is anyone else getting crappy MPG?

well, here's how it worked out for me...... I drove non-stop at an average of 74-79 ("damn near 80") to Atlanta, GA from Columbus, OH. I only stopped for gas/food/restroom (about 3 times). Yes, the enigine was above 3000 rpm, BUT there was very little ACCELERATION. I had the cruise control on and was completely on the highway. When you accelerate, that's when you burn the most gas, thus city (stop-and-go) driving has less mpg. Driving at a constant speed over a long distance will give you better mileage. Of course, keeping the engine speed around 2000 rpm versus 3000 will burn less fuel but my absolute best mpg were when I entered Georgia driving at around 70 mph, so sorry if I gave misleading information.... however I still recieved around 29-30 mpg at 80 mph.... Oh yeah, I used to own a Mazdaspeed Protege and that beast kept getting worse mileage as time went on. I guess Mazda is a helluva lot more "hit-or-miss" than Toyota or Honda with their build quality.
 
dajiggalo said:
I guess Mazda is a helluva lot more "hit-or-miss" than Toyota or Honda with their build quality.

I understand your concern about the gas milage, but I must say that Mazda is not at the bottom of the quality ladder. Just do a www.google.com websearch with "Toyota engine sludge" as keywords. Mazda vehicles have imprefections, sure, but, as I researched, they are overall among the most dependable cars.

Although it is sick that the new Civics are getting close to 45 mpg on the high way (shocked)
 
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DrummerJim50 said:
not necessarily.....it's not as much of a linear relationship as you're trying to make it.
Say....3000 to 3500 rpm is an increase of 15% in rpm, but will likely be a 30% increase in fuel consumption.
Similarly, if you're at 2000 rpm and then redline the car at 6000 rpm, you'd likely be burning 10X the amount of fuel even though you've only increased the rpm by 3X.

This especially holds true considering the vvt (variable valve timing) on the 2.3. I am not sure were it starts to kick in, I'm guessing about upper 3,000 to 4,000, but I did the same drive I mentioned below, going out to Phoenix, at 90 MPH and I only got 22-23 mpg. I was above 4,000 rpm.

I guess all things considered from everybody's comments, my gas mileage is just about right. Still, I was expecting a little more.
 
dont wanna jinx myself here, but for this tank im on, i have been doing 2 things differnt.,

Only letting the car warm for 1 minute, and from first to second, im shifting towards 4k rather than 3k. Now right now it SEEMS like I will be able to hit maybe 28 mpg. Im at 210 miles driven and its right about halfway between the E mark and halfway mark.

But its werid. Sometimes I will only drive 25 miles and I will notice a substantil dip in the needle, other times I can drive 60 miles and barely notice and change in the needle.

Maybe it just cause its a little warmer this week 30's rather than teens and thats why im doing better. Cause im baffled at how shifting at 4k will yield better gas consumption than shifting at 3k. From first to second only. 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 i am stil shifting around 3.
 
with a majority of freeway driving..... (150 miles or so a day) and i drive around 80-85 mph and lately i have been getting 25ish mpg........w/o cc
 
Spending even 10 minutes warming up your car is going to put a hit on your gas milage. Also, if you put on snow tires, that will make a significant difference. Be carefull with the defroster, on the P5 it turns the A/C on so I'm guessing it does the same on the Mazda3. Once your windshield is clear of fog/ice you should change it to floor or vents. Do not change the type of gas you use, ever. Unless you install a turbo your car should always take 87 octane.
 
chuyler1 said:
Unless you install a turbo your car should always take 87 octane.

Could you please explain why that is? I mean, it makes sense, since our cars don't require premium, but I filled up with 93 octane today, and the engine is a lot quieter and revs smoother.

What are the effects of switching between grades?

Thanks
 
mobomelter said:
do a search on google. i know a partial answer but i'm sure there is a website that explains it fully.

something to do with the engine doesnt completely burn the higher ocatane fuel, which leaves crap in your engine.

Kinda like smoking. Smoking 1 or 2 isnt gonna hurt you. But the more you smoke, the more tar builds up in your lungs.
 
iv been using 89 octane latley and my car stopped pinging. so i would thing 89 is actually needed for me, also it seems more responsive and i have got better millege.

also v-power claims it cleans your engine as you drive so wouldnt that cancel out the excess octane? lol i tried
 
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The P5 gas gauge seems to be weighted so it eats through the first half of the tank faster than the second half.



nappyjim said:
dont wanna jinx myself here, but for this tank im on, i have been doing 2 things differnt.,

Only letting the car warm for 1 minute, and from first to second, im shifting towards 4k rather than 3k. Now right now it SEEMS like I will be able to hit maybe 28 mpg. Im at 210 miles driven and its right about halfway between the E mark and halfway mark.

