Is anyone else disappointed in their car? (Long story)

So basically its a deal where if you wanna go intake and tbe.. Find and ems and hope it works out as best as you can and try and reinforce it??
minor mods are usually fine. mazda usually tunes the cars rich to begin with. it's when you start wanting to make real power and/or want your car not to be pig rich that you start running into problems. older cars used to use extra injectors in the intake pipe or fuel pressure regulators to get around it so the ECU didn't really control the extra fuel going in. i think there are some piggyback solutions for the MS3 that have had some success but aren't foolproof like they should be.
 
It's 2009...

rattles in $23,000 cars with 500 miles on them is absolute horseshit.

my 98 civic and 02 jetta didnt have this many rattles.

that being said, neither of them were near as quick as the mazda.

opportunity cost can suck both my balls :(
 
minor mods are usually fine. mazda usually tunes the cars rich to begin with. it's when you start wanting to make real power and/or want your car not to be pig rich that you start running into problems. older cars used to use extra injectors in the intake pipe or fuel pressure regulators to get around it so the ECU didn't really control the extra fuel going in. i think there are some piggyback solutions for the MS3 that have had some success but aren't foolproof like they should be.

So your opinion.. Right now when I get it.. I'm lookin at intake and a tbe.. And I'll probly go with a cobb ap.. Maybe I'll do more stuff. But bolt on wise I feel I'll be pretty happy with that.. I'm not lookin to race.. Altho I would like to hit atleast 300whp.. Am i lookin at alot of boost issues?? I mean eventuuuaallly I might turbo upgrade. But I'm not considering that anytime soon.
 
So your opinion.. Right now when I get it.. I'm lookin at intake and a tbe.. And I'll probly go with a cobb ap.. Maybe I'll do more stuff. But bolt on wise I feel I'll be pretty happy with that.. I'm not lookin to race.. Altho I would like to hit atleast 300whp.. Am i lookin at alot of boost issues?? I mean eventuuuaallly I might turbo upgrade. But I'm not considering that anytime soon.
honestly i haven't really followed the MS3 specifically that much. just bits and pieces here and there. enough to know that they are facing similar issues to the protege owners of years past and the MX6/probe gt owners before them. so i would guess you'll probably be fine but you probably want to do ask someone who really knows
 
honestly i haven't really followed the MS3 specifically that much. just bits and pieces here and there. enough to know that they are facing similar issues to the protege owners of years past and the MX6/probe gt owners before them. so i would guess you'll probably be fine but you probably want to do ask someone who really knows

Yaa lol. Thought you woulda known. I mean I learned plenty on modding turbo cars and the basics.. Like I know you HAVE to use atleast an ap on ANY performance/hp based mod ie; intake, exhaust.. Just because the ecu won't be able to properly read it with the proper boost and will cause issues. I'm readin about alot of people on here modding and not having any ems and having issues.. So i mean I guess as long as I throw atleast an ap ill be fine for starters. Just by going on the basics of modding turbo'd cars..
 
Yaa lol. Thought you woulda known. I mean I learned plenty on modding turbo cars and the basics.. Like I know you HAVE to use atleast an ap on ANY performance/hp based mod ie; intake, exhaust.. Just because the ecu won't be able to properly read it with the proper boost and will cause issues. I'm readin about alot of people on here modding and not having any ems and having issues.. So i mean I guess as long as I throw atleast an ap ill be fine for starters. Just by going on the basics of modding turbo'd cars..

Depends on the car and the ECU. Our mazdaspeeds adapt relatively well to mods so tuning isn't always mandatory at first. EVO's and many other cars require a more active tuning approach.
 
It's 2009...

rattles in $23,000 cars with 500 miles on them is absolute horseshit.

my 98 civic and 02 jetta didnt have this many rattles.

that being said, neither of them were near as quick as the mazda.

opportunity cost can suck both my balls :(

Do you really have 500miles and all those mods?

Having a stiff rear mount and complaining about rattles is really justified... when I had the stock mount the car was silent. So now with the rear mount and I hear rattles I either try to fix them or just put it off as it comes with the territory.
 
