installed single runner intake manifold on my mp5!

hey i just got the protege garage manifold and i was wondering if i had to torque
it out to mazda specs. if you do how many pounds did you torque it to? if you have any tips on installing the manifold it would help alot thanks!
2002 yellow p5
*obx headers
*corksport exhaust
*magnacor wires
*kartboy short shifter
*aem short ram
*apexi neo afc
*tein springs

around 15 to 25 foot pounds of torque. do not go too crazy with it.

do you have the apexi neo installed? if you do or going to, please make a thread about it and keep everybody updated. i would love to see that running in a protege!


Intake manifold News update:

ive been doing my homework and reading a book about how to tune engines because i wanted to figure out why my open and closed loop switch happens so late.

after reading about exactly how the ecu switches over from open to closed loop with a maf sensor, i figured out that not having vics or vtcs and replacing the 626 manifold i lost a little velocity, therefore the car not knowing when to do the switch.

the switch is based off rpm, load and velocity percentage. since i found this piece of information out, im trying to figure out a intake solution with this intake manifold. ill keep everyone up to date!
 
check the work shop manuel

I did my usual google search to find it and couldn't. But I did find a forum talking about it being gone:

http://www.astina gt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11009

Good thing I downloaded all them in anticipation of this happening!
 
I did my usual google search to find it and couldn't. But I did find a forum talking about it being gone:

http://www.astina gt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11009

Good thing I downloaded all them in anticipation of this happening!

yup downloaded it way back when. I uploaded it to the protege5.com forum also. But aMaff going delete the thread soon. Work Shop Manual V2.0
 
ok, peoples..... I don't really care about the gains that much..... come on, it's a 100 hp N/A 4-cyl. What I'm wondering is it as drivable in daily operations.... Stock motor. I'm just wanting to buy this manifold so I don't have to take the s*** out of the stocker and just bolt up the 626. My wife drives it daily and I don't want it to be a hassle for her to keep it idling or lose too much low end torque. Plz tell me everything.
 
Im sure the single runner manifold makes more peak power but there is no avoiding the fact that there will be less hp below the vics crossover point.

For daily driving im sure its fine as other mods can be done to make up the lost bottom end.

On a boosted car it makes alot more top end BUT i have personally seen it done on a MSP....only to go back to vics manifold a month later to get back more midrange power.

This was seen on the dyno however he has the papers not me.
 
Just read this whole thread. I would just like to say huge props to everyone involved. Very informative and well thought out posts on everyones' parts. I feel like I can definitely make a confident decision on what manifold to go with now.

I'd also like to hear what anyone has to say about the low range torque with the 626 manifold on a mostly stock car. jamesk, you have a ton of other stuff, including a lightened flywheel, so it'll be tough for you to gauge how the manifold affected the low range torque I'm sure, but if anyone has done this on an otherwise stock engine, I'd like to hear the results.

Thanks,
Mr. H
 
well thanks for the kind words first of all, now about the peformance. my low end is very good and so is my top end. but i have done a couple new things in order for that to happen.

the flywheel is deff. the big reason why. this manifold and the flywheel really brought my car to life.

my throttle response and "pull effect" on the car has increased alot because i installed a air fuel controller, and now everytime i hit the gas, the air fuel ratios are where they need to be.

i also just recently purchased a new intake set up. its got a big ass filter and a velocity funnel and i noticed a little difference from that (made the car louder actually). i also bought a high flow midpipe and a hks axleback.

this weekend i have to disconnect my battery to reset the ecu and check my air fuel ratios to make sure they are the same.

but overall im very happy with the peformance of my car. deff. not slow anymore.
 
darn I need to get a splitsecond afc and ur MAP. Then hopefully my car won't be slow anymore either. BTW u dyno yet?
 
well now that i found out you have an afc I know this isnt for me. Im willing to be the biggest reason you got good gains was because you dont have our crappy ecu running the entire show. Im sure with just intake header exhaust you could get a good gain with an afc.
 
you do not need a afc in order to buy this intake manifold. what happend with my car is after i installed the manifold, all my car did was get a little richer under open loop. thats it though. i just got a air fuel controller so i can get maximum potential out of my upgrades.
 
you do not need a afc in order to buy this intake manifold. what happend with my car is after i installed the manifold, all my car did was get a little richer under open loop. thats it though. i just got a air fuel controller so i can get maximum potential out of my upgrades.