But its werid. Sometimes I will only drive 25 miles and I will notice a substantil dip in the needle, other times I can drive 60 miles and barely notice and change in the needle.

Maybe it just cause its a little warmer this week 30's rather than teens and thats why im doing better. Cause im baffled at how shifting at 4k will yield better gas consumption than shifting at 3k. From first to second only. 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 i am stil shifting around 3.
 
Greenbread said:
iv been using 89 octane latley and my car stopped pinging. so i would thing 89 is actually needed for me, also it seems more responsive and i have got better millege.

also v-power claims it cleans your engine as you drive so wouldnt that cancel out the excess octane? lol i tried
I think altitude can make a difference on a car engine - compression and pressure in the cylinders - so for some, 89 may work better (plus mazda quality could be spotty at times). Other than that, the octane rating basically refers to the temperature at which the gas burns (again, which is effected by compression and pressure).

Gas companies want you to think their "premium" gas is better.....it's not necessarily better, just a different mixture that burns hotter and costs a little more.
 
If you are baking a cake and the instructions ask for 2 eggs, you put in two eggs, not three. If your car's manufacturer says to put in 87 octane, you put in 87 octane, not 93. What's so difficult about that? There are a number of different factors that make a difference and if Mazda tunes your engine to run on 87 why go and put 89 or 93 in it? You may 'think' you're getting better performance or a smoother ride but ricers also think that a wing and ground effects kit makes their car faster. Its a figment of your imagination. Save your pennies and buy 87 unless your car's manual states otherwise.
 
chuyler1 said:
You may 'think' you're getting better performance or a smoother ride but ricers also think that a wing and ground effects kit makes their car faster.

nicely put. honestly i don't know why you'd want to spend more for 2 octane points....
 
what is that in miles? i constantly get 25 mpg but i do alot of city driving since i deliver pizza. and i like to redline alot at work.
 
I was getting 29-31mpg before I put my snows on. That is with a good deal of back road driving (35-50mph) and some highway driving (65-75mph).
 
Tire pressure and wheel alignment can have a drastic effect on mileage as well.

I have just over 3600 miles on my 04 3s, and i get 290-305 miles per tank, even as low as 275-280. I do mainly freewau driving, but s***, all the freeways here at rushour are stop and go anway.

Compare that to my 15 year old Protege LX that has never had the engine cracked open, at 320-350 with all kinds of mods...

My first dealer filled tank got me around 355-360...never seen that since!!
 
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I get s*** milage in the winter in my MSP. Here are the points I know about Winter Mialage. These seem to be accurate and my dealership backs these as valid reasons.


Oil is cold, Engine has to work harder to move pistons etc.. I have an engine block heater and it helps on those really cold morning. The oil is all warmmed up and ready to flow! No warm up time unless you want the heater ready to keep you warm.

Also Winter Gas formulas are mixed differently. In the winter It is crappiest from Dec to March. (I can run Mid grade in summer when its hot but it has to be premium in the winter.)

Check your Tire Air pressure. Cold and warm snaps can cause your tires to be low. Defrost for foggy windows runs your A/C, Even If your A/C light is not on. Running the fans, rear defrost, etc make the altanator work harder.

The Air comming into the car can be too cold. I have a CIA but if the air is too cold it can be bad.

A ten minute Warm up would not significantly harm your mpg but can add up a little if done every morning.
 
I live in Montreal and we got freezing weather in January, not so cold so far for February. I never heat up the engine, i just start, buckle up and go. Of course, if temp is below -20c (brrrr!!!) i let the engine run until the RPM comes down to about 1500, wich takes a minute or so. Then i just drive off gently and warm the engine as i drive. Don't have a block heater and always park my car in the steet. I usually shift around 3000rpm and don't use 4th and 5th gear for city driving. Gas up with regular 87 octane.

Here is my gas mileage for the past month driving my 4 door GS 2.0L.

1800km (1116miles) used up 164 litres of fuel... no clue as to how many gallons this translates into...sorry!

But this gave me about 9L/100km or about 31mpg.... mixed city/hway winter driving.

For summer/automn driving, i got about 8.5L/100km or 33mpg out of mixed normal/spirited driving.

Best mileage was as trip from Montreal to Gatineau ... 6.2L/100 or 45mpg on cruise control going 90-100km/h (55-60mph)

I am happy with the mileage i get. I get better numbers than i was expecting.
 
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