Depends on the car and the ECU. Our mazdaspeeds adapt relatively well to mods so tuning isn't always mandatory at first. EVO's and many other cars require a more active tuning approach.

Really?? Hmmmm.. So a basic battery pull may necessarily be all you need?? I was always taught with my minimal tuning learning to always tune after mods lol.. But thats why I'm on here. To learn the ins and outs so I'm in a bit of a knowledged situation.. Thank man..
 
I originally just had a boost controller and tried setting it for just under the normal boost cut/fuel cut/whatever range. This worked ok, but I could never get any consistency from day to day. On my turbo Hondas I would set the controller for 15 psi and it would stay there no matter what.

MBC's are very well known for being inconsistent. That's not just a Mazda thing. The principles which the controller works under are affected by weather, temperature, as well as a litany of other surrounding conditions.

So I added a Boost Cut Defender, but didn't have much luck with that. Saw AFRs that were just way too rich (like 9 or less). Safe, but all that extra gas was just choking out any extra power that could be made by running more boost.

The BCD was a quick fix that, even at the time they were "in the market", were a lazy man's solution for a map clamp.

The car runs rich. It just happens. The ECU will not allow it to be lean in the stock tune. There is a car that ran 10's at WOT with a GT40. If you don't want to run rich, you need to tune it.

I then added a downpipe and midpipe (both catless) BPV, and an intake. Then I started seeing the boost go above safe levels even on the stock tune (spiking past 20). I also noticed my fuel pressures were dangerously low, and was constantly getting KR.

Running catless is well known causing boost creep. This is nothing new. I don't understand what you mean by "dangerously low" fuel levels... until the point you get cut there's really no threshold...

Knock sucks on these cars- you just have to monitor and respect it.


I forked over the $600 for a Cobb AP, and had zero luck with that. I was using the OTS maps (v 1.02 and later 1.03 when they were released), but was still getting way more KR and boost than I felt was safe. Spiking and holding past 19-20 when the target was 17-18, still getting fuel/boost cut...still seeing low fuel pressures.

No one has ever really brought the Accessport into question- it sucked when it came out. The ability to tune it has made it a more worthwhile product... but there are simply too many small issues that happen on an individual basis to think that an ots tune is going to solve all your problems.

So I upgraded the fuel pump (that worked just fine...fixed the low pressures) and sold the AP. Back to the stock boost/tune. Got bored really fast. I switched back to the MBC route and went with a MAP clamp this time. That actually worked for a while, but still was seeing loads of KR in the higher gears, low AFRs (expected), stuttering, inconsistent boost, and generally running like s***.

Well, what do you expect? By selling the AP and going back to simply running MBC/MAP you essentially took a large step backwards in the developments people have made with tuning this car.

I just recently took the MAP clamp, BPV and MBC off and am back to stock again. I'm having issues with the boost going all over the place, but I'm pretty sure that is just the ECU trying to recalibrate itself. If it doesn't, I'm just going to take the intake and exhaust off and go back to 100% stock

Again, if you are still catless, the boost is going to move around.

So anyway, long story...but anyone else disappointed in how difficult it is to modify this car and have it run right? What is up with all the overboosting, Knock Retard, low fuel pressures, gear-limited boost, throttle body that won't open all the way, etc?

- You are overboosting because you're running catless without a tune or any kind of wastegate modification

- Knock is the result of a few things which have been discussed in great detail.
- Partial throttle knock largely is the result of the ECU running stoich in boost
- Low load knock is the engine pulling timing via the sensor
- The knock sensor is a harmonic device, and certain sounds resonating in the bay can lead to knock
- The engine just plain knocks once in a while- the car runs rich as s***, it's going to happen

- Low fuel pressure have been completely resolved with a 200-some dollar mod- it's a DI thing, not a Mazda thing. Check out the vag guys.

- Gear limited boost can be completely removed- no one does it beacuse it's retarded to try and handle 16PSI in first gear on a daily basis... not to mention why would you want to beat on your trans like that?

- Throttle body opening can be done via the tune too... many people do it with good results when they switch over to larger turbos.

