I will contact arospeed monday and keep everyone updated
Impor Tuner Article on Hyper Ground-wires
- Thread starter Gro Harlem
- Start date
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
BlueMP5Dave
Member
- :
- 2005 Winning Blue RX-8
Thank you, Jrod for the article this reafirms my purchase. I can't wait to see how it works on a Protege. Hopefully I will have this kit in my greedy little paws next week. 
What exactly is being grounded?
Just the battery to the stock engine ground and chassis ground?
If so I don't remember enither of these grounds being raw meta, both had paint on them. This would hurt electric flow far more then anything else. Also These wires are using a crimp connector which is of most likely a worse quality then the stock ones and definitly worse then the wire.
Also our stock wiring is copper. I replaced all my grounds with 1/0 and saw no difference.
These also seem to be a very small guage, 8 and smaller.
Just the battery to the stock engine ground and chassis ground?
If so I don't remember enither of these grounds being raw meta, both had paint on them. This would hurt electric flow far more then anything else. Also These wires are using a crimp connector which is of most likely a worse quality then the stock ones and definitly worse then the wire.
Also our stock wiring is copper. I replaced all my grounds with 1/0 and saw no difference.
These also seem to be a very small guage, 8 and smaller.
BlueMP5Dave
Member
- :
- 2005 Winning Blue RX-8
Which kit were you speaking of 1st MP3? I see that the Arospeed kit has painted ends on the distro block. But, the hyper ground goes strait to the battery terminal in a daisy chain to the components ( i.e. to Exhaust manifold, Intake manifold, Engine block, Ignition coils, Head, or Transmission) and then one strait to the strut tower or to any part of your chassis. As for quality of kit ,I can't say I have not seen them yet except in the picture. Hopefully I will know this week.
7
70
So what do these things do, really?
--- edit ---
Ok, so I read the article, and I understand the concept some what. It seems like the whole "ignition wire" deal though. I'm not quite seeing how changing the grounding point will make a significant change in power.
Post results someone.
--- edit ---
Ok, so I read the article, and I understand the concept some what. It seems like the whole "ignition wire" deal though. I'm not quite seeing how changing the grounding point will make a significant change in power.
Post results someone.
Last edited by a moderator:
I think They are supposed to offer less resitance therfore releasing more hp. Dont quote me becuase I really am unsure on this
1st MP3 in NH said:
i see it as reducing the length of the path that the ground has to make to get back to the battery. for example: with your ignition system, the ground has to go through the coil, the plug wire, the plug, the head, the engine block, the tranny, then back up the grounding strap to get back to the battery. connect a grounding wire directly to the head, and that path is reduced by half.
i see you are a sound freak, right? do you get better performance out of your amp by grounding to the body next to the amp, or by running a ground back to the battery terminal?
OK now this makes some sense, but only if that path is a higher impedance than a short path, which if it goes through all that I would think it should be.
The amp ground length realy isn't that important so long as it isn't insanely long and is the same guage as the power. Many big install have fairly long grounds since they all, nomatter the amps loacations, go to one point.
The amp ground length realy isn't that important so long as it isn't insanely long and is the same guage as the power. Many big install have fairly long grounds since they all, nomatter the amps loacations, go to one point.
1st MP3 in NH said:
In the article they say that electricity flows on the outside of each strand of wire. Meaning, the more strtands the better, not the larger diameter the strand the better. This system uses over 1,400 strands of 99% copper. Other grounding systems use 300 or less strands. Also look at the picture, closely, and compare the wire size to the battery connector, they look to me about the same guage as battery cables.
Its resistance that limits flow. The only reason diameter is an issue is becuase as the amperage draw increases the the wire starts to show a resistance. The larger the wire the less resistance you get. Paint on the other had is always a resistance. I would think scraping the paint off the ground points would prove to be better then anything else besides welding the ground in place.
I'm not saying its BS, Just saying I don't understand it at all unless the factory ground is showing a resistance that is limiting electrical flow. Like I said the difference between .1 and .002 isn't going to net 6 WHP. maybe .6whp.
Shorter or should I say more direct paths for grounding makes the most sense but onl if they are of less resistance.
I'm not saying its BS, Just saying I don't understand it at all unless the factory ground is showing a resistance that is limiting electrical flow. Like I said the difference between .1 and .002 isn't going to net 6 WHP. maybe .6whp.
Shorter or should I say more direct paths for grounding makes the most sense but onl if they are of less resistance.
two wires of the same diameter, but sifferent lengths will have different resistance.
i have thought about performing this mod on my wife's civic ever since i heard of it. her car has one ground wire that goes from the battery to the body and is about 6 inches long. i can see this mod being very effective on her car.
i have thought about performing this mod on my wife's civic ever since i heard of it. her car has one ground wire that goes from the battery to the body and is about 6 inches long. i can see this mod being very effective on her car.