Is downpipe next logical step? Best bang for buck?

Marauder.45

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06 MS6
So I have the magnaflow catback, and the cp-e CAI already. (Also RPM springs and short throw shifter, but they aren't relevant in this discussion) My best run so far is 14.60, and I'm looking to get into the 13s. Nothing ridiculous.

Would the cp-e downpipe be the one of the bigger bang for the buck mods? I planned on adding that with a Cobb AP. I think with that and a tune I'd probably be getting happier.

I had planned on doing the Forge BPV, but after reading a thread yesterday it that doesn't seem a priority unless my OE one is busted. At least with the tuner I can always expand piece by piece. I usually think it's better to add a little at a time in case something sucks, that way you don't have to go back and figure which of the 5 new parts you put on just blows.

Are there any other options other than the downpipe for bang for buck?
 
EMS check, Cobb is on the list,

you think the TIP is going to do more than the whole downpipe? I'd rather have the cats anyway.



I'm not going to mess with the intercooler until I can go FMIC.
 
5-10 hp for 1/3rd the price at 165. plus a test pipe 10-20 hp for another 100. bolt ons that can easily be switched out for emissions and dealer visits.
 
theres also drivetrain and suspension upgrades that make your stock base hp realized and planted into the ground. a rear diff and engine mounts are guaranteed to quicken your track times.

i made a 13.8 with just a rear motor mount and cobb intake.
 
i made a 13.8 with just a rear motor mount and cobb intake.

That's what I was thinking about man...OP what's your 60 foot time/Reaction time...these cars run 14.0s stock. Do you have the DSC on or not know how to launch? (I'm not trying to bust on you or talk s*** at all, I just know what these cars are capable of)

Trust me, if this was a 15 second car stock, I wouldn't own one.
 
To the OP, do yourself a favor and pull the intake and turbo inlet pipe one afternoon just for s**** and giggles. Once you see how restrictive the stock turbo inlet is and you'll feel obligated to remedy it. :) Plus your CAI won't sound like it's choking for air anymore.

The test pipe was a noticable difference for me. My girlfriend says the car has a bit of a rumble to it now, a lower exhaust tone.


Another option that you could look at is reducing unsprung weight in the form of a lighter wheel+tire combo. Hell, if you can afford it, go for a smaller diameter wheel for the strip. The smaller outer diameter will also lower your overall gear ratio and you'll spool up a lot faster all while reducing the unsprung weight.
 
I could probably use some tips on how to launch this car for sure. 1.815 was my 60' on that pass, rt was .32. My last ride was a low 13s 03 Marauder. Which is a RWD auto. Put drags on, load the converter to 3200, watch for the last yellow light and GGGOOOOOOOOO. The biggest bang for the buck on that car was going from a stock converter to a 3500 stall converter. Got about .8 of a second for $600. Next was a 100 shot that got me about another .6 for $400.

Right now I'm bringing the rpms to about 3000 and working the clutch to put it down. Seems to hook pretty good.

I have about a $1200 budget for this next round of mods. I'm going to need a boost gauge, thinking dashhawk, and then everything else.
 
I could probably use some tips on how to launch this car for sure. 1.815 was my 60' on that pass, rt was .32. My last ride was a low 13s 03 Marauder. Which is a RWD auto. Put drags on, load the converter to 3200, watch for the last yellow light and GGGOOOOOOOOO. The biggest bang for the buck on that car was going from a stock converter to a 3500 stall converter. Got about .8 of a second for $600. Next was a 100 shot that got me about another .6 for $400.

Right now I'm bringing the rpms to about 3000 and working the clutch to put it down. Seems to hook pretty good.

I have about a $1200 budget for this next round of mods. I'm going to need a boost gauge, thinking dashhawk, and then everything else.

With a $1200 budget, look for a used Cobb AccessPort (can double as makeshift boost gauge). You can probably find one for around $550-600. That will really open things up and make any existing or future mods more effective.

With the remaining $600, my recommendation would be a different turbo inlet pipe ($175), rear engine mount ($120), rear differential mount ($300). You'll be putting a lot more power to the ground while still opening up the car to breath a little bit. You need to be careful about rear axels on this car at the strip though. I've read they have a tendency to succumb to the power of your right foot.
 

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