It just seems like you are frustrated with many of the issues that have arisen while working with a new platform... and I don't blame you. This community has sucked- but it is making advancements. There are guys running 300-330HP daily with meth and tunes... not to mention one recently hitting 433HP on n2o. It's just the challenges you face when trying to work in a niche market without the support of larger companies like Evo's, STI's, and SRT's get.

If it's not thing for you, then it isn't... but it seems like you're largely just caught up on issues that are now the past.

You're not alone with the frustration, but this is just kinda what you face when taking on a new platform.

Best of luck.
 
MBC's are very well known for being inconsistent. That's not just a Mazda thing. The principles which the controller works under are affected by weather, temperature, as well as a litany of other surrounding conditions.



The BCD was a quick fix that, even at the time they were "in the market", were a lazy man's solution for a map clamp.

The car runs rich. It just happens. The ECU will not allow it to be lean in the stock tune. There is a car that ran 10's at WOT with a GT40. If you don't want to run rich, you need to tune it.



Running catless is well known causing boost creep. This is nothing new. I don't understand what you mean by "dangerously low" fuel levels... until the point you get cut there's really no threshold...

Knock sucks on these cars- you just have to monitor and respect it.




No one has ever really brought the Accessport into question- it sucked when it came out. The ability to tune it has made it a more worthwhile product... but there are simply too many small issues that happen on an individual basis to think that an ots tune is going to solve all your problems.



Well, what do you expect? By selling the AP and going back to simply running MBC/MAP you essentially took a large step backwards in the developments people have made with tuning this car.



Again, if you are still catless, the boost is going to move around.



- You are overboosting because you're running catless without a tune or any kind of wastegate modification

- Knock is the result of a few things which have been discussed in great detail.
- Partial throttle knock largely is the result of the ECU running stoich in boost
- Low load knock is the engine pulling timing via the sensor
- The knock sensor is a harmonic device, and certain sounds resonating in the bay can lead to knock
- The engine just plain knocks once in a while- the car runs rich as s***, it's going to happen

- Low fuel pressure have been completely resolved with a 200-some dollar mod- it's a DI thing, not a Mazda thing. Check out the vag guys.

- Gear limited boost can be completely removed- no one does it beacuse it's retarded to try and handle 16PSI in first gear on a daily basis... not to mention why would you want to beat on your trans like that?

- Throttle body opening can be done via the tune too... many people do it with good results when they switch over to larger turbos.

It just seems like you are frustrated with many of the issues that have arisen while working with a new platform... and I don't blame you. This community has sucked- but it is making advancements. There are guys running 300-330HP daily with meth and tunes... not to mention one recently hitting 433HP on n2o. It's just the challenges you face when trying to work in a niche market without the support of larger companies like Evo's, STI's, and SRT's get.

If it's not thing for you, then it isn't... but it seems like you're largely just caught up on issues that are now the past.

You're not alone with the frustration, but this is just kinda what you face when taking on a new platform.

Best of luck.

+1...dont have the patients to spell it all out...lol

as doc said, this is an entirely new platform for both mazda and the aftermarket. subies and evos have been around for a helluva long time and their bugs have been worked out. be patient, in time so will ours (thumb)
 
MBC's are very well known for being inconsistent. That's not just a Mazda thing. The principles which the controller works under are affected by weather, temperature, as well as a litany of other surrounding conditions.



The BCD was a quick fix that, even at the time they were "in the market", were a lazy man's solution for a map clamp.

The car runs rich. It just happens. The ECU will not allow it to be lean in the stock tune. There is a car that ran 10's at WOT with a GT40. If you don't want to run rich, you need to tune it.



Running catless is well known causing boost creep. This is nothing new. I don't understand what you mean by "dangerously low" fuel levels... until the point you get cut there's really no threshold...

Knock sucks on these cars- you just have to monitor and respect it.




No one has ever really brought the Accessport into question- it sucked when it came out. The ability to tune it has made it a more worthwhile product... but there are simply too many small issues that happen on an individual basis to think that an ots tune is going to solve all your problems.



