installing a oil pressure guage on my msp?
- Thread starter DiscreetSpeed
- Start date
- :
- MP5T / 944
beavis said:
There are two things that look like that. It's the one with a green wire and a white plug.
- :
- MP5T / 944
TurboMan said:
Remove the old one, install a "T" fitting in the hole and put the stock one on one side and the new one on the other. This is also a way to get oil to a turbo.
DiscreetSpeed
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
i just used the stock sensor....
disconnected the wire and plugged in the gauge wire.
i was thinking of putting both of them on there(wires) to see if both would work? oh well
disconnected the wire and plugged in the gauge wire.
i was thinking of putting both of them on there(wires) to see if both would work? oh well
BremertonMSP
Member
- :
- 95 F-150 4x4, 89 Mustang Turbo Coupe, 87 Thunderbird Turbocoupe
DiscreetSpeed said:
I was thinking of doing the same thing. What does your oil pressure read with the stock sending unit? I think hooking up both wires to the same sender would work since voltage in parallel is equal.
DiscreetSpeed
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
umm i dont remember i think at idle its like 25....ill see and get back. i know in the mornings when i first turn it on its like 75.
Re: Re: installing a oil pressure guage on my msp?
i have a old silicone fittin from my IC, i just slip that over the filter and it grips it real nice.. even when shes nice an snug it comes off without to much cursing.. I learned the hardway not to over tighten the filter (hand)
SOSPEED said:
i have a old silicone fittin from my IC, i just slip that over the filter and it grips it real nice.. even when shes nice an snug it comes off without to much cursing.. I learned the hardway not to over tighten the filter (hand)
DiscreetSpeed
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
i suppose you can use that there little space there.
but the one thats being used is a no s*** T design.
remember its BPT FITTINGS AND NOT NPT FITTINGS.
but the one thats being used is a no s*** T design.
remember its BPT FITTINGS AND NOT NPT FITTINGS.
To whoever was thinking of running 2 wires from the stock sending unit....
The stock 'sending unit' is an on/off 12V trigger. If there is less than something like 7.5psi, it turns on the oil light in the dash. It does not have the capability to send fluctuating readings.
I don't understand why anyone would put a Tee in this location. It's such a pain to get to in the first place... it's difficult to do one connection much less 3!... VDO (and I would think autometer) makes a 0-80 psi sending unit with a low level warning contact. Affix the stock wire to the warning contact and the signal wire contact to the gauge. That's it.
I had the threads on the sending unit recut by the place I buy this stuff from, www.nhspeedometer.com. They're fairly easy to work with. If you have a die-cut set, you can do it yourself. The adapter works, too.
I use RTV sensor-safe silicon on the threads despite what anyone else says about tapered threads. (which is what sending units generally have) I've replaced enough senders to know it works better than not. Also, if it's your first time doing this kind of thing, having to deal with a leak and trying to tighten this thing in its location is a real b****. This makes the oil filter look super easy to get to and deal with... which I think it is but, that's me.
Good luck for anyone doing this. You'll most likely need to remove the arm that supports the intake to the block to get it done. Give yourself some time for this one.
The stock 'sending unit' is an on/off 12V trigger. If there is less than something like 7.5psi, it turns on the oil light in the dash. It does not have the capability to send fluctuating readings.
I don't understand why anyone would put a Tee in this location. It's such a pain to get to in the first place... it's difficult to do one connection much less 3!... VDO (and I would think autometer) makes a 0-80 psi sending unit with a low level warning contact. Affix the stock wire to the warning contact and the signal wire contact to the gauge. That's it.
I had the threads on the sending unit recut by the place I buy this stuff from, www.nhspeedometer.com. They're fairly easy to work with. If you have a die-cut set, you can do it yourself. The adapter works, too.
I use RTV sensor-safe silicon on the threads despite what anyone else says about tapered threads. (which is what sending units generally have) I've replaced enough senders to know it works better than not. Also, if it's your first time doing this kind of thing, having to deal with a leak and trying to tighten this thing in its location is a real b****. This makes the oil filter look super easy to get to and deal with... which I think it is but, that's me.
Good luck for anyone doing this. You'll most likely need to remove the arm that supports the intake to the block to get it done. Give yourself some time for this one.
DiscreetSpeed
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
^^wrd pain in the arse
- :
- MP5T / 944
I understand what all of you are trying to say but it isn't as bad as you are making it out to be.
That hole is where I tapped the oil for my turbo. I used a 2" pipe thread extension then a T fitting. One half went to the stock sender and the other half has an aeroquip line on it. There is a bracket that is removable with four bolts. It oppens up the entire thing.
"Keep the faith...If you book them they will come" - Jim Morrison
That hole is where I tapped the oil for my turbo. I used a 2" pipe thread extension then a T fitting. One half went to the stock sender and the other half has an aeroquip line on it. There is a bracket that is removable with four bolts. It oppens up the entire thing.
"Keep the faith...If you book them they will come" - Jim Morrison
