jungleradio
Member
- :
- MS3 CB
What's needed for this? Jack stands, torque wrench....what else? What should i watch for? Do I need to support the engine or is it okay sitting on the mounts? TIA
-JR
-JR
Installing rear motor mount
- Thread starter jungleradio
- Start date
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
i used a little loctite on the bolts before putting them back on to be sure there wasn't going to be any funny business. other than that, same as Fritch mentioned.
jungleradio
Member
- :
- MS3 CB
sounds easy. so no need to support the engine?
and, by the way, what are some of brands which some can recommend? thanks again guys
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
there's no need to support the engine. if you're installing the corksport inserts, you will need to remove a few more bolts to make room for the modified mount because the inserts make the stock mount extra thick, which makes shoving it back in a pain in the arse.
the easy way around the difficult squeeze when putting the mount back in is to unbolt the mount that the rear mount is attached to. this mount is the one that is bolted to the rear mount using that horizontal bolt. it is held in place by 3 bolts, and all you have to do is unbolt 2 of these 3 bolts and loosen the 3rd so that you can swing this around. after you do this, it's easy as pie to fit the mount back in...
here's a picture of the extra bolts you will have to remove (compliments of KaiserSoze from the other forums):
please note: the front of the car in this pic is to the right.
lastly, you may want to consider greasing up the portions where the corksport inserts touch the rubber bushings to avoid the possible squeaking sounds that some people have complained about after having their inserts in for a while. i cannot guarantee that this will get rid of it, but it makes sense that a little grease in there won't hurt anything regardless...=d
the easy way around the difficult squeeze when putting the mount back in is to unbolt the mount that the rear mount is attached to. this mount is the one that is bolted to the rear mount using that horizontal bolt. it is held in place by 3 bolts, and all you have to do is unbolt 2 of these 3 bolts and loosen the 3rd so that you can swing this around. after you do this, it's easy as pie to fit the mount back in...
here's a picture of the extra bolts you will have to remove (compliments of KaiserSoze from the other forums):
please note: the front of the car in this pic is to the right.
lastly, you may want to consider greasing up the portions where the corksport inserts touch the rubber bushings to avoid the possible squeaking sounds that some people have complained about after having their inserts in for a while. i cannot guarantee that this will get rid of it, but it makes sense that a little grease in there won't hurt anything regardless...=d
subparpunk03
Member
Oh also, you're supposed to tighten down the extra bolts mentioned by sacrilicious above FIRST, and THEN tighten down the bolts in the mount. Torque specs are something like 70 ft-lbs for everything. You don't need a buddy to help, just undo 5 bolts, remove mount, put in new stuff, tighten bolts back down, and voila, new mount installed.
jungleradio
Member
- :
- MS3 CB
how is that delrin mount?
i was looking at the relatively more-flashy "Street-unit" mount:
any reviews? thanks
mrlilguy157
Member
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- 07 mazdaspeed 3
more flashy? no one ever sees the engine mount. ive got the TRZ delrin mount on order.
jungleradio
Member
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- MS3 CB
yeah, flashy. it was a tongue-in-cheek remark.
subparpunk03
Member
I <3 the delrin mount. I think the delrin is actually the stiffest mount available, which is what I wanted. Is it vibration free? No. Does it do what it was designed for? Damn skippy. If you want something with no vibration increase, get the corksports, if you want something thats going to really stiffen things up, get the delrin. If you want something in between.... then I'm not sure b/c I've only felt the stock, CS and delrin mounts.
Sacrilicious
boom boom!
- :
- Cosmic Blue MS3 of hawtness!
+1
that's the reason i wanted to get the corksports: i didn't want any noticeable extra vibrations. the stiffer the mount, the smoother your shifts will likely feel, but this will obviously put more stress on the other 3 mounts and any part experiencing more vibrations through the chassis. i chose the corksports because it would cause the least overall strain to the system while still giving some of the benefits of a stiffer engine mount. it's definitely a "half-ass" compromise, but i'm not quite ready to dive right in...
after 500-1000 mile break-in, the trz poly has very very minimal vibration compared to stock. In fact, I'll argue that theres less vibration overall as compared to stock. Slight increase at idle with a/c on, but the key is that the shifts are much much smoother both in the gates and the view from the passenger seat (not as jerky)
Just for the passenger seat difference, I'll trade a slight increase in vibs at idle -- makes it feel like the car is pushing the power, and shows the passenger that you can shift like a pro
Just for the passenger seat difference, I'll trade a slight increase in vibs at idle -- makes it feel like the car is pushing the power, and shows the passenger that you can shift like a pro
jungleradio
Member
- :
- MS3 CB
after 500-1000 mile break-in, the trz poly has very very minimal vibration compared to stock. In fact, I'll argue that theres less vibration overall as compared to stock. Slight increase at idle with a/c on, but the key is that the shifts are much much smoother both in the gates and the view from the passenger seat (not as jerky)
Just for the passenger seat difference, I'll trade a slight increase in vibs at idle -- makes it feel like the car is pushing the power, and shows the passenger that you can shift like a pro
sounds good. i have the delrin poly and TWM SS coming my way. i ordered both today. that'll add to the cobb sri i have too. this car is by far the most fun and least expensive car to tune.
jungleradio
Member
- :
- MS3 CB
audi's and vw's
subparpunk03
Member
My last car (2zz toyota), it was hard to eek out an extra 20 hp from the car, and on this beautiful ms3 you can squeeze that out with nothing more than an intercooler or exhaust upgrade or something. So a $500 intercooler upgrade to get close to 300 ft-lbs at the wheels, versus a 2zz that with $1000 of upgrades wouldn't get quite to half that much torque?
Sounds like the ms3 is cheaper to tune to me. Thats why I bought this thing, the XRS cost me about 18000, if I pumped 5k into it, it STILL wouldn't be as fast as the ms3, and FAR less nice, so I just bought a speed3. I could have spent WAY more on my toyota but the speed3 is cheaper and easier to make faster.
No clue about hondas though, I hear that K20 can be a MONSTER, maybe its cheap to tune, I just don't know. I'm sure tuning Audis and VWs can get expensive too, although theres WAY more of those GTIs out there than there are speed3s.
All I know is that my experience with this car has been far better than with my XRS.
Sounds like the ms3 is cheaper to tune to me. Thats why I bought this thing, the XRS cost me about 18000, if I pumped 5k into it, it STILL wouldn't be as fast as the ms3, and FAR less nice, so I just bought a speed3. I could have spent WAY more on my toyota but the speed3 is cheaper and easier to make faster.
No clue about hondas though, I hear that K20 can be a MONSTER, maybe its cheap to tune, I just don't know. I'm sure tuning Audis and VWs can get expensive too, although theres WAY more of those GTIs out there than there are speed3s.
All I know is that my experience with this car has been far better than with my XRS.
