Is Detonation common with P5's?

Mr.Ames said:
I had the platinums before my long reach and i didnt notice much difference from stock. Apparently they have a slightly weaker spark (cuz they dont conduct as good as copper) but they're supposed to last longer. The iradiums (sp?) are supposed to be best of both worlds, but alot more expensive

They conduct electricity fine. It's the thermal properties where platinum has its short coming. After firing, the center electrode remains hotter with platinum plugs than with irridium or copper plugs. This can create a hot spot which can lead to pre-ignition. Although pre-ignition differs from detonation, it can lead to detonation and also has similar symptoms.

Regarding the seafoam question posed earlier: Personally, I think seafoam works great in cleaning out carbon build up in the intake tract. However, with a detonation issue, you may have carbon build up in the in the combustion chamber. To clean that out, I remove the plugs and pour ATF into the spark plug hole. I let it sit for awhile, then cover the holes with paper towels and turn the engine, either by hand or with the starter. Let it sit for a few hours then turn the engine for about 5 seconds with the starter (plugs still out), this allows the remaining fluid to exit through the spark plug hole or past the rings. Replace the spark plugs and fire up the car. Once the engine is warmed up, a bunch of white smoke will come out of the exhaust (even more than when using Seafoam). Keep it running until the smoke clears. After the smoke clears, change the oil and put in fresh plugs. I'll usually change the oil again in a week after doing this.

ATF is similar to motor oil but cannot withstand as much heat and has a hell of a lot more detergents in it. That's why it works so well in cleaning out the engine. When I first heard of the procedure, I thought it was BS. However, I did try it and was amazed with the results. You can also do the same with Seafoam. . . ATF is a little cheaper. Try at your own risk.
 
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GNO said:
They conduct electricity fine. It's the thermal properties where platinum has its short coming. After firing, the center electrode remains hotter with platinum plugs than with irridium or copper plugs. This can create a hot spot which can lead to pre-ignition. Although pre-ignition differs from detonation, it can lead to detonation and also has similar symptoms.

Regarding the seafoam question posed earlier: Personally, I think seafoam works great in cleaning out carbon build up in the intake tract. However, with a detonation issue, you may have carbon build up in the in the combustion chamber. To clean that out, I remove the plugs and pour ATF into the spark plug hole. I let it sit for awhile, then cover the holes with paper towels and turn the engine, either by hand or with the starter. Let it sit for a few hours then turn the engine for about 5 seconds with the starter (plugs still out), this allows the remaining fluid to exit through the spark plug hole or past the rings. Replace the spark plugs and fire up the car. Once the engine is warmed up, a bunch of white smoke will come out of the exhaust (even more than when using Seafoam). Keep it running until the smoke clears. After the smoke clears, change the oil and put in fresh plugs. I'll usually change the oil again in a week after doing this.

ATF is similar to motor oil but cannot withstand as much heat and has a hell of a lot more detergents in it. That's why it works so well in cleaning out the engine. When I first heard of the procedure, I thought it was BS. However, I did try it and was amazed with the results. You can also do the same with Seafoam. . . ATF is a little cheaper. Try at your own risk.

Hmmmm...I've never heard of this or for that matter tried it... All I usually do is use injector/fuel system cleaner and go for a nice, long (usually 7-8 hr), hard drive about once or twice a month. (naughty) There are quite a few nice lonely, windy roads around here where I can really push the car. The best part is that during the first leg and the last leg of the drive, I can run the car at a constant 3000-3500 RPM for about an hour each way. (headbang)

At 100,000 KM's the engine has minimal carbon deposits...now if I could just get the car to not run as rich...(stooges)
 
leica said:
I may just have to do this. Here in Florida it just gets too damn hot, and most cars will have detonation with 87. I just need to go to quality gas stations too......No more BP or Shell. Not many Chevrons around here though. :(


Shell is bad gas? Seriously I will avoid them in the future if it is.
 
i've never had a problem with shell... who knows, maybe its different down in florida than here in canada
 
DaleNixon said:
Shell is bad gas? Seriously I will avoid them in the future if it is.

Shell is a top tier gasoline retailer, its not bad. Im a Chevron man myself, Chevron has such a nice smell compared to other gasoline. It smells good going into the tank and the exhaust even has a different/better smell. Thats a silly reason for choosing it, but its the only retailer around here that has gas that is really noticably different than that of other retailers. heres a link to the top tier site http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

Im running the long reach plugs, one step colder, with 87 octane and have had zero problems here in hot/dry california. It might be different in hot/humid florida.
 
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Oh man I love me some good smellin' gasoline!

Shell likes to advertise that their higher octane gas actually cleans engine buildup. Any truth to that?
 
DaleNixon said:
Oh man I love me some good smellin' gasoline!

Shell likes to advertise that their higher octane gas actually cleans engine buildup. Any truth to that?

I dont know, Im kind of doubtful unless your deposits are severe or something. On the website i linked to earlier they never once mention actually CLEANING deposits. They just talk about the retailers having additives that DECREASE the buildup or whatever.
 
qualityrockola said:
Shell is a top tier gasoline retailer, its not bad. Im a Chevron man myself, Chevron has such a nice smell compared to other gasoline. It smells good going into the tank and the exhaust even has a different/better smell. Thats a silly reason for choosing it, but its the only retailer around here that has gas that is really noticably different than that of other retailers. heres a link to the top tier site http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

Im running the long reach plugs, one step colder, with 87 octane and have had zero problems here in hot/dry california. It might be different in hot/humid florida.
Colder heat range might do it for me, too. I'll wait until the plugs are ready to change, unless I get tired of paying an extra 8-10 cents/gal.
 
I has Ping! Ugh. So, as I'm in blazing hot socal, should I try colder plugs? What would be the part number for one step colder long reach nkg's? Or should I just try 89 octane?
 
i run 92 octane every fill up. never had any problem with this. however i think i need to buy spark plug wires soon. now and then i get random misfires
 
my p5 has pinged for as long as I can remember. lol I hate it! I use 91 octane, cold plugs. I keep the car in good shape and it still pings loudly.
the only time its quiet is when its cold outside. then its totally normal.
 
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still have the stock accordion tube after the MAF? check it for cracks causing lean condition. Mine was pinging, tube was replaced, no more pinging.
 
I has Ping! Ugh. So, as I'm in blazing hot socal, should I try colder plugs? What would be the part number for one step colder long reach nkg's? Or should I just try 89 octane?

blazin hot socal my ass dude. i just visited socal. both days it was sunny as s*** outside with a high of 75. it was literaly like it was sunny with ac. lol come stay in texas for a week.
 
yah. i guess we caught it at a good time. the desert was pretty hot. but its more of a dry heat.
 
in theory, isn't the knock sensor supposed to hear the pinging and back off the timing? or maybe it's either too slow to always respond or it can only retard it back a certain amount?
 
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