit the 5V limit at 5 psi. If he doesn't hit the limit there is no need for the voltage clamp from my understanding but please correct me if I'm wrong!
EDIT: Above is confusing the fuel cut defender with the voltage clamp. He would need the voltage clamp apparently.
EDIT: Above is confusing the fuel cut defender with the voltage clamp. He would need the voltage clamp apparently.
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I'm a little confused then as I've been under the impression that the reason for the voltage clamp was to prevent fuel cut from the boost. I also have been under the impression the entire time that the voltage clamp is on the MAF signal, which won't effect the car seeing an "overly rich" condition.
Now if it is on the first O2 and is clamping the voltage at about .6 volts or whatever, then it makes plenty of sense. But I would think would have other issues as the OBDII relies on a cycling signal and zero crossings to determine AFR and that things are running as is appropriate. Clamping the signal will not show a a zero crossing and you would STILL get an overly rich condition as far as the ECU is concerned. I suppose you could clamp it below the zero crossing point of .45 volts and then the ECU would think it was lean and try to add fuel and wouldn't think it was too rich... but it would progressively add more fuel in its efforts to push it over the crossing point. So I'm wondering which of the above is the situation here...
Now if it is on the first O2 and is clamping the voltage at about .6 volts or whatever, then it makes plenty of sense. But I would think would have other issues as the OBDII relies on a cycling signal and zero crossings to determine AFR and that things are running as is appropriate. Clamping the signal will not show a a zero crossing and you would STILL get an overly rich condition as far as the ECU is concerned. I suppose you could clamp it below the zero crossing point of .45 volts and then the ECU would think it was lean and try to add fuel and wouldn't think it was too rich... but it would progressively add more fuel in its efforts to push it over the crossing point. So I'm wondering which of the above is the situation here...
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
subscribes
I was considering the AEM FPR.... supposedly my car is on its 3rd aeromotive... so I'm not prone to keep with the fool thing. my fuel did strange stuff right before the engine blew (incredibly rich.. sub 10 afr's) so I don't know if that was the fault of the fpr, or something else going on. who knows...
Thats a good question, could someone tell me if there is something else that will go wrong with one of the cars sensors?TurfBurn said:
I'm gessing that a fiew people have tried the combination of a Vortech FMU and a voltage clamp. Could you tell us how your experience was, any problems?
Little Beavis
Member
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- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
I ran a Vortech FMU and voltage clamp along with an inline pump. It did the job. But while you can pound nails with a sledgehammer, it isn't the best tool for the job. Car runs much better with the MPI that I'm using now.
I ended up with an 8:1 running 8 psi of boost. (Fuel pump had a lot to do with that.) I was also retarding some timing via the J&S so I never had a problem and would run with plenty of fuel, but a FMU will always be one step behind you because it needs to see boost before it adds fuel rather than at the same time as the boost rises (small difference, but a difference none the less. . .plus it isn't a very exact science being mechanical and all).
I ended up with an 8:1 running 8 psi of boost. (Fuel pump had a lot to do with that.) I was also retarding some timing via the J&S so I never had a problem and would run with plenty of fuel, but a FMU will always be one step behind you because it needs to see boost before it adds fuel rather than at the same time as the boost rises (small difference, but a difference none the less. . .plus it isn't a very exact science being mechanical and all).
I'm surprised it doesn't generate the errors. I realize it works, and after talking to a few more people I certainly get the purpose and how it is clamping the O2 sensor voltage (Has NOTHING to do with the MAF). I'll research it more and try to build a couple and see what happens I guess 
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- 02 1500 4x4, mp3
so you going with a fmu or are you getting a mpi tuner?
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- 02 1500 4x4, mp3
are you running a intank or inline fuel pump? or stock?
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- 02 1500 4x4, mp3
i think that be around 86psi. i think stock is 36 plus the 50 from the fmu. i run 8psi on the vortech. so far i am alright, but i do plan on getting a haltech or mpi by xmas time.
I don't know if it is a problem or not. But if you end up needing another pump I have an extra inline laying around that I could sell you for 30 bucks. I think it is Vortex or something like that.. can't remember off hand. I'd have to look around and see if I still have it and what the name on it is.
EDIT: I believe it is a Vortech T-Rex fuel pump. I think I know where it is in my garage, I can look for it tomorrow.
EDIT: I believe it is a Vortech T-Rex fuel pump. I think I know where it is in my garage, I can look for it tomorrow.
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