Well, what do you expect? By selling the AP and going back to simply running MBC/MAP you essentially took a large step backwards in the developments people have made with tuning this car.



Again, if you are still catless, the boost is going to move around.



- You are overboosting because you're running catless without a tune or any kind of wastegate modification

- Knock is the result of a few things which have been discussed in great detail.
- Partial throttle knock largely is the result of the ECU running stoich in boost
- Low load knock is the engine pulling timing via the sensor
- The knock sensor is a harmonic device, and certain sounds resonating in the bay can lead to knock
- The engine just plain knocks once in a while- the car runs rich as s***, it's going to happen

- Low fuel pressure have been completely resolved with a 200-some dollar mod- it's a DI thing, not a Mazda thing. Check out the vag guys.

- Gear limited boost can be completely removed- no one does it beacuse it's retarded to try and handle 16PSI in first gear on a daily basis... not to mention why would you want to beat on your trans like that?

- Throttle body opening can be done via the tune too... many people do it with good results when they switch over to larger turbos.

It just seems like you are frustrated with many of the issues that have arisen while working with a new platform... and I don't blame you. This community has sucked- but it is making advancements. There are guys running 300-330HP daily with meth and tunes... not to mention one recently hitting 433HP on n2o. It's just the challenges you face when trying to work in a niche market without the support of larger companies like Evo's, STI's, and SRT's get.

If it's not thing for you, then it isn't... but it seems like you're largely just caught up on issues that are now the past.

You're not alone with the frustration, but this is just kinda what you face when taking on a new platform.

Best of luck.


This is almost like a great writeup.. I like everything you said here and it all makes sense.. If I getwhat your saying.. Part of it is that the tune is everything and I'm 100% behind that. If not I'm sorry for talking stupid lol.
 
I dunno y everyone has problems...I very rarely go WOT with my car when I do I'm logging in order to make a better tune with ATR. I've really only broke the surface with mods but have pretty big plans in the near future as far as turbo meth inj plus nitrous and built engine... As far as I see it if you are not ready to really get into tuning this car you shouldn't be adding more mods and trying to up boost. If u want to build a race car u definitly should not be daily driving it. Just my 2 cents
 
I'm with Hank, my last 4 wheel toy I had for 13 years. It was a 5.0 that I had modified to accept all forms of power adder at different times + everything else that could be done to the car. It was a great platform for that stuff but, the last few years were spent less enjoying the car and more just making sure all the unique doo-dads I added were kept up and running. I just got sick of dicking around with it all the time.

I bought the MS3 because it hit my performance bug pretty well right out of the box and put a grin on my face every time I drove it. I wanted a DD that put a smile on my face no matter what part of the performance envelope I was dipping into. It ain't as straight line fast as my 5.0 but in every respect it's a better car and it ain't 21 years old either. I haven't had any creaks and groans myself with the car, couple intermittent rattles I'll find and tie down but nothing consistent.

I've done a few things to improve my enjoyment, Epoxy RMM, CAI, TIP, BPV and CS downpipe into the stock cat2. The car is quicker and easier to drive for all of them. It isn't a Bugatti Veyron or anything but, it's pretty snappy now and, I ain't greedy.

If anything, next I'll correct the stock bad shock damping but, that's about as far as I'll go with it.

On my latest trip into the country I tail rode an E46 M3 for 30 miles through twisting country roads, just to piss the M-twat off. He had no fricking idea what hit him. He tried every crazy-ass maneuver he could think of but couldn't lose the stupid Mazda hatchback. It was a great moment in MS3 ownership to see the gob-smacked look on that guys face when he pulled over at last.
 
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If it's not thing for you, then it isn't... but it seems like you're largely just caught up on issues that are now the past.

Along with everything else you said, I believe you're 100% correct. When I started modding there wasn't a whole lot offered. The AP was relatively new (people were still running the v1.01 maps), as was the standback. I was kind of hoping things had progressed while I struggled...sounds like that might be the case. i'll have to start doing my research again and seeing what is and what is not working for people.
 
Do you really have 500miles and all those mods?

