Idle, terrible humming while going 20+mph, please help

i also wanted to add power stearing to the title but it just would of been too long of a title...with that being said

i have owned this car for about 8 months now, ive had to replace the coil packs, ive done my tune ups and i still have these issues.....my car idles at 700rpms most of the time, but it will constently drop down to 500 or lower once at a complete stop or if im in stop and go traffic it will stay at 1,200 rpms. replaced coil packs 2 months ago and still have this issue.

I have a terrible humming///vibration coming out of my car, firestone swore it was my tires, so i just bought 4 new tires costing me almost 400 dollars and still same exact issue, just the vibrations decreased a bit....its worse when i turn right but still extreamly noticble when going straight, and decreases when i turn to the left....... just to give you something to base the noise off of...i had a dodge ram with 37 inch superswampers on it and it was quieter than my car is now.

and just today i got a terrible squealing sound coming out of my power stearing pump area, its on the left side of the engine, and when i turn the wheel the tubes will move very noticble and thats where the squealing is coming from, i just wanna know where to check power stearing at.


Thanks for reading, sorry about the whole essay
 
yeah the humming is pretty terrible, i used to work at discount tires i use to do all of the tire and wheel banacing and the guy did it correctly..... how would i test my wheel bearings? just place it on a jack and spin the wheels?
 
i also wanted to add power stearing to the title but it just would of been too long of a title...with that being said

i have owned this car for about 8 months now, ive had to replace the coil packs, ive done my tune ups and i still have these issues.....my car idles at 700rpms most of the time, but it will constently drop down to 500 or lower once at a complete stop or if im in stop and go traffic it will stay at 1,200 rpms. replaced coil packs 2 months ago and still have this issue.

I have a terrible humming///vibration coming out of my car, firestone swore it was my tires, so i just bought 4 new tires costing me almost 400 dollars and still same exact issue, just the vibrations decreased a bit....its worse when i turn right but still extreamly noticble when going straight, and decreases when i turn to the left....... just to give you something to base the noise off of...i had a dodge ram with 37 inch superswampers on it and it was quieter than my car is now.

and just today i got a terrible squealing sound coming out of my power stearing pump area, its on the left side of the engine, and when i turn the wheel the tubes will move very noticble and thats where the squealing is coming from, i just wanna know where to check power stearing at.

Thanks for reading, sorry about the whole essay

1. Clean your EGR and replace your spark plugs if that was not done with the coil packs. That should help the dropping idle.

2. The vibes sound like a bad wheel bearing. I would have a shop check that out. You can DIY if you know what you are doing.

3. Squealing as in a belt squeal? You may have a loose belt, or maybe your PS pump seized. Do you still have power steering?
 
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to check ur wheel bearings, jus put it up on a jack, and with it out of gear, jus put ur hands on it like a clock at 12 and 6. then try to move it bak and forth, if it moves, ur wheels bearings r bad. its hard to explain how to do it. if u dont know how to do it after i explained, get a shop to check it out. im not good at explaining things lol
 
Speeder, i cleaned EGR and replaced sparks when i had the idle issue along with the coil pack....whenever i put conventional oil in it it does it more times than when i had syntetic in it for about 2 months.....

Js Protege, whenever i move the wheel will i hear a griding or any audiable sounds that would give it away?

Fixed the power stearing issue, evidently i ran out...so now i get to check the lines once i put more fluid in it...

I really apprechate yalls help!!!


i live in Hawaii and parts and labor here is deff a sellers market cuz you cant get off the island!!!!!!!! its a rapefest when it comes to labor out here from 100 to 150 an hour
 
Subbing as well, still haven't figured out my noise. Sounds like a wheel bearing issue, same as mine. But I have been too lazy to get the car up on jacks to test. :(
 
For the record when checking bad wheel bearings- I had a bad bearing, but it was tough to tell from the wiggle test. The wheel didn't appear to have a lot of play in it, but I still had a bad bearing. The big giveaway with a bearing is noise and vibes that go away when you turn. If you have that, it's a bearing fo sho.
 
MazdaSpeeder, when i turn to the left it decreases the noise about 50% but if im going straight or to the right its deff alot more loud and noticble. idle wasnt an issue today, but im blaming it on cheap hawaii//military gas....water got into the gas here and ruined my gsx-r1000's fuel system.

i can move the right wheel like that just by kicking it...no stand needed... ive been reading up on forms on how to do it and i see alot of special tools that are needed but what else do i need to replace when i replace the bearing, do i have to do anything with a bearing housing? im not good at working on cars to well should i just take it to a shop?

once again THANKS!
 
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well i now get the luxury of biting hte bullet...my power stearing went out today... spewed all over the under carriage of my car and is out of my car before i can fill up the resivor..... nothings leaking from the pump or the lines that i can see from the upper part of my engine...

so i put it on a jack.... front left bearing is also really bad.... the right one not as bad..... but it only spews out when i turn the wheels to the right to make a right hand turn... going left nothing drips out. so

with that being said im taking it in to a shop tomorrow... and also having to get a credit card due to how im scared of the price tag on this... this sucks.
 
Here's the how-to for the fronts...if you have ABS it requires one more step. You have to take the fronts to a shop to get the bearings pressed in. The rears are apparently cake.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123746487

That's because the hub is integral with the bearing, so you just unbolt the old hub and pop a new unit on. I haven't heard of anyone having to replace their rear bearings tho, most likely because they don't have the weight of the engine resting on them.
 
bassplayer, re: the humming. Voice lessons should help.(rlaugh)

Seriously, welcome aboard.
 
New Mazda OEM front bearing cost me $76 at the dealer (I get a 30% discount on parts from parts manager buddy). $400 is ridiculous.
 
welcome to Hawaii!!! i called 3 local shops that arnt name brand such as firestone.... which is where i got the 400 dollar quote from. and they all said ill call you back tomorrow, but never called.

does anybody know where i could get a rack n pinon set from for under 500$$??

ThaNks
 

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