Installed MS Lowering Springs

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11 MS3 Sport
I bought these earlier this summer, anticipating this as something i'd install next summer. Well, I can't have a set of parts just staring at me! So we decided to attempt this, especially after buying a new air compressor and air tools.

For those who don't know, the MAZDASPEED Lowering Springs are progressive springs rather than linear springs. Infact, they're considered the same as the Eibach ProKit springs. Being Progressive will mean that they will actually ride a little better while still being able to perform harder cornering better than stock.

A picture for comparison of the rear springs:
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The kit also comes with camber links for correction in rear alignment, but those were unfortunately not installed. I will install those later once I have access to a lift at my dad's shop.

Here's some before and after shots (they may not show a whole lot of improvement yet - the car hadn't moved, and the springs probably hadn't even settled at all. There was less room for the jack to come out from underneath the rockers, that's for sure.)

(pictures were brightened for more accurate portrayal of wheel gap)
BEFORE - REAR
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AFTER - REAR
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BEFORE - FRONT
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AFTER - FRONT
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I had some help from a more experienced local MI mazdaspeeder (Mazdaspeedster3). A couple PITA's we experienced:

-Endlink stuck (driver's side endlink bolt is totally stuck - WILL NOT come off, so i'm stuck buying a new one now)
-Trying to figure out which way the rear springs go (super compressed side up towards the top? Or bottom?)
-Realizing my exhaust leak is still there from my MSCBE -- there's soot near the stupid clamp involved in the install. Hasn't caused a problem though.
-Watching Bill tirelessly hammer away at my front steering knuckles (that took forever)
-HATING KOBALT AIR TOOLS (we seriously got screwed with a ****** up impact wrench that fought us the entire time. Made using the impact wrench WAY harder than it needed to. It would just vent air through the exhaust of the impact gun, rather than torque the living hell out of the spring compressor bolts. Took some serious patience and coaxing...what a joke!)
-Trying to properly line up the front springs then uncompress them and they uncompress wrong (top hat not lining up properly.)

Here's a question for those who have done this install before:
On the rear springs, MAZDASPEED is stamped on each spring. Facing upright, the spring has the tighter coils up top and the lighter coils on the bottom. Is this the proper way to install these springs? With the fronts, you can't screw it up. Small top, big bottom of the spring, it'll only fit one way. We installed them so they're facing upright, which positioned the spring with the more stretched coils towards the bottom, and the closely packed coils up top. Is this correct??

Otherwise, this really truely was a great mod. It really balanced the car out and felt "even". Steering felt more direct and precise rather than a bit of float involved. The car was flat and secure. I love it!
 
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Well glad you were able to get them on, even tho eibach says theirs dont settle they do so your car will probably drop a little more in the next month. lets see some full car pics! does this mean your door moldings are coming off now?
 
For those who don't know, the MAZDASPEED Lowering Springs are progressive springs rather than linear springs. Infact, they're considered the same as the Eibach ProKit springs. Being Progressive will mean that they will actually ride a little better while still being able to perform harder cornering better than stock.

Just because a spring is progressive rather than linear that doesn't translate to "being able to perfrom harder cornering better than stock."

Without even getting into the part about your overall spring rates changing, changing from linear to progressive simply means that your spings will allow small, high-frequency movements of the wheels in relation to the car's chassis more easily and the springs get progressively higher in spring rate as they become more compressed, rather than following a linear rate of compressibility.

This does not always lead to better handling, especially when nothing is done to address the changes that such alterations in spring rate require of the damper valving.

;)
 
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I ride the same setup (2-3k so far). You can definitely tell they're progressive as they absorb small road imperfections rather well. Then when I hit a medium sized dip, I can tell the springs become much stiffer. On medium to large bumps, I think the MS3 struts aren't dampening enough and the ride can get quite choppy/jarring at times on the rough Seattle roadways. I also notice that on the portions of I-5 highway where there are a lot of concrete connection junctions, the struts can't keep up going 65mph. My HID cutoff bounces up and down like crazy. I think the stock MS3 struts (mine have 9k miles on them - 3k with the springs) are on the soft side honestly for these springs. I'm curious to see how long the struts will hold up. Contemplating Koni Yellows now though anyways. Have to feed my craze although this is just the GF's car. I daily drive an A-Spec suspension TL and those highway bumps are barely noticeable after I installed the A-Spec factory tuned sport suspension.
 
Hell, the OEM dampers are on the soft side for even the OEM springs, so I can't say that any of that comes as a shock. (lol2)
 
If the air tool just vented air then the compressor wasnt pushing enough psi
i have a kobalt impact and it works great, i have a 150psi compressor though so i just turn it all the way to 120-140 and it rips s*** off no problem lol
 
Rule of thumb for spring installation: words go right-side-up (so you can read them).

That's right from Eibach (4th from the bottom).
 
Thanks Kane. I was just rolling the dice of logic and hoping that was right.

The max psi on the air gun said 90psi but when we turned the pressure up, itd work better. Either way, it doesn't have enough torque at all (350 ft-lbs) because it would take serious coaxing to compress the springs and decompress them.

Koni makes struts for our cars? I was always under the assumption there isn't a whole lot of after market available for strut choices.
 
The kit also comes with camber links for correction in rear alignment, but those were unfortunately not installed. I will install those later once I have access to a lift at my dad's shop.

You will find the camber link install the biggest pain. There's an evap pump that prevents removal of the passenger camber link bolt. Requires you to drop the subframe to move it out of the way (6 bolts + 1 screw I think). Much easier than trying to reach underneath and remove the darn thing by hand.
 
Well I spoke with the dealership and they will align the car up for me, and if it requires those camber links, they are going to install it for me. So we'll see. But yeah i've heard that it is a gigantic PITA.
 
Well I spoke with the dealership and they will align the car up for me, and if it requires those camber links, they are going to install it for me. So we'll see. But yeah i've heard that it is a gigantic PITA.

have them put on your FSB at the same time then too, it might work out good that way.
 
Eh, I don't know about the FSB. I'm seriously considering selling it. There was someone on the other forum who was interested in buying it.
 
Koni makes struts for our cars? I was always under the assumption there isn't a whole lot of after market available for strut choices.

Koni has struts/shocks that work on both MS3/MZ3. They're rebound adjustable for the yellow sports. Then they have the FSD's which are suppose to auto adjust. Protege Garage and TH Motorsports both carry them. They're between $600-650 shipped. Many will argue that you mind as well go directly to full coilovers, but since we already have springs, it seems like this is the cheapest route and would offer the best ride comfort. Bilstein also makes shock/struts for the Mazda3 which are also great but aren't rebound adjustable.
 
Interested in how these will hold up with the stock struts.

what did you pay for the MS springs (if you don't mind me asking)
 
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