Having a stiff rear mount and complaining about rattles is really justified... when I had the stock mount the car was silent. So now with the rear mount and I hear rattles I either try to fix them or just put it off as it comes with the territory.

I am nearing 10k miles now. but the rattle was there at 500 miles completely stock.

I didnt get the motor mount til 3 weeks ago.
 
I have the 2008 Model inwhich I took in to the dealer for an oil change. Checked out the 2010 models... with the exception of the scoop on the hood, the front is UGLY! I like the curve improvements on the sides and trunk, but that FRONT! Yesh!
The dashboard is sloped in design and the wood trim and Steering wheel improved button controls are cool.
 
sorry, but these new mazdas aren't very mod friendly at all... they're very tightly emission controlled which means lots of extra parts under the hood, complex electrical system, and restrictive ECU... IMO, these cars are best left to bolt-ons.... they're perfectly enjoyable mostly stock anyway :)

if you want an easier to mod car, something older like the MSM or MSP are better choices


there are TSBs for the seat belt noise issue, the cowl panel noise issue, etc... I still won't ever change my informed opinion that any 3 needs a strut bar to truely cure the cowl panel noise issues... the noise occurs because of minor chassis flex and mazda admitted to it! just a look at the cowl panel design itself once all the plastic and wipers are gone reveals its not as strong of design as everyone says it is
 
sorry, but these new mazdas aren't very mod friendly at all... they're very tightly emission controlled which means lots of extra parts under the hood, complex electrical system, and restrictive ECU... IMO, these cars are best left to bolt-ons.... they're perfectly enjoyable mostly stock anyway :)

if you want an easier to mod car, something older like the MSM or MSP are better choices


there are TSBs for the seat belt noise issue, the cowl panel noise issue, etc... I still won't ever change my informed opinion that any 3 needs a strut bar to truely cure the cowl panel noise issues... the noise occurs because of minor chassis flex and mazda admitted to it! just a look at the cowl panel design itself once all the plastic and wipers are gone reveals its not as strong of design as everyone says it is


I thought the new ms3 engine/ performance wise is identical part wise?? how could they add extra parts?? And wouldn't tuning crack threw all the restrictions of emissions?? Thats how it works with other cars..
 
I didn't read through everyones' posts, but seemed like a lot of people were saying similar things on the first page, namely that it's not a good modding platform, and that it's a relatively agreeable car in stock form.

I have definitely been disappointed with my attempts at modding, although they haven't been nearly as extensive as yours. I started with some wheels/tires and wrecked the ride, MT-90 that made the LSD howl, expensive speakers that didn't do a damn thing for the lousy stereo, a rear mount that shook the car and made awful noises... I think that's all, could be more. Almost everything I've tried has failed horribly. Add to that the harsh ride on Michigan roads, the suicide clutch that pisses both me and my gf off on a daily basis, and the numerous rattles you mentioned, and yes, you could say I was disappointed with the car.

I have found a couple mods that I like: Cobb SRI, Cobb shifter, and TRW shifter bushings. Related mods I have are lightened shifter weight and Redline leather boots. With these, the car is finally growing on me after 20k+ miles. The ride is better on stock wheels, I'm getting used to/resigning myself to the clutch, I don't mind the LSD howl, and I fixed the windshield and seatbelt rattles (still have to live with the glovebox and random trim bits).

I do very well in the stock class in local autox this way, and the car is more driveable day-to-day, so I'm relatively pleased. I no longer have any interest in increasing power, and probably the only other things I'll do in the future are try to fix the stereo, experiment with dampers & tires, and continue fixing rattles.

I also bought a cheap, carb'd motorcycle (2000 SV650). It is a whole new challenge, fast, and easy to work on/mod. I'm hoping it will satisfy the modding urge. I have two friends that ride SV's and both have turbo'd Miatas that they autocross, and they both prefer modding and riding the SV's to modding and driving the cars. Food for thought. :)

edit: I also think that all modern cars are becoming hopeless for modding. As TheMan said, they are extremely complex. (unimaginably complex, actually, if you learn about how they're built/calibrated.) The OEMs are eeking out all the power/efficencies they can, and just not leaving as much on the table.
 
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