I know but i honestly dont think this will get you far without an afc, even with supporting mods i have my doubts. If i spring for this (which wont happen till the tax rebate) ill fill everyone in because then id be running, intake, intake manifold, header, high flow midpipe, catback, udp and no afc
 
I know but i honestly dont think this will get you far without an afc, even with supporting mods i have my doubts. If i spring for this (which wont happen till the tax rebate) ill fill everyone in because then id be running, intake, intake manifold, header, high flow midpipe, catback, udp and no afc

by that logic you wont get any decent gains until you go to some form of after market management.

All the management is doing, is allowing maximum gains, not all the gains, that this manifold will give.

On the subject of "loss of low end power" etc... yes its true it probably wont have as much EXTREME low end punch, but the manifold has higher flow capacity, at higher velocities so for a minor reduction in horsepower from say 0 to 2500rpm, you achieve decent gains everywhere else.

In the NA game, you can't have it both ways - you sacrifice bottom end to get more power. Any mod that shifts the torque band further up the rev range will improve acceleration as it is more able to leverage gearing (i will try to add something to my engine calc spreadsheet to better illustrate this point) - so whilst it may feel like the car isn't as responsive, in real terms it is....

Its a good solid modification for anyone who has done the usual IHE mods on an NA FSDE and wants that little bit more.
 
i think this manifold is worth getting without a air fuel controlller. i had it on my car for about a month without one and i was still happy with the gain.
 
Hi kind of new here, but i have been wondering in modding the P5, but it seem i might chew more than i can't handle. sure having an intake and exhaust, but installing a free flowing manifold would mean more fuel.(No?). also bigger injectors, although i don't know what the capabilities of the OEM. also having a MP3 ecu might make a difference, but i don't want to take a change now that i have more than 120k miles.
 
Hi kind of new here, but i have been wondering in modding the P5, but it seem i might chew more than i can't handle. sure having an intake and exhaust, but installing a free flowing manifold would mean more fuel.(No?). also bigger injectors, although i don't know what the capabilities of the OEM. also having a MP3 ecu might make a difference, but i don't want to take a change now that i have more than 120k miles.

It will only burn more fuel when you get right into it... cruising you should notice no decrease in fuel economy.... infact you should get a marginal improvement in fuel economy.

....bare in mind that these things are lean on cruise, and pig rich under full load....it has been done like this deliberatly to provide maximum off power fuel economy, with maximum on power safety. This is why an aftermarket EMS is probably the best money you can spend, NA or otherwise - there is stacks of potential to unlock just by getting the AFRs nailed down - to say nothing about unlocking potential through improved timing.

You shouldn't need bigger injectors for mild NA builds - bigger injectors come into it when you either go turbo, or start running high NA engine speeds (because a larger injector will have to open less to deliver the correct amount of fuel per pulse, thus preventing the injectors from over-running at high RPM) - but if you plan on sticking to NA, and running even MILDLY increased redlines, the injectors are fine.
 
This is the way i see it.

Mazda had both the single runner manifold and the dual runner manifold available when they built the protege.

They know the difference the manifold makes in both low end and high end power. They chose to go with the dual runner design for the protege becasue it provides more power and a flatter power band where as the single runner provides more highend.

Dual runner is better for daily driving, more power below peak but has a lower peak

Single runner is better for high rpm driving and FI applications or all motor builds that flow alot more power then stock.

Someone with a stockish motor that upgrades to a single runner may find a noticable loss of low end and midrange power.



IF you decide to go to a single runner manifold you may want to get a lightened flywheel and lightened pullies to get back some of the lost low end.
 

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